Zebralight SC52 & SC52w

[size=5]Are you looking into :thinking: buying the Zebralight [b]SC52[/b]?[/size]

  • [size=3][b]Yes[/b], i pre-ordered it! :nana:[/size]

    Votes: 74 17.7%
  • [size=3][b]Yes[/b], i ordered it. :grin2:[/size]

    Votes: 114 27.3%
  • [size=3][b]Yes[/b], i [i]am[/i] going to order it sooner or later. Count me in yet! :santa:[/size]

    Votes: 140 33.5%
  • [size=3][b]Yes[/b], but i am not too sure about it, neither now nor in future. :shrug:[/size]

    Votes: 62 14.8%
  • [size=3][b]Yes[/b], but most likely it's [b]not[/b] gonna happen for some reason. :sigh:[/size]

    Votes: 28 6.7%

  • Total voters
    418

HikingMano

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Dec 23, 2009
Messages
59
[...]Our eyes can more easily see the green at lower output, simply because our photoreceptors aren't overpowered by bright light, washing out the subtle tints.[...]

No, I don't think the photoreceptors are saturated; I view the light on the white wall at a distance, so absolute input is probably in the same range given the distance, relative to viewing reflected light at a lower output level at close range.

On low looking at a white surface at close range --> apparent green tint.

On high looking at white surface from across the room --> much less discernible green tint

I don't have an opinion on whether it's visual processing or hardware-dependent... just reporting empirical observation. I'd be interested if someone produces some relevant peer-reviewed lit though.

Very true! If my SC52w was a 1-mode light at only 280 lumens, I never would have complained about the tint. At that level it appears much closer to white or some of the better NW lights I have. On any of the middle settings, forget it...puke green. Is it the actual LED or my eyes? Don't know, don't care.

Agreed:thumbsup:

ETA: To an extent anyway, I mean, somehow some LEDs are able to stay white at both low and high levels, so it must at least be partially independent of visual processing?
 
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Etsu

Enlightened
Joined
Jul 1, 2013
Messages
783
If all my lights only worked at their highest output I'd be much less picky about tint.

Then choose lights that use PWM at lower levels. Problem solved. (If you really believe that current is the only determining factor in perceiving tint. I bet after you try out a few PWM lights, you'll change your mind.)
 

kaichu dento

Flashaholic
Joined
Apr 5, 2008
Messages
6,554
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Then choose lights that use PWM at lower levels. Problem solved. (If you really believe that current is the only determining factor in perceiving tint. I bet after you try out a few PWM lights, you'll change your mind.)
Your post is complete and utter nonsense and has nothing to do with the one of mine you were attempting to respond to.
 

Impulses

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jan 20, 2014
Messages
35
Location
Puerto Rico
Really? They're so similar in practice... I mean sure, the D40A has mode memory and two buttons, but both lights let you jump to max or moonlight from off and cycle pretty logically. Both have nicely spaced modes too. I love both, wouldn't replace either, just wish both were cheaper so I could have multiples as secondary lights! (my S15 & E03 fill that role alright for the price)

Amazing UI, makes so much more sense than D40A UI. Especially i like long press and that it always starts from low to high. I like this flashlight so much that i'm actually looking for opportunities to use it more :) Also feels like sc52 l2 has good heat transfer from led to body. Anyway, now i'm a fan of zebralight. Eventually going to replace D40A or simply add sc600 mk2, sadly not anytime soon. Not that easy to sell a flashlight in Japan.
 

bgm307

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Dec 12, 2013
Messages
16
I replaced mine with a Nitecore Titanium clip, does the job perfectly now.

Do the holes on the Nitecore clip line up with the holes on the SC52? I just got my SC 52 L2 yesterday. It's really almost perfect. I just don't like the chrome clip very much.
 

pjandyho

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 29, 2003
Messages
5,500
Location
Singapore
Do the holes on the Nitecore clip line up with the holes on the SC52? I just got my SC 52 L2 yesterday. It's really almost perfect. I just don't like the chrome clip very much.
If you don't like the chrome clip, you can always brush it with a scotch-brite. Keep brushing in one direction lengthwise for consistency.
 

kreisl

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
2,244
Do the holes on the Nitecore clip line up with the holes on the SC52? I just got my SC 52 L2 yesterday. It's really almost perfect. I just don't like the chrome clip very much.

Foursevens Deep Carry pocket clip miraculously fits on the TX25C2 (and the D25LC2) but not on the T20C2.

Nitcore titanium clip installed on SC52, beautiful fit and function!
 

Etsu

Enlightened
Joined
Jul 1, 2013
Messages
783
Your post is complete and utter nonsense and has nothing to do with the one of mine you were attempting to respond to.

Okay, then let me go through it again with footnotes so you will understand:

You said,

If all my lights only worked at their highest output I'd be much less picky about tint. Not completely unconcerned, but much less so than at present.

And I responded,

Then choose lights that use PWM at lower levels. Problem solved. (If you really believe that current is the only determining factor in perceiving tint. I bet after you try out a few PWM lights, you'll change your mind.)


Okay, now here's the point you're missing: PWM operates your light on high all the time, regardless of what setting you have it at. It just flashes high on-and-off very quickly. No tint shift from operating at a low current. Your problem is solved! You're welcome.

Oh, if you really want an easier solution, just use your lights on high and don't ever put them on low. I'm guessing you already figured that one out, though.
 

fridgemagnet

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Dec 31, 2013
Messages
54
Location
West Cork Ireland
Hang on - that does not compute...PWM flashes on & off at full power - agreed.
But the led has to come up to temperature, be at full power, and go down in temperature, so it will run through whatever range of tints it has in it's arsenal.
How long it spends in the intermediate states I have no idea, but nothing happens instantaneously.
 

Fireclaw18

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 16, 2011
Messages
2,408
Hang on - that does not compute...PWM flashes on & off at full power - agreed.
But the led has to come up to temperature, be at full power, and go down in temperature, so it will run through whatever range of tints it has in it's arsenal.
How long it spends in the intermediate states I have no idea, but nothing happens instantaneously.

One of the advantages I recall about LEDs is that unlike other types of lights there's no warmup time. If you put full power through them they light up instantly at full power. So they don't go through a range of tints when you have a PWM light cycling on and off hundreds of times a second. This is one reason PWM is even possible. Other types of lighting methods (incandescent, fluorescent) have warmup times so can't use PWM.

If the LED is run heavily wtihout proper heatsinking, it will heat up and output may decrease... but this is something that happens much more gradually. It doesn't go from fully hot to fully cold at the PWM cycle rate.

For flashlights:
Advantages of PWM:
1. No tint-shift. Many LEDs tend to shift towards green as you lower the current. My SC600 gives a beautiful white tint at max power and an ugly greenish tint at lower modes. In contrast, with a PWM light you get the same great tint at all levels. If tint matters to you and you run at lower power settings a lot this can be a big advantage in favor of PWM.

Advantages of Current Control

2. More efficient - LEDs get more efficent at producing light when run at lower current. At max power both the PWM light and the current control light have the same efficiency. At lower power settings, current control pulls ahead. At very low power settings it can be twice as efficient as PWM, giving you twice the runtime.

3. No whine - depending on the frequency of the PWM, you may get an audible whining sound from the driver. At 9.4 khz, a Nanjg 105c produces an audible while on medium modes. However, if you set the firmware to faster 16 khz PWM the problem is solved and there's no audible whine on any mode.

4. No uncomfortable strobing effect when compared to slow PWM. - very slow PWM is visible to the eye and produces an uncomfortable strobing effect. This problem is easily solved by using faster PWM that's too fast for the eye to see. Good quality PWM lights all use fast PWM.

Personally, I'm a tint fanatic and a I hate green tint. I don't need the super-long low-mode runtimes that current control provides. As such, I tend to prefer lights with fast PWM over lights with current control.
 

rexet

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Sep 21, 2012
Messages
41
My SC52w L2 just arrived this morning (order placed on the 21st of March, it was on "back order" at this time, shipped on the 4th of April and arrived on the 19th by Airmail). This is a really nice flashlight with a good output regarding its size.
The tint is really warm, more yellow than my SC600w MKII L2. The switch is kind of too soft compared to the SC600 which has a really distinct clic.
But I'm quite happy of my purchase :)

zebralight_sc600w_sc52w.png
 
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kaichu dento

Flashaholic
Joined
Apr 5, 2008
Messages
6,554
Location
現在の世界
...here's the point you're missing: PWM operates your light on high all the time, regardless of what setting you have it at. It just flashes high on-and-off very quickly. No tint shift from operating at a low current. Your problem is solved! You're welcome.

Oh, if you really want an easier solution, just use your lights on high and don't ever put them on low. I'm guessing you already figured that one out, though.
Here's what you're missing; I made a statement regarding tint and how I'd be less picky if my lights only had one output level and you made the mistake of deciding that you understood more about my tint preference than you possibly could, unless you'd read any of my posts in the past saying that I wish that emitters put out warmer tints at higher levels and cooler tints at lower levels.

Your closing statement is completely meaningless, again.

No one buys a Zebralight to use at one level only and the lowest levels being what I use the most at particular times places them very high on my list of priorities.

We've got different tastes in lights and while your solutions may be ideal for you, they're useless for me.
 

adras

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Apr 22, 2014
Messages
8
I'd really love to order one, but on the zebralight webpage it says: back order. Should I place the order anyway, and hope it get's delivered within a week or so, or should I wait?
 

thedoc007

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 16, 2013
Messages
3,632
Location
Michigan, USA
I'd really love to order one, but on the zebralight webpage it says: back order. Should I place the order anyway, and hope it get's delivered within a week or so, or should I wait?

You must be an optimist...if you need it in a week, forget about ordering it direct from Zebralight. Almost no chance it will arrive on time...it could be a couple MONTHS.

If you know you want the light, no matter when it comes, then go ahead and reserve your spot by placing an order now. But as to getting it soon, forget about it.
 

jimboutilier

Enlightened
Joined
Jul 21, 2013
Messages
395
Location
Denver CO USA
I'd really love to order one, but on the zebralight webpage it says: back order. Should I place the order anyway, and hope it get's delivered within a week or so, or should I wait?

A few minutes ago E2FieldGear still listed SC52L2CW in stock. Ordered a couple on Sunday, they shipped yesterday and should be here on Thursday. I've been happy with them before and have gotten items no one else appeared to have at the time.
 

adras

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Apr 22, 2014
Messages
8
A few minutes ago E2FieldGear still listed SC52L2CW in stock. Ordered a couple on Sunday, they shipped yesterday and should be here on Thursday. I've been happy with them before and have gotten items no one else appeared to have at the time.

Just got a reply back from zebralight support. They said current lead time is 2-3 weeks. As I usually order things from china I'm used to waiting. Order is placed, let's see how long it takes
 

whoofit

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Feb 15, 2014
Messages
10
I don't see "potted and sealed" in the product description. Not sure this is the latest version?
 

LEDburn

Enlightened
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
265
I don't see "potted and sealed" in the product description. Not sure this is the latest version?

I really doubt anyone had left over stock from the "non-L2" batch.
Also, seeing as the SC52w already had an XM-L2 and the output hasn't changed, it makes sense that they didn't see the need to update the page or have simply overlooked the changes.
They have stated it has the new UI which would make it an L2 (which the product is listed as) and therefore it would also be potted and sealed…
 

shelm

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 8, 2011
Messages
2,047
i've seen driver disassemblies and lemme tell you the driver is most definitely not potted :)
 

LEDburn

Enlightened
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
265
i've seen driver disassemblies and lemme tell you the driver is most definitely not potted :)

You have, have you?

You have literally seen all the electronics removed from a newer model ZL?

Only recently were the lights potted and sealed. The only pics of disassembly that I have seen are from well before ZL ever claimed that so unless you have recently seen one, and have pics, then we'll just leave your comment in the speculation bin where it belongs.
 
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