SF E1L [or L1] for Air Force mechanic?

So my future brother-in-law will be finishing his mechanics training with the Air Force soon and I thought that I would like to get him a bit of a graduation present--a SureFire.

So I've been putting a lot of thought into it and I've came to the E1L (3/45 Cree) along with a Z50 lanyard. Here are my thoughts on why it would be the correct choice:
- Small, easily pocketable
- Single cell 123; less risk of potential battery incidents
- Good runtime on both output levels (I'm not sure if he will be supplied with CR123 cells or if he will have to purchase them himself)
- LED means not having to worry about replacing lamps (I'm guessing this light might get dropped a good bit, but you never know )

Potential drawbacks:
- Lack of color rendition compared to SF incans
- 3/45 lumens might not be bright enough? :thinking:

My next choice for him would be the L1 for the higher output levels and UI. If the 10 lumen low would be sufficient for most tasks, then it would actually run longer than the E1L running on high most of the time. But then he wouldn't have the nice 3 lumen low option.

I've ruled out the E1B due to lack of knurling. I don't know if it would provide enough grip when he's working on things.

Decisions, decisions...


I would like some feedback from you guys on which SF light to get him. Any members previously in the Air Force or military who could shed some light on this would be greatly appreciated as well!

BTW, I will need to decide soon as he is returning home at the end of this week for 1 week, then back to base.

-Robert

somehow my preferance for a floody light like the Zebralight H501- floody, multi-stage & clip-able anglehead. i am no mechanic but my impression is that they work in fairly closed quarters. a bright spot (or dimmer 2nd stage) of light may not be too practical.

correct me if my impression is wrong or inaccurate. thanks in advance.

I'm with sore-eyez on this one. Having been a mechanic (not aircraft) working in tight quarters dealing with electronics, I would have preferred a small 6P sized light with a floody beam and multiple levels. When I was doing that kind of work (over 12 years ago), the only reasonable light in that size range was the Streamlight stinger, which is much longer than a 6P, but I needed a rechargeable light as it was constantly in use and I couldn't afford to spend the money of 123A primaries. There are just too many options now with non Surefire lights that are of equal or similar quality.

If you are able to look past the two cell worries, I would personally go with another brand especially if it may get dropped and banged around. For the single cell Surefires, I don't know of any that I own that provide a floody beam unless you change out the LED's. I have several older non-CREE L1's that have SSC P4's that have a very floody beam with the original optic.

If you just want the warranty Surefire offers, I'd get a 6P type light with an Malkoff M30 and if you can find the two stage tailcap for the C-series lights. That would be my perfect light as a mechanic or technician.

Apologies for the long post. I got a little carried away and thought I could provide some insight since I did that line of work and prayed for a more suitable light.

I wouldn't get either one, and would buy a suitable flashlight, not a brand name.
If you do buy him one of those, be sure to get the F04 diffuser. Those lights absolutely have to have it for close use.

The Zebralight H501 like sore-eyez suggested would be my choice, except I'd get the "w" version with a neutral emitter.
I say ask him what he'd use a light for. He may not even have a use for one on his job. If he does, he probably won't want one he has to hold in his hand while he's working.

I love the SureFire TIR optics for most uses, but they provide a beam that is just too focused for close-up work, so the diffuser as suggested above would be a good solution - then you get the best of both worlds, throw when you want it, flood when you want it. I find that when I'm working on something and have to set the flashlight down, a floody beam greatly helps illuminate the area compared to the loss of illumination from setting down a 'throwy' light on its side. My two lumens,

An L1 with a dumb mule head would be pretty cool.

computernut said:

- L1 has a larger diameter body which feels nicer in the hand than the E1L, plus the extra 1/2 inch helps too
- The twisty tail cap on the L1 allows you to lock the light on low and gives you access to high with a push of the tail cap.

Click to expand...

+1 & +1. My L1 feels WAY better in the hand than my E1 due to the slightly greater length. Also there is no finer tailswitch than the one on the L1, IMO.
K

I was just thinking of the perfect light if I was working on large machinery:

- Surefire G2L w/ FM34 Diffuser

The Nitrolon body will stand up to abuse more as I'm sure this thing will get dropped. The FM34 diffuser flips up out of the way and won't get lost like an F04. The one issue might be that it's 80 lumens, this might be too bright for close-up work, even with the diffuser. A G3L might be good too for longer life and a bit more grip. Going with an incan G2 will drop you to 65 lumens but really reduces your runtime. The incan might be more pleasant on the eyes for detailed work though.

I just MUST agree that the tailcap of the L1 LumaMax is the very best there is. I use this light as an inspection light(!) in electronics and besides the very cool light it produces, I have NO complaints about it. The low is exactly the right amount of light for close up work, and when more light is needed... one push is enough to create a really bright light.

for an inspection light you just DON'T need a floody light!! A tight, focused beam exactly where you want light is what you want in an inspection light... and that's exactly what the TIR optics produce.

In my opinion, you can't go wrong with an L1 LumaMax. In 9 out of 10 cases the low will shed enough light, so the battery will live long.

Mine fell on a concrete floor already, from about 2 or 3 feet height. Apart from a very small dent in the tailcap, nothing to worry about....

The only situation where you would like to have an INCAN is when you want to read dark brown engravings on black plastic semiconductors (ICs and transistors or MOSFETs).
"Oh, I just can't read it... let's take the light.... OOPS, now I don't see anything at all..."
This cool LED-light decreases contrast with dark colors, exactly the same reason why you don't want to use LED lights in the dark woods....
For this reason, I always have a second Surefire at hand, a C2 Centurion with my "own" Lumens Factory 8V / 500mA drop in. This one gives more light than I ever expected, and should be used from a little larger distance when used as an inspection light. Then it lights everything nice and even, and with the full color rendition any incan has

Maybe, it's best to imagine what color the items will have he is shining at. If these are very dark for most of the time, I would strongly suggest an incan.... but better not drop it then :shakehead

(pssst... shall I tell you a little secret of mine.... do you know what light is very good for these purposes? Yes.... it's the good old mini-MagLite AA! Despite being an AA-driven incan, it lights for about 5 hours, and is bright enough for nearly ALL close-up inspection work! I don't kid you!)


Timmo.

RobertM said:

So my future brother-in-law will be finishing his mechanics training with the Air Force soon and I thought that I would like to get him a bit of a graduation present--a SureFire.

So I've been putting a lot of thought into it and I've came to the E1L (3/45 Cree) along with a Z50 lanyard. Here are my thoughts on why it would be the correct choice:
- Small, easily pocketable
- Single cell 123; less risk of potential battery incidents
- Good runtime on both output levels (I'm not sure if he will be supplied with CR123 cells or if he will have to purchase them himself)
- LED means not having to worry about replacing lamps (I'm guessing this light might get dropped a good bit, but you never know )

Potential drawbacks:
- Lack of color rendition compared to SF incans
- 3/45 lumens might not be bright enough? :thinking:

My next choice for him would be the L1 for the higher output levels and UI. If the 10 lumen low would be sufficient for most tasks, then it would actually run longer than the E1L running on high most of the time. But then he wouldn't have the nice 3 lumen low option.

I've ruled out the E1B due to lack of knurling. I don't know if it would provide enough grip when he's working on things.

Decisions, decisions...


I would like some feedback from you guys on which SF light to get him. Any members previously in the Air Force or military who could shed some light on this would be greatly appreciated as well!

BTW, I will need to decide soon as he is returning home at the end of this week for 1 week, then back to base.

-Robert

Click to expand...

I'd buy him the SureFire L1 in a heartbeat! Get him the F04 Diffuser as well, you can't go wrong with this choice.

If you could wait for the release of the LX1 it would be even better...

I just met an aircraft mechanic yesterday, and he was carrying a JETbeam Raptor RRT-1. He's not into lights, just need one for his work. So I guess it's throw that they are looking for. You don't carry such a big light for fun. =D

I'd say the L1 is the best here! Awesome switch and awesome durability, just the right size to boot!

And if he needs it to throw like a crazy thing, you can drive it with a RCR123 3.7V. Then it will produce more than 200 Lumens and still have a "low". =) My friend's been running it this way without problems.

The diffuser will make everything good! =D

Well, with 12 years in, there are a few "rules" to consider for your brother in law...

1. Personal tools are not allowed on the flightline (including lights)
2. We're required to use "assigned tool kits", including lights...
3. If personal tools are allowed, they would have to be etched with persoanl info...

That being said, I'd recommend a C2 or a G2L with a Malkoff M30 and an FM34 like computernut mentioned...an m60 is way to bright to work on the smaller, more compressed fighter craft. Not that the L1 is a bad light (I have mine), or wouldn't work for the job, but since he wouldn't be able to use it day-to-day, not with-out getting in trouble, the C2 with it's longer clip fits better in the pockets of the ABU's, and he would get more use out if during deployments, etc. Either would be great for him, but I think a C2 would see more actual use.

If he were allowed to use it, he would have to etch his info it, so it might be better getting him a G2L with the same accessories mentioned above, as it would be easier to etch, and when he got a different assignment, he would just have to replace the tailcap, and not the whole light. I've had to etch 3 of my SF's, and the nitrolon is definitely alot easier. If you do go the G2L route, I'd get him a Spec-Ops light holster in grey to match his uniform.

Hope this helps, and tell him thanks for wanting to serve!

First, a big thanks to everyone who has replied so far! It looks like the L1 would be the light to get.

angelofwar said:

Well, with 12 years in, there are a few "rules" to consider for your brother in law...

1. Personal tools are not allowed on the flightline (including lights)
2. We're required to use "assigned tool kits", including lights...
3. If personal tools are allowed, they would have to be etched with persoanl info...

That being said, I'd recommend a C2 or a G2L with a Malkoff M30 and an FM34 like computernut mentioned...an m60 is way to bright to work on the smaller, more compressed fighter craft. Not that the L1 is a bad light (I have mine), or wouldn't work for the job, but since he wouldn't be able to use it day-to-day, not with-out getting in trouble, the C2 with it's longer clip fits better in the pockets of the ABU's, and he would get more use out if during deployments, etc. Either would be great for him, but I think a C2 would see more actual use.

If he were allowed to use it, he would have to etch his info it, so it might be better getting him a G2L with the same accessories mentioned above, as it would be easier to etch, and when he got a different assignment, he would just have to replace the tailcap, and not the whole light. I've had to etch 3 of my SF's, and the nitrolon is definitely alot easier. If you do go the G2L route, I'd get him a Spec-Ops light holster in grey to match his uniform.

Hope this helps, and tell him thanks for wanting to serve!

Click to expand...

This is disappointing to hear, but extremely helpful! Thank you very much for taking the time to post this info. If he were to have to etch his info into his light, what all information is needed? Out of curiosity, what lights are issued to them?

Thanks again,
Robert

RobertM said:

First, a big thanks to everyone who has replied so far! It looks like the L1 would be the light to get.



This is disappointing to hear, but extremely helpful! Thank you very much for taking the time to post this info. If he were to have to etch his info into his light, what all information is needed? Out of curiosity, what lights are issued to them?

Thanks again,
Robert

Click to expand...

Each units do it there own way...there are alot of fultons, and M@G's are popular as well (sigh), as well as pelicans. As far as etching, he would get a 5 digit "Employ #" at his first assignment, with that and his name, so it would be etched something like "J. Doe, 12345", and then he would have to get it re-done when he got a new assignment, but as long as it's done on the Tail Caps, G2 or 6P tailcaps can be had on the MP for $10-$18. The L1 is definitley a nicer light, and he should find plenty of use for it though. But I would DEFINITELY get the F04 diffuser, as it really doubles the usefullness of the light. My L1 w/ F04 goes with me on all my deploymnts.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I went ahead and ordered an L1 for him. Even if he can't use it on the flight-line, it should still be a great all-around EDC light wherever he gets stationed or deployed to.

Thanks again for all the help!

-Robert

In our company, which is also doing aircraft maintenance, a lot of people are really happy with DX 2-Mode P7 MTE Lights.
I also carry one of these (but with 8 modes, however), they aren't really expensive, so it doesn't hurt when you drop it, and the light is enough to do an aircraft walkaround at night...I would'nt spent so much money for a light you work with, because it still is only work and the lights mte has, are really reliable. Even if heatsinking one some of them is a bit of playing in the lottery, but none of the 30 i sold yet, has completely failed...

I'm an aircraft mechanic (ctr) for the USCG. I use a Surefire G2L daily and really like it. As mentioned the light has to be etched w/ my last four (ssn) and initials. I like the G2L because it's plenty bright and has a nice doughnut in the center to help me point things out that I can't easily reach. All of our QA's were just issued these same lights which meant the tool room started carrying the CR123's (read this as free batteries).

With that said, eventually I am going to change to a Malkoff MD2 w/ the high/low bezel switch and a M60 drop-in. I like the G2L but sometimes the 80 lumens is too much light. The twist for constant on tail cap can be annoying when I only have one hand free. The only downside to the MD2 is no anti-roll bezel.

Sorry for adding another option but I don't have hands on experience w/ the E1L or L1.

Just a quick update:

The weekend before last I gave him the L1. He was quite surprised and excited to receive this gift. A few days later I ran into him and his wife out shopping and my fiancée asked him how he likes it. He said, "What light...you mean this one?!" and pulls the L1 out of his pocked (keep in mind it is daytime). Then his wife proceeded to tell us how he has been shining it at everything and everyone. He told us that he is amazed at how useful having a good light is and all the uses he is finding for it.

It looks like a new flashaholic in the making. :thumbsup:

-Robert

Nice gift, good job. :thumbsup: