focusing p7? how about with an Aspheric lens?

I was looking at the Led Lenser and I thought it was really cool how it could focus like that. I was wondering if there is any way some of the p7 flashlights from Dealextreme could be focused, even if that means an external lens is needed (preferably that clamps/tightens on?), or if they even made a custom head that could screw on the flashlight.

HERE is the p7 flashlight I've purchased from dealextreme, I should have it in a couple days. It's head is 52mm, and on kaidomain here are 2 52mm Aspherical Lens's:
sku=1753
sku=1777


Really I just wanna know if i can focus a p7 LED like the Led Lenser flashlights.

edit: I recieved my flashlight only hours after making this post. It came sooner than I expected.

I just purchased this for a 2D maglight. from KD
M*g CREE Q5 LED Drop-in & 52mm Aspherical Lens
It does retain its focus ability.


Also,
search aspherical maglight in the search engine and you will get a couple great threads regarding that drop-in.

The Ledlenser lights have an optic, not just a lens.

With a lens at full focus an a multi die emitter like the Seoul P7, you'll end up with a number of hotspots (number depends on ho many dies, 2 die = 2 hotspots, 4 = 4 hotspots).

There are optics available for the Seoul P7 but I'm not sure how well they work out of focus.

I did a few searches including aspherical maglight and p7 optics, and from this I was able to find LITEmania's Collimators, although I'm really not sure how they work and what the beam would look like. I also don't know if he makes 52mm collimators.

---
btw, it's almost night! I can go out and see how bright it is!

He doesn't make the collimators himself they are bought from a manufacturer.

I have an idea about partially frosting the back side of an aspheric to help blend the light of the 4 dies into a better beam. but I need to try out.

AlexGT

AlexGT said:

He doesn't make the collimators himself they are bought from a manufacturer.

I have an idea about partially frosting the back side of an aspheric to help blend the light of the 4 dies into a better beam. but I need to try out.

AlexGT

Click to expand...

You mean like this?

It is one of the options on the DEFT. I am now doing something else too however. I frost/etch the glass on the MC-Es so they can now be used with the smooth lens. Only thing is it will not work on the P7s because of the silicone dome. I have found that if you have a nice piece of diffuser film you can tune the amount of diffusion by how far or close to the lens you put it. This allows you to get just the right amount of diffusing without it being too much.

saabluster said:

You mean like this?

It is one of the options on the DEFT. I am now doing something else too however. I frost/etch the glass on the MC-Es so they can now be used with the smooth lens. Only thing is it will not work on the P7s because of the silicone dome. I have found that if you have a nice piece of diffuser film you can tune the amount of diffusion by how far or close to the lens you put it. This allows you to get just the right amount of diffusing without it being too much.

Click to expand...

do you have some pictures and beamshots from an etched mc-e?

markus

mash.m said:

do you have some pictures and beamshots from an etched mc-e?

markus

Click to expand...

Try here mash:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2681963&postcount=2

Patriot said:

Try here mash:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2681963&postcount=2

Click to expand...

Thanks for helping me out. Those are actually of the diffused lens not the new etched dome MC-Es. Here are the only shots I have taken so far of the etched MC-E. They were horribly underexposed. I really need to redo them.

On further review of what Alex actually said it appears he may be talking about only a portion of the lens being diffused. If that is the case I can assure you that it will not work to get rid of the four projected dies. The best thing would be to either etch if it is an MC-E or use the method I referred to above with the diffuser film.

The litemania units are pretty nice since you can snap on a medium and tight beam diffuser, which get rid of the 4 dies being thrown into their own square beam. Hopefully I'll have some beam shots of my driving lights within the week.

Fascinating project!

A perfect focused aspheric will project a square image of the led. In the case of an P7, this will include a dark cross in the center of the beam. This is because the P7 is actually 4 diodes crammed together in one. I've seen some beam shot of this effect somewhere on CPF - search and thou shall find.... This dark cross should disappear when defocused slightly (a larger, round hot spot).


Also one boring fact: The area of the LED is important when optimising for throw. If you compare a multi-die LED (such as P7) and a convential LED with asperic lens, the larger area of the P7 will give a larger hot spot (or 4 hot spots, in fact) than the single die - but it won't throw further than the single die aspheric. The larger P7 hot spot may be more useful, but that is another story.


I'm fascinated by aspherics, and I am really looking forward to you posting your experiences with them!

Yes Saabluster I meant to partially frost the center part of the back of the aspheric right where the 4 dies meet, maybe about 2-3 cm round and leave the rest unfrosted to collimate as much light possible, never seen anyone tried that before, have you?

I wonder if the P7 and MCE would benefit to have a side emmiter dome like the old luxeons used to have but only bigger.

AlexGT

AlexGT said:

Yes Saabluster I meant to partially frost the center part of the back of the aspheric right where the 4 dies meet, maybe about 2-3 cm round and leave the rest unfrosted to collimate as much light possible, never seen anyone tried that before, have you?

I wonder if the P7 and MCE would benefit to have a side emmiter dome like the old luxeons used to have but only bigger.

AlexGT

Click to expand...

I've done it myself. Thats why I mentioned that it would not work. If any part of the lens is smooth it will throw the image of the dies. The whole thing needs to be diffused. The trick it to tune it to only diffuse as much as it would take to blend and no more. That was what I was trying to help you with. I have some diffusion film that you can play with if you'd like. Just PM me your address and I will send you some.

Thanks for your gesture Saabluster! would love to try it out, PM sent!

AlexGT