6P tailcap Problems with the drop-in 3watt module

Just dropped in the 3watt module and it's bright but I have one problem. The original tailcap no longer works the way it used to. I can turn to light up but the push button feature no longer functions and the cap spring really puts a dent in the bottom of the battery. Anyone else ever come across this problem?

I've edited the thread title such that I think you'll get better replies because as far as I can tell the issue is the result of the aftermarket drop-in 3watt LED module rather than the 6P's TailCap itself...

I have the same combination - 3W G&P and 6P, and it works a little differently than the original setup. I found that you have to turn the switch until the light just comes on. Then back off until it just goes off. Then I was able to use the momentary - push feature. I ignore the settings on the tailcap for all of this.
I hope that this helps. Mine works fine using this method.

Arty,

I tried backing off slightly just after the light comes on and --- nope, still doesn't work. I believe that it's because the module is a lot longer than the original bulb set-up and it's causing more spring tension on the tailcap. I've resigned myself to just using the tailcap as a straight turn on and off set-up unless something else comes along.

OK, I just tried something new. Instead of turning the tailcap just slightly from the point it lights up, I tried loosening the bezel and - it works. I have to loosen the bezel around 3/4 of a turn before the tailcap will work the way it used to. This also has the benefit of making the tailcap button easier to push since you are pushing against less pressure. Now I have to either find a very large O-ring to fit around the gap of the bezel or think of some way of making the module spring shorter.

It's the pressure that the long strong spring of the drop-in puts on the batteries/tailcap. It needs to be cut down, and shaped so that the plastic reverse polarity protection devise can be relnstalled.

Bill

I have the same setup and yes the spring pressure is too great.

I got mine to work well enough by using a pair of needle nose pliers and twisting the spring down into itself. Which will shorten it.

oregonshooter,

I was thinking about bending or twisting the spring but then the vision of it snapping completely made me chicken out. Guess I'll give it a try now. BTW, I like your user name. Reminds me of when Jansen Sportswear in Portland offered me a job by dangling the prospect of terrific hunting and fishing year round.

It was remarkably strong. Just be sure to support the base well so it does not come off the board, thus (2) pairs of pliers.

It's hard to beat Oregon for outdoor activities. I was born and raised here, but have traveled a lot and would not live anywhere else, except maybe Washington or Alaska.

That 3W in my old 6P (first run) make a great truck light that will be there when ya need it. Impressive beam and just as bright as my A2 but I'm still hooked on INCANs.

I cut about half the length of the spring off my 3W drop-in so that it would be shorter.

So I twisted the spring and it was a bit shorter but still not to my expections (my family says that I have OCD). I then cut it like leukos and it was almost perfect but still not right. What the heck. I cut it off a bit more, reformed the pig tail end, threw away the plastic disc and now it's perfect. Light comes on just when the switch almost bottoms out, push button works easily and no more ding or dents on the battery bottom. Without the disc, I hope I never lend the light out to someone who doesn't care which end of the battery goes in first.

I had to cut mine too. It's made to fit a wide variety of lights, so the extra spring really doesn't hurt. Once you narrow it down and confirm that it works in the lights you want it to, you can adjust the spring to reduce tailcap pressure.

I had to cut mine down, too. I cut about half of the spring off and my 6P tailcap works much better. I unsoldered the spring, cut it, then soldered the spring back on so I still have the spring end and the plastic piece intact.

Here's a thought. If you saved a burned out P60 bulb, then just pull out the spring and save it. If ever the 3watter module spring gives up the ghost, then just solder the P60 spring to it. It should be the right tension and length. Of course, the 3w spring seems so strong that it should never give up unless you cut it too short to begin with.