Weaponlight recommendation

I've lurked here for a bit, and resisted the urge to post because the last thing I need is another hobby ( :shrug: ), but I wound up with a question that I need to have answered. Yes, I tried a search, but I wound up with a lot of info and some of it is older, and I know that the tech has changed a lot in the past year or so.

So, the question:

Please recommend a weapon light for an M16 for police patrol use, given the following information/requirements:

- Durability. This will be a serious use light. It has to stand up to being knocked around a little.

- Reliability. Pushing the switch and getting no light can be fatal.

- Lightweight. My department requires that we use bayonet mounts (picatinny/weaver rail mounted on the bayo lug), putting all of the light's weight waaaaaaaay out away from the fulcrum, so each oz counts. No, I can't move it elsewhere. I'm thinking 2 CR123A batteries is a max. Also, reflector size should be kept small, since the mount is close to the barrel.

- Brightness. We're an urban department, so most of our use is pretty close in. We zero our weapons at 50yds, and we train out to 100yds. The ability to illuminate a threat out to 100yds is important, but I don't want to get too crazy about flooding the target with light at that range, for two reasons: 1. the chance of having to shoot at 100yds is reasonably small, and 2. if we do have to take the shot, we'll probably know he's a threat at that point (we did threat ID drills at that range in daylight, and you can't see a handgun reliably at high noon, so the only way we'd be shooting is if we knew he was shootable ahead of time). Also, we will have to use this light inside buildings, so I don't want to be blinded/dazzled by my own torch.

Right now I'm running a Surefire Nitrolon G2 with a Malkoff Devices LED lamp and a tapeswitch. It seems adequate, but I'm wondering if there is something better? Also, what is the current (11/08) argument re: incandescent vs LED for weaponlights? I "know" (think?) the CW is that LEDs are fine for close up use but you want Incans when you reach out...is that still the case?

Thanks,

Mike

Well Gene is making incan looking led drop-ins now. Q2 5A reders color very well. He also has diffused optics to give a ton of flood for indoor work.

If you want to go smaller why not try out a Scoutlight variant. E series lights are pretty small. The KX2C head is really bright but not as floody as the L4 head. It's also cooler and runs longer.

I'm not really that pressed about color rendition, unless it is so poor that I cannot ID a handgun at close range or an AK or SKS at moderate range. I know that the denizens of CPF are really concerned about things like color rendition and beam shape and uniformity, and that these can be an issue for my usage if they're "off" far enough, but I'm looking more at durability, reliability and the amount of light and I can put on the target. Battery life is important, too, but is a secondary concern.

Is the scoutlight really that much lighter? I'm much more concerned about weight than I am size.

Thanks,
Mike

The current SureFire ScoutLight M600C, supplied with the KX2C LED bezel, and a remote tape switch would appear a valid consideration.

I seem to have lost my reply. Hrm.

Are the Scoutlights that much more lightweight than a G2 Nightrolon with a Malkoff lamp, or more reliable? I agree they're nice, but the MSRP is over $400. I can get into a G2, Malkoff head, tapeswitch and mounting hardware for a little over $100.

Mike

ETA: Ah, I see. Delay in posting due to active moderation. Gotcha.

Nah, hardly much weight difference.

Only a little smaller around. I vote you stick with what you got, get the job done cheaper.

I work patrol and have a rifle in my vehicle.

I agree that your current light setup seems to be good enough--maybe ideal. I agree with your logic also. You're probably good to go.

OK, next question:

Which tapeswitches work with a G2? I know Surefire switches do (*coughcough*expensive*coughcough*), but they're ludicrous to buy as standalone items. The switch I have is, I think, a pelican switch, but the cord is only about 5" or so. It would be nice to get a longer cord so I could run the pad back closer to the receiver.

I'm asking for a couple of my buddies, too. They want a similar setup, so I'm trying to figure out what the "package price" would be, for everything.

Thanks guys,

Mike

I had this light for a while.


SF m961 on a Larue Tactical offset mount. Worked well, but it was heavy. I'm now downsizing. My plan is to use a SF 6P+drop-in, with a LT offset mount. Much lighter, and will be twice as bright, with double the time.

I personally hate pressure tape. I like buttons.

Another option is the new TLR-1

Nice stick. That's set up pretty close to my "fun" rifle, but it's not wearing a light- yet. Mine's also a middy, not a CAR. The rest is surprisingly close to mine.

I prefer switches, too, but the trouble is with where I have to mount the light. To run a TLR or any light with a non-remote switch, I'd have to have my support hand constantly out by the gas block, if I wanted to do any on-off tactical lighting. That gets real old after a few minutes.

Mike

Bump:

Anyone know of a longer-than-5" tailcap/tapswitch assy for the G2?

Thanks,

Mike

SureFire offers a variety of cable lengths.

If you get an XM07 the cable is 7" inches long.

The XM07 features the ST07 remote tape pressure switch.
You can purchase the XM TailCap without remote switch - XM00, and then get the right length STxx switch you need - ST06, ST08 etc

Sorry, I should have been more clear: I'm looking for a non-SF tapeswitch to run with the G2. I'm all for buying quality, but SF's accessories are just stupid expensive. The tapeswitch would cost more than the light, unless you know a place that has it cheaper than I could find.

Mike

I am a SF fan and yes their items are expensive when you are looking at keeping costs down. However with the price, I get peace of mind. Knowing that if ANYTHING goes wrong, it will be replaced for free.

The XM07 tailcap could be bought for $40. At least I did. but then again that is still more expensive than the light and I got mine second hand from the market place.

For an inexpensive tailswitch you may want to look into TACSTAR. They make a 10" remote switch for $20
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0005772227869a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCH_all&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&Ntk=Products&QueryText=tacstar&sort=all&Go.y=0&_D%3AhasJS=+&N=0&Nty=1&hasJS=true&Go.x=0&_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fsearch%2Fsearch-box.jsp.form23&_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1


I had this for a short while. It works but I dont know if mine was defective. There was a short in the switch. after prolonged use, like over 15 secs of continuous pressure, the switch would get REALLY HOT. and burn my finger. but at only $20 you cant really be picky.

This should work well for the long forearms of M16s. Having a light WAY out at the barrel mount is a bit silly. Is there any way you can get your dept to allow this?
http://commandarms.com/product.asp?pID=145&cID=8

It is a triple rail and allows for a much more comfortable positioning of a light and other accessories.

Hahahahahahahhahahahaha!

No.

I can't talk my PD into allowing us to use any adapter other than the one I mentioned. Railed mount, on the bayo lug. Yes, it's stupid. The fact that you and I have identified the stupidity means we're not cut out for law enforcment executive office. Besides, the CAA rail won't work with the M16A1's triangular handguards. And no, I can't replace the A1 handguards with A2 oval handguards, either. :shakehead

I think one of my friends has the TacStar pressure pad. His gets hot, too. I'm also not a big fan of the catch-on-everything curled wire.

Mike

This is a bit of a left field suggestion and I am not a LEOSWATSEALGSGOPERATOR but I have found it works very well for me on rifles.

The Streamlight TLR-1. It is super light weight, puts out plenty of light for a 50 yard engagement, decent flood, good spot, has a tape switch available, is robust and is pretty inexpensive. It will mount on any picatinny type rail and due to it's size can pretty much go anywhere. Run time is excellent as well.

The remote switches, just for example.

http://www.copquest.com/10-6840.htm

One more thing, I assume you are the same Coronach that frequents THR/TFL etc. If so welcome to CPF.

Chris

Ugh...tapeswitches.... I see the dilemma though. IMO for that level of risk I'd spend the money and get surefire switches. IMO always better safe than sorry.

Not having that limitation I use an adjustable CAA mount with a surefire G2L. It's positioned where I can activate it with my thumb while my hand is on the vfg. Not too expensive and very reliable.

Surefire has a LEO discount, if that helps.

cslinger-

Yes, that's me. I'm now stinking up, like, three or four internet forums. Good to see a familiar face- err, screen name.

As to the TLRs...

I had not wanted to go that route, since they are more expensive than the G2 and don't throw as much light, but when you factor in the cost of accessories, they really are more economical in the end.

I may just suck it up and buy the SF tailcap and switch. If nothing else, I will end up owning/using another SF weapon light at some point in the future, and the interchangability and bulletproof nature of SF's products make it worth the money if I can get a lifetime of use out of it.

It just seems silly, though. My $20 Pelican (I think?) tapeswitch has been flawless. It's just too short.

Mike