My pistol light (mod) project

sortafast

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Jan 7, 2006
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315
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Oregon
So, after many many months I finally got off my butt and decided to do my pistol light that has been sitting around for ever. Initially I was just going to replace the LED and call it a day. In fact i did do this to another light. Gives it more oompf and better light quality than stock, but it still seemed lacking to me. So I decided to go full bore and make a new drop in unit to replace the old one. A bit ambitious as I really still don't know how/fell comfortable threading. But with some free time over the past few weeks I was able to get turning.

The donor light was a cheap CDNN special. Set me back a whopping $28 and is branded under several other names (NC Star and the like). It started life as a meager 35lm light that was not even acceptable IMO. Beam was ok, but very purple on the edges and nice and yellow in the middle. I don't even think i would have play airsoft with it. as for the additions, its getting a SSC P4 from DX, an IMS 18mm reflector, 18mm glass lens (came with a poly carb pos), and a buck boost board from KD.

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OK so on to the fun/not so fun stuff. Just so you know, and it might become obvious to some, I did not in anyway do any kind of design work on this. I pretty much mimicked the old design to a point and just kinda fudged and fitted things along so that they would work with the components that I wanted to use. First thing was to make the outer housing. This is a fairly simple and strait forward type thing. Only tricky part was the 1.0mm threads that connect it to the main body of the light. I gave myself plenty of space as I new I would F it up somewhere along the way.

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As you can see, I gave myself plenty of room

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Faced off a bit and we are golden

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I then cleaned up the OD, did a little work to the ID to set a proper shoulder for the circuit board to rest on, then I flipped it around. At this point I did the rest of the ID turning and then cut a short section of 32tpi threads (a ton easier than do the metric threads). After that I took out a bit more material behind the threads so that the bezel wouldn't bottom out there but rather on the face of the light body (which didn't quite come out right, more on that later).

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I missed pics on a few steps, but most of that was boring stuff. There were also quite a few fit tests throughout as I was pretty uncertain about my abilities to thread. Plus since i was not using anything really standard for sizing (mixed in with my lack of being able to correctly read the data in the Machinery's Handbook) . I just took my ID and rolled with it. I think i got it to work ok. Next, though, was the Bezel. nothing fancy, just simple strait forward design, arbitrary angles Just trying to make it look good.

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The it was test fit time, this time with pics

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Somewhat satisfied I took it back to the lathe and machined off a bit more of the material to try to make it look a little less bulky. I also didn't really think about it as the design was ever shifting and morphing in my head, but I knocked the OD of the bezel down a bit more than I should have, but at this point I could care less. The bezel threaded into the light body and thats all that mattered. Some day i might make a new one but for now we are bizness.

Then it was just a matter of adding the guts, doing a bit of soldering and testing. All that is left is to get some sort of black coating/krylon on it and we are good to go.

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Here is a beam shot. This was taken with a point and shoot, so I have no clue what the setting were. But it is more to show the beam pattern. The hot spot almost lines up perfectly with the sites at 6-10ft and it will illuminate a 10x10 room pretty darn well for a pistol light. Doubt it will be good past 20-40yds, but if i have to shoot that far at night I don't want to be shooting my pistol.

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The only thing that I do not like about this light is that the circuit that I got with it has that stupid hi/med/lo/strobe/SOS setting. So if you shut the light off and the turn it back on with in 1-2sec it will go to the next mode. Really annoying. I will be looking for a good replacement as soon as I can find one. Until then its function check, then put away.


-Dave
 

sortafast

Enlightened
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Jan 7, 2006
Messages
315
Location
Oregon
thanks. I still think i might redo this one. its about 5-8mm longer than it needs to be. Just need to get a good boost board in there that is shorter so I can shrink it down a bit. And then I can make the bezel match the body for a cleaner look. Might even do a strike bezel, or if i can find it, put in some carbide spikes for breaking windows.
 

lewong

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Oct 5, 2007
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California, USA
Very nice work!

I use the DX 7612 circuit board in many of my lights. I even put one in a Malkoff M30.

Though it has 16 modes, there is one group that has only high-medium-low. It also remembers the last setting, so if you turn it off when it's on high, it will turn back on high, for example. You never have to see the other groups or strobe if you don't want to.
 

Justin Case

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Mar 19, 2008
Messages
3,797
Any photos of the stock M30 driver and of the mod'ed M30? I'm curious as to what DC-DC boost converter chip is used in the M30.
 

kosPap

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Mar 1, 2007
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2,909
Location
Naoussa Greece
Great work!

This was taken with a point and shoot, so I have no clue what the setting were.

you are not right..any photo that comes from a digital camera has the data imbeded..just right click on the image and go to properties-advanced...

The only thing that I do not like about this light is that the circuit that I got with it has that stupid hi/med/lo/strobe/SOS setting.

I don't either... this would make an exellent single mod driver...here is a thread I started on converting it to single mode...
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/227194

and there is one more I got to search in my archives for...

Enjoy, Kostas
 

sortafast

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Jan 7, 2006
Messages
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Oregon
My FIL is a computer engineer so he has the stuff to program those little things. I might take one to him and see what he can do to just re-program it, or if that is even possible. or he might have a better solution. Its an awful lot of work. I will probably just end up buying a way more expensive board that is smaller so that I can reduce the size of the drop in.
 

carbine15

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Nov 20, 2005
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Slaughter, WA
try shorting the ned- led to the body (neg battery) that usually kills the modes and leaves the driver in High.
 

kosPap

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indeed it worked....not only wih this driver but with a KD P7 PWM driving one product ID 1815 or 1845?
 

sortafast

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Jan 7, 2006
Messages
315
Location
Oregon
Looks awesome dude, lets see some pics with the tube painted.
:)
I am probably going to redo this very soon to make it a bit shorter and hopefully a lot better. We shall see. I like that its brighter, but aesthetically I am not very pleased with it. It just looks funny, and I know that I can do a better job. Once I make it better I will paint/cerakote it.
 

sortafast

Enlightened
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Jan 7, 2006
Messages
315
Location
Oregon
try shorting the ned- led to the body (neg battery) that usually kills the modes and leaves the driver in High.

Tried this and it didn't work. I am going to hook it up to something with a bit more voltage and see if it helps. All I want is high with this light. If all else fails I will just get a nice board from the sandwich shop or something.
 

bigchelis

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Oct 30, 2008
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Prunedale, CA
Here is my G&P weaponlight 100% P60 compatible. It fits a regulated MC-E from Gene Malkoff and M60.

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Here is the best part about the G&P weaponlight. If you unscrew the bezel from the weaponlight housing body you can attach a Surefire A21 universal housing body to it along with a 6P clickie and you get a true 3in Surefire 3P parts.
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Policetacteam

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Jun 20, 2006
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Iowa
Very nice work! I wish I was even slightly mechanically inclined to do something like that. Very impressive.
 

Andrewr05

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Oct 15, 2008
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Perkinsville, VT
I am probably going to redo this very soon to make it a bit shorter and hopefully a lot better. We shall see. I like that its brighter, but aesthetically I am not very pleased with it. It just looks funny, and I know that I can do a better job. Once I make it better I will paint/cerakote it.
It looks good as far as I'm concerned.
I can see where your coming from though, the shorter it is the better it will look.


As I said before though it looks good and you did an awesome job on it, now lets see what "Pistol Light Mod V2.0" will look like.
:)
 
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