Zebralight SC52 Owner's Thread

[ScottFree]

Hopefully my SC52 will arrive on Thursday (dispatch Wednesday) and I can't wait, but I have a small question as this is my first Zebralight. The primary cells I'll run the ZL on will be Energizer Lithium's but is there any difference, large and small between the performance aspects between lithiums and Eneloops in the light?.

 

[Lighthouse one]

THe lithium's are slightly brighter-but only at the high Mode 1. I'm very happy with how bight the light is on eneloops...or even cheap 1.5 volt alkaline batteries. This is such a versatile light. I only use the 14500 lion for a bit of showing off for friends...

 

[Mojer]

THe lithium's are slightly brighter-but only at the high Mode 1. I'm very happy with how bight the light is on eneloops...or even cheap 1.5 volt alkaline batteries. This is such a versatile light. I only use the 14500 lion for a bit of showing off for friends...

Any reason why you only use the 14500's when showing off to friends and not all the time?

 

[brightasday]

Anyone have an issue with the parasitic drain being non-negligible? Mine seems to use quite a bit of power when not in use. For example, a new alkaline AA with a voltage of 1.604, after ~48 hours in the SC52 had a voltage of 1.497. I didn't use the SC52 during that time. 14500s also seem to use quite a bit of power.

 

[henry1960]

Any reason why you only use the 14500's when showing off to friends and not all the time?

Run Times i would amagine would be the main reason..On a eneloop you get aproximatly 2000 mah, 14500 aw 750mah...Big diffrence in runtimes and the only addvatage is turbo 500lm...I do have the sanyo 840mah which gives 10-15% more runtime approx.
So mainly i use eneloops my self...

 

[Fireclaw18]

Run Times i would amagine would be the main reason..On a eneloop you get aproximatly 2000 mah, 14500 aw 750mah...Big diffrence in runtimes and the only addvatage is turbo 500lm...I do have the sanyo 840mah which gives 10-15% more runtime approx.
So mainly i use eneloops my self...

My understanding is that to check runtimes at the same brightness you multiply the voltage by the Mah. a 1.5v 2000 Mah eneloop gives slightly less theoretical runtime than a 3.7v 840 Mah Sanyo lithium.

 

[moozooh]

Eneloops are 1.2 v, not 1.5 v. So eneloop is 2.4 watt-hours, ZL 14500 is 3.1 watt-hour. A difference of almost 30%.

 

[Wiggle]

Run Times i would amagine would be the main reason..On a eneloop you get aproximatly 2000 mah, 14500 aw 750mah...Big diffrence in runtimes and the only addvatage is turbo 500lm...I do have the sanyo 840mah which gives 10-15% more runtime approx.
So mainly i use eneloops my self...

My own quick runtime tests showed almost identical runtimes between a ZL14500 and a Duraloop on the two highest modes. Li-ion is easier to top off, noticeably lighter and has the 500 lumen burst. Also unlike other lights compatible with AA, you get proper low-battery stepdown, battery checking ability and all low modes with the Li-ion in the SC52.

On my only other light that I can test identical modes of Li-ion vs NiMH (my Quark AA) the 14500 would win on the high for runtime. It lost on max but not surprising considering that it has 80% more output in this mode, high is the fair comparison since the outputs are matched. This says to me that the ZLs AA circuit is better than most (which I think alot of people already knew). This light would not step-down though as the 14500 depleted, therefore it was full output and a sudden lights out.

Bottomline: ZLs AA performance is awesome but 14500 matches it and provides some perks.

 

[reppans]

My own quick runtime tests showed almost identical runtimes between a ZL14500 and a Duraloop on the two highest modes. Li-ion is easier to top off, noticeably lighter and has the 500 lumen burst. Also unlike other lights compatible with AA, you get proper low-battery stepdown, battery checking ability and all low modes with the Li-ion in the SC52.

On my only other light that I can test identical modes of Li-ion vs NiMH (my Quark AA) the 14500 would win on the high for runtime. It lost on max but not surprising considering that it has 80% more output in this mode, high is the fair comparison since the outputs are matched. This says to me that the ZLs AA circuit is better than most (which I think alot of people already knew). This light would not step-down though as the 14500 depleted, therefore it was full output and a sudden lights out.

Bottomline: ZLs AA performance is awesome but 14500 matches it and provides some perks.

I've mentioned this in the other thread, but from what I can tell, the SC52's battery meter seems to be geared for ICR Li-ions. It will indicate weak battery and automatically step the light down at ~3.7V resting - which, for a typical ICR is 80-90% depleted, and a good cut-off level.

The problem is that the light may not work well with a broader range of Li-ions since some ICRs (eg, my Eagletac's) and other Li-ion chemistries (IMR, IFR) may only be half depleted (or still fully charged) at 3.7V when the light starts to automatically step-down... ie, you lose high way too early.

Still waiting confirmation from other users though, only one other person has indicated his concern with this, but with no testing behind it.

(EDIT... just noticed, your step-down function is not working? ie, so you tripped the battery protection circuit when it went lights out?)

As far as ZL having a better circuit, I don't buy it either...or at least anything near what the difference in manufacturer specs would suggest.

I have the Quark AAX, and Eagletac D25A clicky (which I consider to be the SC52s closest competitors), and both with XML emitters, they are spec'd pretty close to each other on Eneloops. I have tested them with a DSLR lumen meter and have also run random runtime tests on the lower modes and found them to be pretty close to each other and true enough to their manufacturer specs.

Comparing the SC52, first off, the ZL lumen scale is at least 30% off the other two companies (Thrunite too) and Selfbuilt's test of the Quark AA2X, D25 series (Neutron 1A too) confirm this as well - don't know who's too conservative and who's too liberal, but of the 4 moonlight mode/AA companies I collect from, ZL stands alone.

Even considering the 30% scale difference, which is essentially imperceptible to the naked-eye, I was really looking forward to getting two to three times the QAAX runtimes on moonlight and low - the spec'd runtime difference between the manufacturers - on what are, by far, my most often used modes. Instead what I got was a one-half to one-third the measured lumen levels, on what should be the same levels as stated by the manufacturers. So, in terms of lumen-hours, both are equally efficient, with the ET right there as well, with almost the same lumen levels.

Even by ZL's own liberal scale, all my L modes are off by a mile, so perhaps I have a defective unit. That would make my defect rate 2 for 2 within ZL lights and 3 for 25+ for all my purchases.

It will be interesting to see the SC52 output/runtime graphs when Selfbuilt finishes his review of the light. Too bad he only tests the higher modes, and will not have a QAAX, or D25A clicky in his tests. The Neutron 1A should be though.

 

[ganzo]

I just have recieved it today. For me it's an avesome light because it has much wider hotspot than sc50w+. No green tint and a well-centered led is a plus. As far I can see, there is no difference between H1,H2 and H3 modes with Duracell AA.

 

[violatorjf]

I'm impressed by the size and output. In the pic below you can see it being dwarfed by my Ontario RAT1 pocket knife and my Streamlight Stylus Pro 2AAA. I enjoy having the really low lows available if necessary. I have my low set on the 0.34lm level right now, which lasts for something like 3wks. Loving it so far...

 

[Wiggle]

I've mentioned this in the other thread, but from what I can tell, the SC52's battery meter seems to be geared for ICR Li-ions. It will indicate weak battery and automatically step the light down at ~3.7V resting - which, for a typical ICR is 80-90% depleted, and a good cut-off level.

...
Still waiting confirmation from other users though, only one other person has indicated his concern with this, but with no testing behind it.

Ah yes, I could see this being an issue for those users. In my use it seems to work fine.

(EDIT... just noticed, your step-down function is not working? ie, so you tripped the battery protection circuit when it went lights out?)

No no I mean on my only other truly AA/14500 compatible light, the Quark, I had the lights out scenario. ZL SC52 steps me down instead.

As far as ZL having a better circuit, I don't buy it either...or at least anything near what the difference in manufacturer specs would suggest.

Regardless of how you think the light stacks up to the competition in exact lumen numbers, I meant moreso the light operates efficienctly with AA compared to 14500. As you probably know, AA and 14500 cells have comparable amounts of energy but typically lights are less efficient with AA as a result of the step up from 1.2/1.5V to Vf range (3.0+) being usually more lossy than a step down from 3.7V. I was pointing out that the ZL performed equally well with the NiMH as the 14500 at the same brightness setting (H2 - 172 lumens). To me this is an achievement because compare that to the Quark where you take quite a hit with Eneloop at a matched brightness level (in this case high). This tells me the Zebralight AA boost circuit is a good performer. Selfbuilts previous review of the SC51 along with the output graphs show this high performance is possible.

Regarding the overall lumen values, that'll have to be confirmed. I will trust selfbuilts analysis.

 

[Wiggle]

I just have recieved it today. For me it's an avesome light because it has much wider hotspot than sc50w+. No green tint and a well-centered led is a plus. As far I can see, there is no difference between H1,H2 and H3 modes with Duracell AA.

You need to use a better battery! Alkaline will sag too much with those higher modes.

 

[itsme1234]

Anyone have an issue with the parasitic drain being non-negligible? Mine seems to use quite a bit of power when not in use. For example, a new alkaline AA with a voltage of 1.604, after ~48 hours in the SC52 had a voltage of 1.497. I didn't use the SC52 during that time. 14500s also seem to use quite a bit of power.

When you insert the battery there's a short burst of light and probably some power is used as the light "reboots". But probably this isn't it; I think the way would be to measure directly the current, maybe over a long time (in case it does something extremely sneaky as waking up periodically. An alkaline going to 1.497V means for me nothing, is just too much "in the noise" to be a reliable indication of energy used, it depends on the chemistry, temperature, etc. I have a CR2032 (no other primary cell at hand to test) that drops 3.11->3.07 just by touching both sides with my fingers.

 

[PocketBeam]

Anodizing failing and clip abrasion

I used to edc H51 in the same pocket as I now carry the SC52. After just two days I noticed the anodizing has scraped off the lower edge next to the button. It is right on the lower edge, it is about half a cm wide, 1/4 inch, and looks like the edge was filed down. I carried the H51 in the same pocket for many months without a problem. I also carry a leatherman juice pro in the same pocket.

I think this happened because the button depression is bigger on the SC52 versus the reflector depression on the H51, which is in the same spot as the button. Also the edge around the button on the SC52 is sharper. It almost feels sharp enough to cut things.

Once I noticed this, I switched pockets for the SC52, same I have to be delicate with it. After one day, using it three or four times, I notice obvious wear on the top edge of that new pocket. Feeling where the clip screws in, there is a raised ring that goes all around, that area also feels sharp. I bet that raised ring edge is digging in and scrapping away my pocket.

So the anodizing is scraping away, and the pocket clip is scraping away my pocket. Once again I did not have these issues with the H51. And keep in mind they are different, but the button on the SC52 is in the same spot as the reflector on the H51.

Otherwise I love this light. I find the H version is better for sitting down or clipping and aiming the light. But this is crazy bright, and great modes and ui. And for the record, the led is centered, it is slightly green but only if you really look and can see slight color shades. No noticed parasitic drain. (Sent from Android)

 

[cyclesport]

Re: Anodizing failing and clip abrasion

^

I agree...it's not the most pocket friendly EDC light, as a few pairs of my pants/jeans are starting to show wear. Ano's still intact on mine though?

 

[Wiggle]

Re: Anodizing failing and clip abrasion

^

I agree...it's not the most pocket friendly EDC light, as a few pairs of my pants/jeans are starting to show wear. Ano's still intact on mine though?

Any methods to soften up the clip pinch point a little? I pocket carry it loose for now but like the security of the clip, however I feel like it will shred my pockets.

 

[cognitivefun]

Re: Anodizing failing and clip abrasion

I do like this light a LOT. I got one for my daughter also. I gave her a lithium AA Ultimate battery as she isn't one to charge things, and that should last awhile the way she'll use it. I drives quite well from that battery. I am using an Eneloop in mine.

One thing I don't really care for is a side switch. The reason is, you have to turn the light around to find the switch when you take it out of your pocket. I kind of prefer the tactical buttons because they're always there

 

[cyclesport]

Re: Anodizing failing and clip abrasion

Any methods to soften up the clip pinch point a little? I pocket carry it loose for now but like the security of the clip, however I feel like it will shred my pockets.

Other than removing the clip and attempting to bend it a little to ease the contact point(s), which I would personally would be hesitant to do since that would require more finesse than my skill set allows, I'm not sure. IMO I think the unique shape and several sharp points and acute angles of this light also contribute to accelerated clothing wear...in general, still liking the light a lot though!

 

[Mr460mag]

Unless I miss something completely SC52 isn't angled so it needs a much more complicated mount for what I want.
I'm considering duct taping it to a gopro head mount camera but I would like something similar and standalone.

I use the Fenix headband with a 4sevens mini 123 on the right side. Maybe it will work with the sc52 also. I have no problems with shadows, even if it is side mounted. You get two flashlight mounts with the fenix headband, but I only use one.