G2L vs. L2Tv2.0

Buck91 · Dec 2, 2007

It'll be a while, but I'm figuring one of these will likely be my next light. But I'm torn. The SF has a bulletproof reputation and adequate brightness (80lm), but from what I've seen then tend to have a heavy tint; although pretty decent runtime. Another plus is the CR123's would be just fine in cold weather or extended storage.

But then there is the fenix. I've heard much good about their quality and I like the idea of having a low mode at the twist of the head (I HATE having to cycle through modes all the time). Plus cheap batteries.

So I guess I would ask:
How does the brightness of the SF compare to the rebel 100 in the fenix?
How does the absolutely durability of the fenix compare to that of the SF?

Lobo · Dec 2, 2007

The Fenix is actually a RB80, not RB100. About actual output, I havent compared them or seen beamshots between them, but I would make an educated guess that it's not that much of a big difference. The Surefire is rated at 80 lumens, and Surefire uses out the front numbers, so that number is conservative. Fenix measures emitter out put(don't calculate loss at lens etc) so it will be less than 140lumens out the front. I would say that they are about equal. Remember, human eyes can't tell the differences in brightness unless it's a huge step. You might notice it if you compare them directly to each others, but in real world use, not so much.

You can run lithium AAs in the Fenix if you want to, same characteristics as CR123 when it comes to storage and cold weather performance.

When it comes to reliability, it's hard to measure and very subjective. I have had a couple of Fenix, and used them hard, and they have never failed me, I trust them. I have never owned a Surefire myself, but my friends have had some problems with his. But that's just a story, not hard evidence. Most people will say that Surefire is better, me, I think any light can fail.
Here's a abuse test of Surefire G2L:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/176054
Here's a abuse test from the same guy of Fenix P3D:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/181049

Buck91 · Dec 2, 2007

Very interesting posts Lobo, thanks.

Though it doesn't seem to help me at all

Marduke · Dec 2, 2007

Hard to say as they are very different lights. G2L will out put 80 torch lumens for about 4.5 hours, where the L2T will put out 140 emitter lumens (~100-120 torch lumens) for 2.4 hours, but has the option for a low mode. More battery choices for the L2T, and it's much slimmer to carry. Some of the L2T's have actually been shipping with RB100's, not RB80's. It's currently luck of the draw though, although for a couple bucks I bet fenix-store would be willing to go through a couple of them to find one that's probably RB100.

Personally, I hate momentary twisties compared to forward clickies, and I prefer the AA battery choice over the CR123 one, as I feel it is far more versitle.

Gunner12 · Dec 2, 2007

The Fenix Should have more output then the G2L. Runtime is about the same on rechargeable(RCR123s and NiMh AAs)

Runtime charts:

L2T V2.0
G2L(look at the 6PL runtime, the newer G2Ls have a metal head for heat management)

Marduke · Dec 2, 2007

Gunner12 said:
The Fenix Should have more output then the G2L. Runtime is about the same on rechargeable(RCR123s and NiMh AAs)

Runtime charts:

L2T V2.0
G2L(look at the 6PL runtime, the newer G2Ls have a metal head for heat management)

Opps, I forgot to mention RCR123's vs NiMH, which should give about the same runtimes for both. Good catch.

elt1 · Dec 2, 2007

I have both and prefer the G2L.

Wont comment on the beam differences as I dont have a lot of knowledge or experience on the topic.. but the main differences I've noticed are:
- G2L has got that Surefire quality feel/nitrolon polymer vs the L2T's aluminum body which is very slim (I always feel the L2T is a bit more delicate than the G2)
- L2T has got the 2 modes and forward tailcap clickie which is a plus
- as mentioned before the L2T can run off rechargeables

Personally, I use the G2L more as its a hard-use, working light.

All depends on what you plan to use it for...

Buck91 · Dec 2, 2007

Gunner12 said:
The Fenix Should have more output then the G2L. Runtime is about the same on rechargeable(RCR123s and NiMh AAs)

Runtime charts:

L2T V2.0
G2L(look at the 6PL runtime, the newer G2Ls have a metal head for heat management)

The G2L seems to have a nice 'moon mode' when regulation fails. The L2T on the other hand appears to die completely. Is this so? That would definately be a consideration.

As for useage, it would be used as a bike light for riding to the bar (dont want to leave a $150 light system on the bars while I'm inside!!) wiht a twofsh mounting block. It would be used gathering bonfire wood. It would be used for misc and "oh shyt" situations. Would be a jacket/pack/car carry light, but probably would rarely see dedicated EDC use (ie: jeans pocket).

Looking at the tests posted above, they both should be quite durable. It seems o be a choice between
1) size/material
2) battery type
3) modes, or lack thereof
4) SF vs. Fenix

Since the only lights I've owned are mag, ultrafire, mte, dorcy and the like (well, one princton tec, actually) I would like to make an entry into the "high end" (in my opinion) lights, but I do not want to pick the wrong one as it will likely be the last light I buy for a long time (until I replace my hunting/fishing/boating halogen spotlight).

Marduke · Dec 2, 2007

Once the L2T falls out of regulation on high, it can still be used for many hours in the low mode.

Gunner12 · Dec 2, 2007

The cut off is probably there because chevrofreak didn't want to over discharge the batteries(Buying new sets of rechargeable batteries for each runtime would start getting costly). There is a moon mode, look at the alkaline battery's chart.

Low mode is also there if you need longer runtime.

patycake57 · Dec 3, 2007

I'm sure you've already considered it, but it seems like there were a number of people using L1D or L2D on a bike because it would be easy in turbo mode to get to strobe to improve their visibility. It seems like a good idea to me.

NA8 · Dec 3, 2007

I'd recommend neither. :devil:

The L2Tv2 is a rebel 80. I'd wait until there's a premium LED version before buying the L2T.

The G2L ? I've handled one and the out the lens lumens didn't impress me at all. YMMV.

I'd recommend a good old 6P. Stash the incan module for comparisons, and pick up the LED drop in you like the most. Surefire metal body and state of the art light engine.

On the other hand, you could buy both the G2L and the L2Tv2 knowing you can sell the one you don't want (or both) on the BuySellTrade forum.

dougie · Dec 3, 2007

I've got both and from my perspective the G2L is much more of a flood light than the Fenix. The blue tint is a luck of the draw kind of thing and my example appears very white unless you need to white wall hunt (which I don't)!

Without wishing to start a flame war, the Fenix lights I own never inspire me with the same sort of confidence that Surefire's do. I 've exposed one of my Fenix lights to an accidental torture test in a washing machine which it survived 100% perfectly well. However, I know that 99.99% of the time any problems with a Surefire light will be put right by them and that they will support the G2L for a long ways into the future.

Because of Fenix's constant development and new releases I doubt that your support for a Fenix light will be there in over a year or so's time?

Some folks will argue that it doesn't matter because in a years time something new and better will be along and you'll want to buy that and dispose of the Fenix you've now got for something better. My answer to that is quite simple and that is I've had most of my Surefire lights for over 4 years now and they are just as effective now as then. More so if you think that the chances of a Surefire becoming totally unsupported are remote.

In short whilst the Fenix is a great low cost flashlight my money would be on the Surefire.

Doug:laughing:

Lobo · Dec 3, 2007

dougie said:
I've got both and from my perspective the G2L is much more of a flood light than the Fenix. The blue tint is a luck of the draw kind of thing and my example appears very white unless you need to white wall hunt (which I don't)!

Without wishing to start a flame war, the Fenix lights I own never inspire me with the same sort of confidence that Surefire's do. I 've exposed one of my Fenix lights to an accidental torture test in a washing machine which it survived 100% perfectly well. However, I know that 99.99% of the time any problems with a Surefire light will be put right by them and that they will support the G2L for a long ways into the future.

Because of Fenix's constant development and new releases I doubt that your support for a Fenix light will be there in over a year or so's time?

Some folks will argue that it doesn't matter because in a years time something new and better will be along and you'll want to buy that and dispose of the Fenix you've now got for something better. My answer to that is quite simple and that is I've had most of my Surefire lights for over 4 years now and they are just as effective now as then. More so if you think that the chances of a Surefire becoming totally unsupported are remote.

In short whilst the Fenix is a great low cost flashlight my money would be on the Surefire.

Doug:laughing:

Depending on where you buy them from (in other words, fenix-store or lighthound) the fenix support is topnotch(well not really Fenix, it's the dealers that stand behind the product). In fact, while staying on these boards, I've heard more problems and delays with Surefire support than Fenix...

Buck91 · Dec 3, 2007

As it stands, I'm leaning towards the SF. Despite all the positive fenix feedback, and the supperior rebel tint (just love the rendition of my MTE rebel), I want a rock solid light that I can throw in my glovebox or BOB (well, as of now its a .50cal ammo can) and not worry about it. I'm sure I'll end up getting both in the end.

Whats all this with the metal head on the G2L now? I'll have to look into that, seems like a great improvement. Does anybody know if the batteryjunction G2L w/ 6 extra batts is the newer version?

CrazyCarl · Dec 3, 2007

I just bought a G2 LED. It's a black one, and for some reason it has an Aluminum head. The package had the yellow sticker claiming new high output or whatever that said. The LED component looks like the Seoul in this thread:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/146607

I don't have a decent Rebel-based flashlight to compare, but I do have a lot of other things. When wall-hunting against a Fenix P1D CE (one of my whitest flashlights), the G2L tooks kind of purple, making the P1D CE look almost green in comparison. Neither look bad on their own, but the P1D CE is definitely whiter.

With the P1D CE set to half power, it's really hard to say which is brighter. I lean slightly towards the G2, and with the manufacturers' lumens ratings being 72 vs. 80 that makes sense. I would guess Fenix's claim for the L2T is fairly accurate as well.

CrazyCarl · Dec 3, 2007

Buck91 said:
Whats all this with the metal head on the G2L now? I'll have to look into that, seems like a great improvement.

The metal head has a hexagonal anti-roll area, while the plastic one has 12 bumps going around it. The hex shape seems to be a better anti-roll mechanism.

It does get warm after a few minutes. I don't know if it's enough heat inside to affect the LED and circuit (if Surefire thinks so, I'll go with their word), but it really makes me wonder if the Xenon G2 was really such a good idea.

NA8 · Dec 4, 2007

CrazyCarl said:
, but it really makes me wonder if the Xenon G2 was really such a good idea.

What about the G3 with the 200 lumen P91 module ?

Apparently those all worked. Makes you wonder. Then again, they had a pretty short run time.

Valolammas · Dec 4, 2007

CrazyCarl said:
It does get warm after a few minutes. I don't know if it's enough heat inside to affect the LED and circuit (if Surefire thinks so, I'll go with their word), but it really makes me wonder if the Xenon G2 was really such a good idea.

Well, incan bulbs produce light as a side effect of getting hot. Heat does not harm an incan bulb, so if the plastic can handle it, there's no reason to worry.

LEDs, OTOH, get hot as a side effect of producing light. LEDs can be damaged by excess heat, so they must get rid of it somehow and there a plastic head can be a hindrance.

Size15's · Dec 4, 2007

SureFire designed a proprietary glass-filled polyamide Nylon polymer they call "Nitrolon".
It can handle the heat produced by the incandescent lamp assemblies no problems. SureFire uses tempered Pyrex (glass) windows on models such as the G3 because of the heat generated by the bulb and beam.

LED's produce cold beams but the LED and its electronics get hot. That's why the G2L and G3L have aluminium bezels so to better manage the heat. Also, they have Lexan (polycarbonate) windows for better durability because there is no need to use Pyrex to cope with the beam.

G2L vs. L2Tv2.0

Flashlight Enthusiast

Flashlight Enthusiast

Flashlight Enthusiast

Flashaholic

Flashaholic

Flashaholic

Newly Enlightened

Flashlight Enthusiast

Flashaholic

Flashaholic

Newly Enlightened

Flashlight Enthusiast

Enlightened

Flashlight Enthusiast

Flashlight Enthusiast

Newly Enlightened

Newly Enlightened

Flashlight Enthusiast

Enlightened

Flashaholic

Similar threads