I have done a few variations on the NewBeam in an E1e but now with the E-can, this mod is getting close to being simple, IMHO.
The NewBeam fits down in the counter bore ledge of the E-can as if it had been designed for it. I used an old proto PCB of Dat2zip's for the anode contact and this PCB had a perimeter ring of copper which allowed it to be soldered to the back side lip of the E-can. Two short wire leads soldered to anode and cathode of board and NewBeam and the connections were done. Arctic Alumina was used for additional structural integrity as well as gluing the NB into the E-can. A piece of 3/4" OD tubing was used as a standoff and the E-bezel was bored out to .630" (a 5/8" drill and bit of rat tail file work would also open the hole from .625" to .630").
I want to get with Wayne to see if we can't get some generic anode/ cathode PCB made for the E-can. Such a simple PCB will not only work for the NB but likely the Micro Puck and other drivers and simple resistive circuits. One could even do DD but don't tell Charlie. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
- Don
The NewBeam fits down in the counter bore ledge of the E-can as if it had been designed for it. I used an old proto PCB of Dat2zip's for the anode contact and this PCB had a perimeter ring of copper which allowed it to be soldered to the back side lip of the E-can. Two short wire leads soldered to anode and cathode of board and NewBeam and the connections were done. Arctic Alumina was used for additional structural integrity as well as gluing the NB into the E-can. A piece of 3/4" OD tubing was used as a standoff and the E-bezel was bored out to .630" (a 5/8" drill and bit of rat tail file work would also open the hole from .625" to .630").
I want to get with Wayne to see if we can't get some generic anode/ cathode PCB made for the E-can. Such a simple PCB will not only work for the NB but likely the Micro Puck and other drivers and simple resistive circuits. One could even do DD but don't tell Charlie. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
- Don