Turbo Head and Tower Module with adjustable focus!

OK, the cat is out of the bag!

Yes, it's true...I will be making C-series adapters with an external focus adjustment for the SF TH and tower module combo. There is a range of movement that will allow user focusable hot spot and also a very soft monster flood, and everything in between.

I'm not sure if I can make this work with current tower modules or not. If not, I may be able to come up with a slight mod to the current tower pedestals out there, without fear of damage to the led or the electronics.

I should have something for you to view within the next week or two. I'm waiting for tooling and supplies right now.

It will be very user friendly and non-complicated.

This addition is just a boost in fun factor to an already cool toy.

This thread isn't a feeler or a sign-up thread, just FYI.

I'm moving forward on this project to satisfy my own curious and creative nature.

Back to work.....

TB

Tower Module for the Turbo Head with adjustable focus…. yes yes yes… !!! :twothumbs: ... :twothumbs: ... :twothumbs:...

Interesting ... pics?

Sounds like a great project

I have been wanting to make a TH anyway.
This may just give me the excuse to go ahead with it.

~John

For this to be properly executed, the led should be able to go forward and aft of the sweet spot, otherwise you will always be wondering if the beam could be different/better.

I don't think this idea will have a prototype. After thinking about it for the past few hours, it may have been right under my nose the whole time. :naughty:

One of you might figure it out before I have time to fire up my lathe.

I thought I had a revolutionary idea. Now that I see how simple it is, it's kinda of a let down.

Figured it out yet?

If you have SF TH and a tower module, it's right there in your hand. I'm not being a smarty pants. You already have it.

Look where that led is, and where it has to go for this to work.

Now I know somebody is going to figure it out!

How many posts will it take?

TB

The clue is in blue, that's all you need to know.

External focus adjustment, very, very simple.

Little washers over the tower to reduce height.
Remove washers to increase height.

Well that was my first though anyway until you added external focus adjustment

Good work TB

You could put a strong spring at the top of the body of the module so that it is pushed down on the body and then by unscrewing the bezel of the KT1 and KT2 head you could change the position of the LED relative to the reflector.
Works only with the KT1 and KT2 and not with the KT4 ... AND ... would require a longer tower to be able to change in both directions.

BUT ... this would also mean that there mustn't be good contact between the module tower and the KT head ... and I would fear for heat transfer greatly :sick2: ... AND ... I think Mike already focussed the thing to the tightest spot, meaning the only option would be to de-focus, and I am not sure how that beam would look, given the fact that the KT heads really aren't an ideal host for a LED, they are far too shallow, which is why the TM isn't a throw king but more a bright flooder with a spot.

bernie

You are on the right track DreamScape. Very simple external adjustment. More than one way to accomplish the task.

If this has you intrigued to the point where you've pulled your SF TH flashlight off the shelf? You're holding the answer in your hands.

The primary function is already built into the flashlight.

TB

Kiessling said:

You could put a strong spring at the top of the body of the module so that it is pushed down on the body and then by unscrewing the bezel of the KT1 and KT2 head you could change the position of the LED relative to the reflector.
Works only with the KT1 and KT2 and not with the KT4 ... AND ... would require a longer tower to be able to change in both directions.

BUT ... this would also mean that there mustn't be good contact between the module tower and the KT head ... and I would fear for heat transfer greatly :sick2: ... AND ... I think Mike already focussed the thing to the tightest spot, meaning the only option would be to de-focus, and I am not sure how that beam would look, given the fact that the KT heads really aren't an ideal host for a LED, they are far too shallow, which is why the TM isn't a throw king but more a bright flooder with a spot.

bernie

Click to expand...

The module must be able to return to its original position. You're thinking now...It wont be long.

I was too impatient to finish my module, and I needed to bench test the board to make sure it wasn't D.O.A. So I fired it up and noticed that there's a small amount of movement that will change the pattern from super tight spot to pleasing flood and crappy pattern at both extremes.

Very little movement necessary, maybe .050" / 1.27mm give or take.

:wow: Scott, i'm very impatient to take this module :goodjob:


:bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

:wave:

TranquillityBase said:

You are on the right track DreamScape. Very simple external adjustment. More than one way to accomplish the task.

If this has you intrigued to the point where you've pulled your SF TH flashlight off the shelf? You're holding the answer in your hands.

The primary function is already built into the flashlight.

TB

Click to expand...

OK TB my TH has come off the shelf and I'm checking it out.
I have the M3T by the way.
When twisting the body whilst holding the head still the lamp rotates inside the head, but doesn't move in or out. Now how do you adjust the focus?

Right, say if we wanted 5 heights for focus adjustment. Can 5 different depths be drilled into the reflector base. The Tower base when inserted has a small ball bearing inserted in it. So when twisted it will land in each hole that is drilled in the reflector base, so the deeper the hole the higher the tower(and closer the tower base to the reflector base). The shallower the hole the tower is shortened?(The further away the tower base to the reflector base)
Whether it's small holes drilled or small strips/grooves in the reflector base, it's some sort of cam action?
Maybe to complicated that. oh, I don't know

OK, your so darn close, I'll give you the last hint (pretty much the answer). Remember, there's more than one way to do this.

One thing is for certain, the module has a resting position when everything is screwed together. Hold that resting postion when the head is off and you have candle mode. Hold that resting postion when the light is together and the battery tube threads become the focusing mechanism. Remember we're only talking about .050"~.075" of movement. That big o-ring does a good job keeping everything under load.

See, its always been there.

Find the correct position for a circlip and job done, almost. The thickness of the clip needs to be addressed. One simple cut to the base of the module for the clip to nest and a groove in the battery tube for the clip and there you have it.

This means I gotta spend another $100.00 on a I.D. grooving tool holder...Crap!

Test #1

It works great! The thickness of the clip still needs to be addressed. The module pedestal in the photos is the first one I made, and it turns out I made the post about .015" longer than it needs to be. The clip is .042" thick, so I'm out of dead focus by about .030" give or take.

I will give it try tonight to see if it's really worth the effort.




Hope you like the photos.

TB

A new pedestal with a longer post would be the best for this mod. If the led is allowed to move past the point of tightest focus at both extremes of movement, the maximum effect would be realised. I hope I'm making sense?

TB

???

I'm a bit confused. Course I'm an idiot.

TranquillityBase said:

Test #1

It works great! The thickness of the clip still needs to be addressed. The module pedestal in the photos is the first one I made, and it turns out I made the post about .015" longer than it needs to be. The clip is .042" thick, so I'm out of dead focus by about .030" give or take.

I will give it try tonight to see if it's really worth the effort.




Hope you like the photos.

TB

Click to expand...

Great idea - good job dude!

Question - the clip of course keeps the module in poisition when in the module and batteries are in place. With the batteries removed the module simply drops out from the other side? Nothing keeping it in place from the other direction, right?

Will

The module stays in place even with the battery tube removed. This will work with C/P SF tubes also. One groove must be cut for the clip, that is it.

Will, do you still have the p-type 2x tube?