Zero Resistance Tailcap Mod Question

[LumenMan]

I was wondering if the "paper clip" method of completing the circuit between the light body & batteries would be similar to the ElectronGuru Zero Resistance Tailcap Mod? :thinking:

I'm not trying to market the world's cheapest tailcap mod :crackup: :crazy: I would just like to know if my setup would see an improvement in output over the stock tailcap that I'm running. Any input would be appreciated! :)

 

[jimmy1970]

I was wondering if the "paper clip" method of completing the circuit between the light body & batteries would be similar to the ElectronGuru Zero Resistance Tailcap Mod? :thinking:

I'm not trying to market the world's cheapest tailcap mod :crackup: :crazy: I would just like to know if my setup would see an improvement in output over the stock tailcap that I'm running. Any input would be appreciated! :)

Your method is almost exactly the same as a standard tailcap running all the power through a thin wire (spring).

The zero resistance tailcap mod pumps the power through a solid chunk of metal!!

James...

 

[LumenMan]

Your method is almost exactly the same as a standard tailcap running all the power through a thin wire (spring).

The zero resistance tailcap mod pumps the power through a solid chunk of metal!!

James...

Thank you for your reply. That's kind of what I was thinking. I guess the only way to see if my NailBender Direct Drive SST-50 will launch more lumens is to try the tailcap mod.

Has anyone else tried a similar setup with the Zero Resistance tailcap?

 

[jimmy1970]

Thank you for your reply. That's kind of what I was thinking. I guess the only way to see if my NailBender Direct Drive SST-50 will launch more lumens is to try the tailcap mod.

Has anyone else tried a similar setup with the Zero Resistance tailcap?

Have you got any Z41's lying around? Maybe that would provide less resistance then a clicky? I'm not sure.

James....

 

[Lumencraft (Matt)]

Hi Lumenman,

I doubt that a paper clip would help you at all. If anything it may make things worse. If you are trying to get lower resistance I would look into a piece of copper desoldering braid.

Even if you dont have a soldering iron, you could stuff a wad down in the cap under the spring with the end over the top of the spring touching the battery. If you get good solid contacts with pressure on the copper this should make enough difference that you can see in a direct drive situation.

If you have some tools another option would be to remove the spring and replace it with a solid piece of aluminum bar. The bar would need to be pressed in for a tight fit, or welded. I did a mod like this in a similar 18650 light and gained several amps of current.

hope this helps.

EDIT: Here is a link with some pictures of the tailcap mod I did for an SST-50 light. Made all the difference in the world.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=272268

 

[LumenMan]

vestureofblood,

Thank you very much for the great info! :thumbsup:

 

[LumenMan]

Have you got any Z41's lying around? Maybe that would provide less resistance then a clicky? I'm not sure.

James....

Actually, I'm running the NB SST-50 in a C2 which has a Z41 HA tailcap.