I have all flat-topped 18650's, mostly laptop salvaged cells. If I were to have this light now (which I don't, I have the H60 and others), what I would do, given that I KNOW how to solder WELL, is add my own button to the top of the cell. I don't trust running the magnets in most lights, and looking at the exposed components, I would not in this one.
How I would do this is to clean the center of the positive battery terminal thoroughly, including light scuffing with fine sandpaper. Apply a THIN film of rosin flux to this, only at the center for about 1/8" to 3/16" diameter. Then take a well dressed, hot soldering iron tip, wiped on a wet sponge to remove oxidation, and load it fairly well with solder, and apply it to the center of the battery. If you have prepped it correctly, the solder will tin to the battery top and flow on almost instantly, without transfering enough heat to the battery to do damage. If it does not, QUIT, or you WILL transfer enough heat to the battery to do damage.
The resulting blob of solder will solve the issues in this light, and if it ends up too high, don't worry, just let it cool that way and file it down to a reasonable height, it is fairly soft and goes fast.
This is a pretty contraversial technique, applying heat to a Li-Ion, and should not be attempted if you are not an experienced solderer. But if you spend VERY little time with the molten solder on the top of the battery, it can be done safely. I will repeat, if it does not tin out almost IMMEDIATELY, QUIT and let it cool.
Alternatively, you could do exactly the same thing to the brass contact in the head of the light. But due to the way ZL's are made, you would need one very long, skinny soldering iron, and it would be a little like building a ship in a bottle. But if you can reach it, that is the safest cure for the issue.