Zebralight SC600w IV Plus

markr6

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I ordered the SC600W plus and I was not thrilled with it. It is very floody. To floody for my taste, although the amount of light it puts out is enormous.

I then ordered the SC 600 hi and I have been thrilled with it. Throws great and has a great balance of spill. It is the light that I have been searching for for a long time. If you like a throw light this is the one to carry.

I was always more of a flood person, but surprisingly I found the HI to be a pretty good general use light too. And great as a mini thrower outdoors. I liked it so much I never re-purchased the standard SC600III/IV (I had the III and it was nice, but didn't feel the need for both).

A throwier light can make do up close, but a floody light can't make do for distance after a certain point even on H1.
 

Fireclaw18

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I have an SC600w III HI. Great light, but I found it unpleasant for up-close use. The spotlight was too narrow and too distracting. Great light for medium distance, but not great for short range.

I find the SC600w IV Plus to be much superior for close up. Both the spot and spill are much brighter and it seems to have plenty of runtime in turbo before heat causes any noticeable stepdown. I'm very impressed with this light.
 

holygeez03

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These past few posts would be better off in the "Plus vs. HI" thread...

I went ahead and ordered a MKIV HI to compare with my Plus.
 

jflip

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Any SC600w IV Plus owners happen to have a Thrunite T10?

The T10 is my ideal spill+spot beam and am wondering if the IV Plus' 14° hot spot is floody enough.
 

SergiT

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Hi.
In my sc600 IV Plus, in H1 after 15 or 20 seconds, it changes to M1.
Should not lower the intensity alone instead of changing the mode?
Is it normal or is it some kind of failure?
Thanks and sorry for my english.
 

Connor

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@SergiT
Most likely you are using a battery that's not able to deliver enough amps and that drops in voltage so much that your Zebralight steps down.
Use a Sanyo NCR18650GA or Sony VTC6.
 

SergiT

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@SergiT
Most likely you are using a battery that's not able to deliver enough amps and that drops in voltage so much that your Zebralight steps down.
Use a Sanyo NCR18650GA or Sony VTC6.
I already use only Sony VTC6 and Samsung 30Q.
 

Connor

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If these batteries work OK in other lights something may be wrong with your Zebralight. :( It shouldn't step down like that with good batteries.
 

SergiT

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If these batteries work OK in other lights something may be wrong with your Zebralight. :( It shouldn't step down like that with good batteries.
Ok. Thanks. I will check these batteries on other light.
 

markr6

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These past few posts would be better off in the "Plus vs. HI" thread...

With 1942.2 Zebralight threads, I've pretty much given up. Relevant enough I guess. If SC5x format talk pops up, then we're clearly off track...maybe.
 

ieslei

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Hi, guys! My sc600 mk4 plus just arrived, its very bright, bigger than my sc63w but its worth it IMHO!
I think i am having a problem with it. On the highest the head gets very hot, impossible to hold. I afraid this amount heat can harm the LED... Its weird because i have sc63w and the head doesnt get that hot, only very warm(but holdable) on the +5C setting... on the sc600 iv plus i tried to decrease 5C degrees, the PID kicks in after a few seconds but its very hard to hold the flashlight. That happens to everyone? Considering that the body reaches that temperature i am wondering the LED...

Tks
 
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WalkIntoTheLight

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Hi, guys! My sc600 mk4 plus just arrived, its very bright, bigger than my sc63w but its worth it IMHO!
I think i am having a problem with it. On the highest the head gets very hot, impossible to hold. I afraid this amount heat can harm the LED... Its weird because i have sc63w and the head doesnt get that hot, only very warm(but holdable) on the +5C setting... on the sc600 iv plus i tried to decrease 5C degrees, the PID kicks in after a few seconds but its very hard to hold the flashlight. That happens to everyone? Considering that the body reaches that temperature i am wondering the LED...

It's normal for it to get pretty hot. If you say the PID is kicking in, then it's probably working properly. If the PID is doing its job, it should eventually drop down to about 600 lumens if you leave it tail-standing by itself. It's going to be about 50C-60C, which is hot. You should be able to touch it, but it will be uncomfortable.
 

ieslei

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It's normal for it to get pretty hot. If you say the PID is kicking in, then it's probably working properly. If the PID is doing its job, it should eventually drop down to about 600 lumens if you leave it tail-standing by itself. It's going to be about 50C-60C, which is hot. You should be able to touch it, but it will be uncomfortable.
I see... thank you! I will make a test with my brother's IR thermometer next week and try to change the PID settings to see if there is any difference and post it here... I just found it weird cuz my sc63w doesnt get that hot.

Thanks man.
 

easilyled

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I see... thank you! I will make a test with my brother's IR thermometer next week and try to change the PID settings to see if there is any difference and post it here... I just found it weird cuz my sc63w doesnt get that hot.

Thanks man.

Not that weird surely? The SC600w IV Plus outputs far more light than the sc63w at the highest level and therefore the heat build up would be expected to be far more and much quicker.
 

ieslei

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Not that weird surely? The SC600w IV Plus outputs far more light than the sc63w at the highest level and therefore the heat build up would be expected to be far more and much quicker.
But even considering that, the PID kicks in only when the pre determined (factory setting) temperature is reached, right? Comparing the point when PID kicks in on both flashlight i supose both "have" to be in the same temperature range.... but i can understand what you are saying, when the output is highers it produces more heat, even considering a bigger head(better dissipation)... the difference feeling on my hands is huge though....
 

easilyled

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But even considering that, the PID kicks in only when the pre determined (factory setting) temperature is reached, right? Comparing the point when PID kicks in on both flashlight i supose both "have" to be in the same temperature range.... but i can understand what you are saying, when the output is highers it produces more heat, even considering a bigger head(better dissipation)... the difference feeling on my hands is huge though....

I understand what you're saying too, but as good as the PID is, shedding heat in a comparatively small light like the SC600 is a mammoth task when it initially reaches an output of 2500 lumens. In order to satisfy the manufacturer's claims, the light has to reach 2500 lumens and then maintain an output of that range for at least a few seconds. Even when the PID kicks in, the heat build-up in those few seconds will be enormous. Small lights are simply not built to withstand such high ouptut levels but the manufacturers know that the users are in love with seeing these huge numbers. Its the same for my Emisar D4Ti which outputs even more lumens at the maximum level. It can't possibly sustain that amount for more than a miniscule amount of time and the output drops like a stone while shedding a huge amount of heat in the process. :)
 

Romanko

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On the highest the head gets very hot, impossible to hold. I afraid this amount heat can harm the LED... Its weird because i have sc63w and the head doesnt get that hot, only very warm(but holdable) on the +5C setting... on the sc600 iv plus i tried to decrease 5C degrees, the PID kicks in after a few seconds but its very hard to hold the flashlight. That happens to everyone? Considering that the body reaches that temperature i am wondering the LED...

Tks
Hi. How many minutes does it take before step down on H2 1311 Lm ? Does it heat on 1311 lm?
 
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