modify the 2390 M6 anyone?

yeah, the 2390 M6.
i got it last week
and now it doesn't look that bright to me any more...
anyone knows how to mod the module?
it seems very hard to open. i didn't not succeed with my bare hands.

I've just ordered one with the intention of modding. I already have a 18650 and luxIII UWOJ waiting for it. I intend to bore the body for the 18650. I'm not sure if this is possible, but from what I've read, it is. I'm not sure how I'm going to crack open the module, but I don't care if I cause superficial damage if it's not visible from the outside.

Let me know if you find an easy way to open it.

thanks


hehehe this is my 300th post!
:santa:

ok... wsih you good lick on the modding!

OK I've just completed the mod on my Pelican M6. Here's what I did:

1) Reflector assembly comes apart with two pairs of pliers by twisting. It's held together with a small blob of glue. I've noticed that my reflector assembly is a different style to one I saw in a previous thread.

2) Replace the LED with UWOJ bin. Easy to work out what to do, but quite fiddly. The main body and heatsink are connected directly to the negative terminal of the battery. The slug must be electrically isolated from this, so I used a thin layer of thermal epoxy and made sure I didn't press too hard as it dried. You also need to make sure the +ve terminal is well insulated too to prevent a short. +ve terminal connects to the regulator, -ve terminal connects battery, LED and and regulator together.

3) I tested it with a 17670 cell to see if it works. Output is diminished considerably over 2x123 - the solution is to direct drive it off of one li-ion cell. I read a previous thread in which someone did this using a 18650 with UXOJ luxIII. Current was 1100mA to begin with but soon dropped to under 1000mA.

4) To remove the regulator I sawed off the plastic bit at the bottom of the reflector assembly, cut out the regulator and resoldered. (no need to resolder the -ve connection). Then I glued the plastic bit back on.

5) next step was to bore the tube for the 18650 battery. I used a 3/4 inch flat boring drill bit which works perfectly. I started at the wide opening and stopped before the narrow bit at the end. ( Actually I screwed up and bored through the casing a bit at the end - doesn't really matter; I patched it up with araldite and you can't see it from the outside anyway.)

6) It didn't make contact to begin with at the tail end, so I soldered a small battery magnet onto the tail contact and now it works perfectly.



And that's how I turned my M6 into a Direct drive UWOJ using a 18650 battery. This thing's quite a bit brighter than the stock m6, in fact it's as bright as my luxeon V lights. It's slightly overdriven though and it gets quite hot.



Here's a picture of it assembled. I've replaced the original black o-rings with glow rings from the glow ring guy.

Pictures, pictures please

CM said:

Pictures, pictures please

Click to expand...

I'll try and get some tomorrow

I won't take the reflector assembly apart again though. I don't want to get thermal paste all over the place :laughing:

Pictures added

monkeyboy- thanks for sharing!

The overdrive must be pretty solid: 3.7-4.2volt batts and a LED Vf of 3.4 or so? Still, it sounds like a lot of light: any beamshots with comparos????

I don't think the overdrive is too high if you take the voltage drop under load into consideration. I'll find out when it blows

Here are beamshots against a Fenix L1p with a fresh AA alkaline.

1) hotspot comparison (L1p left, 2390 right)



2) spillbeam comparison (L1p left, 2390 right)

dang. too risky for me to try

wait until the flashlight is old

anyway, i found a defect on my luxeon emitter. i stared at the emitter and found that part of the dome is opaque! and the quest for the RMA number started.(if you can call them, call them. email just take too damn long)

chesterqw said:

dang. too risky for me to try

Click to expand...

Boring the tube is quite risky but a 17670 fits perfectly without boring. Removing the regulator is pretty straight forward with a fine saw and a soldering iron. Changing the LED is a little fiddly but may not be necessary if the stock LED is already J or K voltage bin. (Remember not to use 2 x 123 for direct drive)

So, I've been considering this myself, modifying my Pelican 2390. It didn't take long for this light to loose its crown, and it's been sitting idle for some time now. I'm not so keen on the direct drive, bore the tube approach, but more interested in a LED swap, just to get some more output or perhaps longer runtime.

Is this even worth considering? My last mod was a no brainer LuxI to SSC P4 update of my LongBow Micra, and the results were well worth the effort. Without knowing exactly what bin LuxIII is in the Pelican and how much power its being driven with, I don't know if changing it out to a P4 would be worth the effort, if even feasible.

Any thoughts, guidance, words of encouragement, admonishments or the like would be appreciated.

I can't comment on the difficulty of the mod but there has never been a Lux III with an output to match the Seoul P4 (Sounds strong I know but I think it's true). So if the question is : will this mod improve output and/or runtime the answer is yes, by roughly 50% compared to even a good Lux III.

While I freely admit not being "up to speed" on all that I read here on CPF, I was under a set of impressions similar to what you've expressed … that the P4 would bump my output considerably. In an attempt to verify this I came across this information from DFiorentino here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/156772
or more specifically, here: http://img529.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fluxvfig5.jpg
and then I'm not so sure anymore.

Are the LuxIII (white) figures misleading and overlapping the P4 numbers because they are derived from twice as much current (700mA) applied to the LuxIII vs. only 350mA applied to the P4?

Yes the P4 (U bins easily available form Photon Fanatic) puts out 91-118 lumens at 350mA with a Vf of roughly 3.25, while the LuxIII is 87-114 lumens at a Vf of 3.5. So the P4 is (by these measures) twice as bright and a little more efficient . Note that the output at 700mA won't be twice that at 350 but close. I think it's worth it for most of my torches to update.
Main trouble is lots of recent improvements means lots of upgrades....

Thanks for scrubbing in and trying to set me straight ICUDoc (optometrist or radiologist?). Turns out that I was getting color bin codes and flux bin codes confused. I think I've got it sorted out now.

So, I'm in for two more emitters and will post the results of this upgrade attempt as time permits. We can only pray the patient pulls through and has a bright :shakehead future.

Intensive care is about attention to detail. Good luck!