Surefire E1L vs L1 - which one, and why?

digitaldave

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Jun 18, 2008
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Dear all,

Now I've got my head around how the L1 UI works (turns out it's much simpler than I'd initially thought), I'm left with a problem... When I thought the L1 was awkward to use, I was leaning massively towards the E1L, but now I know the L1 is easy to use, it's not so cut and dried... I see the pros and cons as follows:

E1L:
Pros
Smaller for easy pocketability
Much longer runtimes - are the SF web site run times reasonably accurate?
Low setting is lower - but will it's 3 lumens be quite close to the L1's 10 in real use?

Cons
High setting is lower - although I'm sure someone has said it's actually not that different to the L1's high.

L1
Pros
High is higher than the E1L (although may actually be similar in real world).
UI is simpler (although the E1L isn't rocket science either) - gives instant access to high or low mode as needed without having to switch between modes.

Cons
Costs more.
Run times are much lower.
Slightly larger.

Neutral points
Both use the same number of cells.
Both can make use of the beam diffuser for more flood.

The UI issue isn't really an issue as such, in that they both seem simple to use, but in different ways. I looked at the E1B as well, but I'm not keen on the fact that it's permanently set to high first - I suspect that for me, low would bet more use, so having low first would be preferable.

One other issue that's been mentioned in other threads is that the E1L has a clicky tail cap, whereas the L1 has a twisty, and it's been said that the clicky is more likely to fail. Whilst I don't doubt that the clicky is more likely to fail, is that actually going to be an issue in real world use? Have there been many reports of failed clicky switches?

Finally, what about using rechargeables? Is that possible with stock versions of either light? And if it is possible, should I just stick with primaries for the much longer run times?

So, I think that's all I can think of. What do you guys think?

Thanks,

Dave.
 

parnass

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.....and it's been said that the clicky is more likely to fail. Whilst I don't doubt that the clicky is more likely to fail, is that actually going to be an issue in real world use? Have there been many reports of failed clicky switches? ...

Some people have reported failures of the Surefire clicky tailcap, but that should not be a problem if you buy a new E1L because it uses an improved clicky.

The current, dual level E1L is furnished with a newer style clicky tailcap switch which is purported to be more reliable than the previous version. I have experienced no problems with the current (or even the older) version.

Surefire has a lifetime warranty and will replace the tailcap if it ever fails.

Suggest you visit a local store and compare the L1 and E1L. The gun shops in my area carry Surefire lights and are better stocked than the local Gander Mountain and Cabelas stores.

Good luck with your choice.
 

digitaldave

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Jun 18, 2008
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Thanks for the reply.

I was wondering if the tail cap is covered by the warranty, so it's good to know that it is.

As for checking out local stores... Unfortunately, I'm in the UK, and real world stores that stock anything beyond Maglites or camping lanterns are few and far between. Hence the reason for asking here. I know there is a UK meet coming up soon, but sadly it's not that close to where I live, so I doubt I'd be able to get along :(.
 

bullfrog

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I went through a similar situation comparing these 2 lights (plus the E2L and E2DL) - after spending a week researching, comparing and handling, the L1 was a clear winner (with the E2DL a close second). The size and feel is MUCH more comfortable and pleasing to the hand vs. the E1L (the E1L is just too small, IMHO).

Further, the 10 lms low on the L1 is great and what I use 75% of the time but the 65 lms is awesome when throw is needed. The 10/65 output i think is much more versatile and useful than the 3/45... Buy the L04 diffuser and you are set for any situation. On the runtime, I think the L1 is more than adequate (you can always keep a few spares in your bag).

Lastly, I LOVE the UI - it is just very easy and dependable. The temporary on is great when you just need a quick burst of light to see.

So I say go for the L1 and you will absolutely not be disappointed - it is pretty close to a perfect mix of features and function. If you are willing to go for a 2x CR123 give the E2DL a look. Or just get both like I did :thumbsup:

Either way, the L1 outshines the E1L.
 

bigfoot

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Differing opinion here... I had an L1 for a short time and returned it to SF. Then I picked up a KX1 head to turn my old E1L into a new E1L (with the dual output 3/45). I've found the 3 lumen low on the E1L great (the 10 lumens on the L1 was too bright), and 95% of the time the E1L is what I'm carrying. The high of 45 lumens isn't shabby, either.

For the price difference ($99 vs. $135) to me the E1L is the winner. Like Parnass said, if you get the chance to try both out go for it.

+1 on the F04 diffuser beamshaper for $12. A great accessory.
 

Size15's

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The E1L is just too small - too short and the body/bezel proportions are just not ergonomic for my hands.
Also, I find the two-stage push button pressure switch far more easy, simple and ergonomic to use compared to clickies.

For me there is no contest - the L1 is significantly better than the E1L (and E1B etc)

Ergonomics trumps output when it comes to EDC - that's what I've found.
 

Crenshaw

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An L1 dumb body would be the best. The benefits of being competible with KX series heads, and retaining the two modes of the L1.

Crenshaw
 

Tempest UK

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When I use the E1L/E1B/etc size SureFires, I have the use a Rogers/SureFire type grip on the light. Thankfully this works just fine. If I try and grip it "normally" then it's just too small to use comfortably, especially for longer than a minute or so.

Regards,
Tempest
 

Valpo Hawkeye

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An L1 dumb body would be the best. The benefits of being competible with KX series heads, and retaining the two modes of the L1.

Well, the KX heads have the same optic as the L1, so what's the difference? Additionally, the KX2 single stage will flicker with a resistored two-stage tail cap, so that's out.
 

H2Orower

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+1 E1L
-1 L1

''To each his own'', as the saying goes, but I just don't get the attraction to the pressure switch on the L1. My vote, between your two choices, is the E1L for sure. The L1 looks the coolest and feels great in my hand, but the tailcap is a deal breaker for me. The E1L clickie tailcap switch gives me the best of both worlds: instant, silent activation of temporary light bursts by pressing lightly on switch, AND easy, one finger activation of constant on when desired by simply clicking switch.

I also like the E series for their upgradability and accessorizing. You have choices in bezels and tailcaps with the E series.

Good luck in your decision. If you're unhappy with your first choice, it's no big deal. You can always do what I did and buy another light, and another, and another... :)
 

JNewell

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Al, you're referring to the latest version of the L1 (the Cree version), correct?

The E1L is just too small - too short and the body/bezel proportions are just not ergonomic for my hands.
Also, I find the two-stage push button pressure switch far more easy, simple and ergonomic to use compared to clickies.

For me there is no contest - the L1 is significantly better than the E1L (and E1B etc)

Ergonomics trumps output when it comes to EDC - that's what I've found.
 

FredM

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The L1 seems to be the winner but the Low is a little high I think.

I like the E2D LED low. Seems about perfect.

Except for that small difference I think the L1 wins hands down.
 

Blindasabat

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You can mod the tailcap with a higher ohm resistor to make the L1 low lower. Or more accurately, an experienced modder can do that. Milkyspit does it.

I like the E2DL low too. With that optic it seems like more than 3 lumens. Throws like 10-15L on low.
The L1 seems to be the winner but the Low is a little high I think.

I like the E2D LED low. Seems about perfect.

Except for that small difference I think the L1 wins hands down.
 

digitaldave

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Thanks for all the replies everyone, they have been very helpful :).

You'll be pleased to know that I'm still undecided about which one to go for :(. I'm not sure how much of an issue the length will be - both lights are actually longer than my current L1D - the L1d is 3.8", E1L is 4.05" and L1 is 4.5". The lower low on the E1L is quite attractive, as is the longer run times. But the L1 has the higher high level. Argh!!!

Anyone else got any more input?

Thanks,

Dave.
 

bullfrog

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I understand your pain - just went through the same torture!!!

What will the USE of this light be? Camping, emergency, EDC...?

Regarding your point on runtime (E1L) vs. brightness (L1), you can always carry a few extra cells to extend the life of the L1, however, there is no quick fix to increase brightness short of modding for the E1L... ;)

Again, +1 for the L1!
 

FX67

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May 23, 2005
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I just got E1L for camping and general playing (ha). With regards to light output, when in the woods and it is dark (not the dark in the city, but real dark) low level is about perfect if not a little high, comparing with HDS it is about between primary and secondary but with less spill. Having slightly warmer tint on E1L helps with color perception, as some of the green colors under regular LED with cold tint show as grey. High is about as powerfull as you would need outside and being higly focused it is great for spoting. While I like L1 form factor and don't mind switch, E1L is slightly smaller and swith UI works suprisingly good. Very convinient as it first come on low and if you need a High it is one extra click. So far I like it and will be using as my hiking light in addition to Tikka XP with Seoul.
 

KDOG3

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I've always loved the L1. Its the output levels that keep me from buying it. THe low is just too high. I really wish they'd go back to a really low low and possibly a higher high. I don't see why a 2/100lumen output setup would be unreasonable...
 
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