Your thoughts for the L1T/L2T V3.0

[MikeSalt]

I was one of the lucky ones, I managed to get my hands on the L1T V2.0 before they were discontinued. David had this to say on the matter...

3) L1T/L2T v2.0 is being discontinued due to a) lack of demand b) defect
rate of the switches is high. So they are not coming back until we source
better switches.

There has been a re-release of the V2.0s, but they have the reverse clickies, which are not my cup of tea at all.

So, when these better switches are sourced, what would you guys like to see featuring in the V3.0 (if it gets called that)? Which emitter? User interface? Levels of high/low modes? etc....

Please note, I am in no way affiliated with Fenix, so this is just for fun really.

Mike

 

[MikeSalt]

Well, to answer my own question. I think the user interface is spot-on. I would not change that for love nor money. I am more inclined to go for a Cree R2/R3/R4 emitter than a Rebel because Cree seem to reliably supply more LEDs with consistency. As for the levels, 120.0/1.0 lumen for the L1T and maybe 200.0/1.0 for the L2T. Also, diamond-chequered knurling instead of the mismatch of square-chequered and line-chequered of the V2.0. And of course, the Olive HA III option.

However, I must note that the switch on my L1T V2.0 has not failed. It is a little 'noisy', causing flickering if you hold the switch just right, but that is a minor irritation.

 

[OMNIHUGE]

Question about the L1T. I'm looking at the version 2.0 from fenix-store for my brother. My question is if the bezle is tightened all the way does it automatically turn on in high mode? Or do you have to twist the bezle after hitting the clicky to get into high mode?

 

[MikeSalt]

When the bezel is all the way tight, it automatically turns on in high. When it is loosened off slightly, it automatically turns on in low. And, even when it is turned on, you can adjust high/low on the fly. The high/low function is independant of the tailswitch.

 

[OMNIHUGE]

Thanks that's exactly what I wanted to know!

 

[NA8]

I'd like to see the turn on flash in Low go away, and a better LED for the L2T. The L1Tv2 isn't bad considering you get a pretty long run time with the rebel 80 (2:45 to 50% with a big NiMH). I wouldn't mind the Low reduced a little to get about 20 hrs runtime, but I'd like some thing more in the 5-10 lumen range.

 

[manoloco]

i like my L1T v2, add knurling and it would be better, however fenix, having a fairly good consumer base, should start offering a variety of tailcaps and switches, i would like to have 2, the forward clickie from the first run of L1Ts, and something that works like a surefire L1 (from the characteristics it looks like a very useful switch, i dont have an L1)

stronger aluminum too perhaps?, square section threads... i would buy an L1 cree, problem is, i like to use rechargables, without risking the flashlight.

 

[bfg9000]

4-die SSC P7. And much lower low.

 

[KeyGrip]

I'm going to have to run with the herd on this one. I really liked the LxT V.2 lights except for the smooth body. At least put knurling on the head so it's easier to grip when changing modes. 3-5 Lumen low and 80-100 lumen high are very possible, and would make for a practical balance of output and runtime.

 

[MikeSalt]

4-die SSC P7. And much lower low.

What is that?:thinking:

 

[TexLite]

What is that?:thinking:

This is what bfg9000's referring to, http://www.ledstyles.de/download.php?id=2343

...and here, http://www.elecom.kiev.ua/full_news_ind.php#77

lukestephens777 has started a thread here,
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=188451

Looks promising....

As far as the LxT v2.0,I had purchased one with intent of removing the Rebel emitter and replacing in with a R2 Cree now,and an R4 later when there available.After I got the light though,I was so pleased with the tint and output that I elected to leave this particular one alone,and buy a couple more to mod.It has actually become my EDC.The forward clickie is sloppy in use,but the design is good.I would improve the switch and leave the design alone.As far as output,these throw really well.Even with a textured reflector,it easily shines as far(maybe better)than a smooth reflector LxD CE,but without the rings.The beam is as good or better than the Luxeon MKII,which I like for beam profile,but not output.The output is noticeably and measureably brighter than the LxD CE P4 as well.The machining however left a LOT to be desired,the poorest of all the Fenix's I've owned.I hope this isnt a trend with Fenix. I'll leave the body feature/design for others to comment on.

Conclusion:
Keep the tailcap(forward),but improve the switch.
Like the output levels,regulation,and runtime
Like the simple interface
Like the longer runtime the low vf Rebel gives
Improve the machining and quality,without a price increase
Use a higher grade aluminum(see note at bottom)

Will have to reserve judgement on the emitter untill I get around to swapping some out for the Crees.

Michael



Would like to add:
Use a higher grade(read:harder)aluminum,the aluminum on all the Fenix's I've owned is so soft it is reasonably easy to deform.I have found the anodizing is fairly durable abrasive wise,but any drop or hard contact and the metal will nick or deform easily under the anodizing,making the hardness of the anodizing irrevelant.I've also had the threads in two heads "pull",which is highly aggravating.