Why one of my most pricy headlamps is relegated to th bedside: Zebralight fans beware

carrot

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I caved not too long ago and bought a Zebralight on the recommendations of others here.

(Caved, as in gave in, not going caving, in this case.)

I thought that the mass consensus had to be right: they were right about many of the other lights I have purchased on recommendation.

I got an H31Fw. I specifically picked it because people crowed about how good the neutral white tint was for the outdoors, because I love flood, and because I expected to be using it in all manner of weather conditions, including extreme cold.

It is not going to be seeing any of these.

This past year I have been fortunate enough to be graced with the company of many people who share my enthusiasm for what I might deem "extreme outdoors appreciation." We're talking 20 mile day hikes on rugged terrain, often with at least a few of those miles by artificial light alone, not even my more technical pursuits of mountain biking and rock climbing.

This has meant that headlamps have become an even more important part of my kit. I have been testing all manner of headlamps from the high end to the low end. Often, I will have to lend out one or more headlamps out to my hiking group, as though they are already prepared in many other ways, including emergency gear and extra clothing, they are still Unenlightened. It also fortunately means that I get to see a lot of headlamps in action, and that I get to evaluate them on a long-use basis, which is often difficult to orchestrate otherwise.

All of the headlamps that I have used from traditional headlamp manufacturers (mostly of the 3xAAA style) pass with flying colors. Unfortunately, the Zebralight H31Fw does not, and I am very disappointed, as I had high hopes for it, being both lightweight and powerful.

Here is why:
Headlamps are often used for quite lengthy periods of time, as it is natural for the user to simply forget that the illumination so conveniently provided is emitted by an electronic device on his head, as well as simply being needed for such lengths.

As such, the Zebralight H31Fw does not offer sufficient runtime, as rated on the official website. 0.9 hours or 2 hours on high is simply unacceptable. Its greatest feature, high output, is also its greatest downside! Now, of course this can be mitigated by simply using it on medium, for 12 or 23 hours. Unfortunately, there is no way to make medium the default output level, as a single click (the easiest action) immediately goes to high, and the way to access the lower modes (long click or double click) requires far more dexterity of cold fingers.

This incredibly low runtime or poor UI decision (depending on your point of view) would be pretty much quite acceptable if not for the worse side of it: there are no low battery indicators, and if the battery is low enough the light won't even turn on, even if it was working minutes before!

This has happened twice now to me in actual use, and is pretty much repeatable with every low battery I have in my used cells bin.

Let me relate to you my most recent dayhike this weekend, a leisurely 15 mile hike that ran for several hours after dusk. We are wearing headlamps and we reach the top of a mountain, a nice bald peak with low trees and a great clear view of the sky. We drop our packs, grab some snacks, and turn off our headlamps to enjoy the beautiful night sky, to observe the light pollution from the city, and to save battery power.

At this point, my Zebralight H31Fw had been running on medium (M1/37lm) for a couple of hours and seemed to have no sign of stopping, still putting out ample light. I shut it off to save battery power and enjoy the cool dark night.

A few moments later, we finish our snacks and decide it's time to move on. She clicks on her Tikka 2 (a loaner) and I click on my H31Fw. Nothing happens. I click it again. More nothing. And again. Nothing.

At this point, I realize what has happened. The battery has fallen in voltage, either by cold weather or by usage, below the headlamp's regulator circuit's necessary startup voltage. The startup voltage, like in many smarter or regulated lights, is higher than the necessary voltage to keep the light running. Effectively it means the battery is dead, as far as the headlamp is concerned.

At this point, I am frustrated. I assumed that I'd have enough runtime to finish this hike safely because there was no sign of low battery. I stow the Zebralight.

Luckily, I have a second headlamp in my pack, my new Black Diamond Spot that I have been testing. I click it on. The battery meter blinks red, indicating that it is very low on batteries. I'd been using it a lot the past few weeks, walking around the house as well as adventures on the weekends. It's dim, dimmer than the Tikka 2 on a used but still relatively new set of batteries, but thanks to the throwy lens setup it's enough that I can continue to lead the way back to the trailhead. We sling our packs and go.

I count the batteries in my head mentally. I still have two spare AAs for my GPS. I still have four CR123s for my Surefire L1 and Zebralight H31Fw. I still have my rechargeable Petzl Tikka XP2 CORE and three spare AAAs for that (or the BD Spot, or the Tikka2). But changing batteries is an extra hassle I'd rather avoid.

Which brings me to my last problem. Changing batteries. On the Zebralight it is a hassle, perhaps even a liability to change batteries. You don't want to get any water inside, right? So you have to stop what you're doing, fumble around in the dark to find your spare batteries, and then fumble around some more to put a new battery in and screw the cap on. Hold on a second! Where'd you put the cap? The cap's gone! You've dropped it in a stream, off a cliff, down the trail. The battery cap is too easy to lose because it is not attached!

Normally this is not a big issue for me. Pretty much every flashlight has a detachable battery cap. The Surefire Saint Minimus has a detachable battery cap. This is just nitpicking right? Wrong. That's the last problem, and it compounds on the other two, which combined, make the Zebralight totally unsuitable for my needs. In other words, the last straw.

On all other headlamps I have used, you are given ample warning that your battery is going to die. How this situation is presented to you ranges from the cleverly minimal to the incredibly complex. Some simply dim down when the batteries run dry. Others have power indicators. Some do both!

This is actually the most important feature of a headlamp: being given the opportunity to milk the batteries as long as possible, until YOU are ready to replace them, not until the headlamp is ready (read: can't turn on) to replace them. This lets you get done safely with whatever you were doing and swap the batteries at the most opportune time for you to do so.

It is incredibly important for some uses of a headlamp that you not be forced to replace the batteries at any given point. You should be able to do it at your convenience. That means you don't need to change your headlamp's batteries when you are up to your chest in water. You don't need to change your batteries when you are hanging on a cliff face (climbers hate to be forced down in the middle of a climb!). You don't need to change your batteries when you are cold and tired and your fingers are numb because you've been hiking in the cold, wet, dark weather for the past few hours.

I do concede that the Zebralight is lightweight, powerful, well-made, and aesthetically pleasing with a fairly intuitive user interface. However, the above problems combined are too much for me to overlook.

A few notes on other qualms:
In my experience thus far, the neutral white tint does not give me anything special for hiking. Yes, it is nicer to look at things with it. No, it doesn't help me see the trail better, or obstacles I encounter, or even noticeably add contrast to the world around me. Hi CRI, on the other hand, as tested with the HDS EDC Hi-CRI P4, does make a difference, a notable one in fact. My fault for not waiting for the H31c to come out. Do I recommend a "w" model? Maybe. Things do look better, but only up close, like, in my hands close. At any distance, I could hardly tell the difference between neutral-white and cool-white LEDs. I still felt like I was "walking on the moon."

The flood is lovely for seeing the trail directly ahead of your feet, and beautiful for reading maps. However, there is simply not enough throw with the frosted glass to see trail markers and blazes ahead of you, nor enough to get a good sense of your surroundings. My fault for picking an H**F model. Do I recommend an F model? Yes, but not for hiking blazed or wooded trails where the path ahead may be non-obvious.

The silicone holder feels weird on my head. I don't like to wear the Zebralight without a hat under it. With the hat, however, I could care less how weird the silicone holder is.

For these, YMMV. Under the conditions I used my lights in, this was my direct observation.

One last note that is guaranteed to come up in response:
"You should use rechargeables so that you are always guaranteed a minimum runtime from the start." -- I will try them as soon as I can find some of my RCR123s. They seem to have all grown legs and disappeared. It still doesn't fully mitigate the problems.

"You should use the AA version" -- No. I always use my Eneloops in mated pairs and as for primaries, the temptation is too great to use alkalines over the much more expensive lithiums. And everyone knows that alkalines are the #1 source of grief amongst new flashaholics.

TL;DR:
My H31Fw has four problems, of which each alone would not be cause for major concern, but combined, cause serve to make the light unsuitable for my needs.

These concerns are:
- Runtime (on the default setting) is way too low
- No low battery warnings
- Startup voltage of circuit is too high: light can be running fine and will not turn back on if turned off
- Battery cap is not tethered or otherwise permanently attached

PS:
As some solace to Zebralight lovers, I will no longer complain about past quality control or reliability issues as perceived or reported, since I cannot say the same from experience.

PPS:
To Zebralight, if you are listening: If you correct my top three issues, I'll buy more headlamps from you. Seriously, no grudge here. If they are taken care of, an H31c would shoot to the top of my favorite headlamps list pretty quickly.
 
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pblanch

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Very Comprehensive, Thank you.

I also love my ZL and have a H51 (AA) and the pre order SC600 (18650) so without the pre step. I would also like to be able to run a 123 (and AA non rechargable) batteries down to nothing as they are expensive - but I believe there is a risk in that as I am led to believe (maybe when put in series). Hopefully the SC80 may have had that looked at.

As for the UI, I have gotten used to it so is not a problem. Its good to here some constructive criticism as ZL I believe listen to it.
 

carrot

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i guess this means that you have nimh chargers that only charge in pairs?
Yes. I still have not bothered to get a charger with individual charging bays because my Sanyo charger has treated me well this far. Plus, everything I own uses AA batteries in pairs: GPS, Wii, Xbox, keyboard, mouse...
 

robostudent5000

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Yes. I still have not bothered to get a charger with individual charging bays because my Sanyo charger has treated me well this far. Plus, everything I own uses AA batteries in pairs: GPS, Wii, Xbox, keyboard, mouse...

considering how many 3xAAA headlamps you have, i think you'd benefit from a 4 channel charger and some AAA Eneloops (Costco 12 for $20). i can tell you from experience that it will actually change the way you use your headlamps for the better. the biggest change for me is that i use my headlamps around the house and yard a lot more than i used to. the second biggest change is that i start every outing with freshly charged batteries and i can do it guilt free. no more fussing about with half used alkalines and fretting because they still had juice left. no more of that baby! i'm always at full charge!

regarding the Zebra's, i've gotten the impression that the H51 doesn't have the same sudden cutoff problem that the H31 has. i think i've read that the H51 steps down from hi to medium and dims a little before it dies. H51 owners, please correct me if i'm wrong.

if true, it would be consistent with every AA v. CR123 light that i've owned. all my regulated AA lights begin to dim noticeably and give me some warning before they cut off. and even after it cuts off, if i just let it sit for a few seconds, i can turn it back on for a minute or at least long enough for me to find the backup light and spare batteries in my pack.

all the CR123 lights i've owned just cutoff without notice and stay dead. it happened to me enough times with my old Princeton Tec Apex Pro that i swore off using any CR123 based headlamps and flashlights. i think it's a problem that's almost inherent to the chemistry.
 

gcbryan

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Given the way you have defined your requirements I'm surprised you bought the Zebralight. It's a single battery headlamp and that seems to be an issue for you.

I have a few solutions (for myself). I have two Zebralights (H51 and H51f). They are light weight and easy to carry. One at a minimum serves as a spare battery carrier. If one dies I have another right in my pocket ready to go (REI nylon pants with cargo pockets). When I just carry one I always have a spare battery in my pocket or somewhere easier to get to than in the bottom of my pack.

Mine has some warning but the main warning is that you can't use it on high. If you aren't using it on high at all (or using that as a battery check) it could sneak up on you.

It's so much smaller to wear on my head than a traditional 3 AAA headlamp that it's worth it to me although I have a Storm as well. I have a two battery charger for NIMH as well but I don't see that as a problem. I use one AA in the headlamp and one as the backup battery and charge them both at the same time.

The H51f generally lets me see far enough ahead but when it doesn't the Storm doesn't either. I have a small aspheric thrower I carry just for spotting. I don't see a big advantage to tint either at a distance as long as the LED in question isn't excessively blue or green in the first place. If it is (and most of mine aren't) I fix it with a filter.

Getting to medium on my Zebralight is easier than getting to medium on my Storm and is more or less the same as on my EOS. EOS requires 2 clicks to get to medium. So does the Zebralight. Or if your fingers are cold just press until medium comes up.

I'm not saying that Zebralight should be "right" for you. I'm just commenting on how I deal with some of those same issues. To me changing the batteries can be easily done with my eyes closed. I'd much rather change batteries in the Zebralight than in any of my other headlamps (EOS and Storm). It's a real pain in the Storm to find 4 AAA batteries and orient them correctly and only a little easier in the EOS. Certainly it's harder to open either the Storm or EOS to put the batteries in.

The beam angle adjustment is also much better (IMO) as there is no leverage action going on as with the hinge system. The head strap is also much lighter (since the light is lighter and smaller) which also makes it much easier to carry a spare headlamp in your pocket.

From my limited experience with CR123's it does seem that they die more suddenly than other types but that may just be my experience.
 
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simples

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I caved not too long ago and bought a Zebralight on the recommendations of others here.

Sadly, that wasn't great advice. Zebralights are excellent little flashlights. I have one and it's ideal for my back pocket and stumbling home from the bar, but it's no more a proper hard caving lamp than a Fenix HP, Myo XP, PT Apex, Spark, etc. Don't get me wrong, they are OK for flashlight cavers, giving to the children, or even proper expedition stuff where you might spend more time looking for caves than actually in them; but if used for caving should be considered mostly sacrificial. Anyone who tells you otherwise is not caving hard enough or frequently enough :duh2:

2 or 3 purpose built caving lamps exist, but due to the obviously limited market, these are hand built (outside of China) with high quality part and in low volumes. Consequently they cost a fair amount. They also generally have machined aluminium bodies and 2 LEDs, one for distance and one with no focussing to light up your immediate surroundings.

The last mass market headlamp built largely for caving was the Petzl Duo. It's still a really good durable lamp, but is now far from up to date in light output / LEDs. However a number of good LED upgrades exist. The Petzl Pixa is a new work light for harsh environments, that could prove to be cave robust, but lacks output and the ergonomics / battery arrangement (on main body of lamp rather than back of helmet) are probably going to rule it out.
 

Anonnn

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Thanks for your good thoughts.

At this point, my Zebralight H31Fw had been running on medium (M1/37lm) for a couple of hours and seemed to have no sign of stopping, still putting out ample light...A few moments later...I click on my H31Fw. Nothing happens. I click it again. More nothing. And again. Nothing.

I hear your point on this and even agree with you to an extent, yet I struggle to place this attribute wholly in the "problem" or "defect" category. Let me explain. Zebralight has achieved an output stability that no other manufacturer has yet been able to match. In other words, Zebralight has figured out a way to make their lights that contain almost dead batteries just as bright as they were when those batteries were fresh. There's no warning for you by way of a dim light, but we cannot overlook that this is because of a fantastic technological breakthrough. While partially inconvenient for your application, to only look at one side of the figurative coin and fault a company for what we would otherwise praise them for is somewhat unbalanced (although understandable) from my perspective. I think you were otherwise fair in what you said. I can still see this trait as a partially negative one for a headlamp to possess; I would just like to mention it in conjunction with its positive counterpart -- steady output -- and to acknowledge that the people at Zebralight have placed this extra burden on themselves by achieving such excellent regulatory functionality in their lights. Perhaps Zebralight was overzealous in releasing this technology, but in the process of evolving and improving in which Zebralight currently finds itself, hopefully the people there will account for this drawback in the future with a battery meter or by some other means.
 

Dsoto87

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I don't understand why you bought this light having high hopes when all your qualms with it are readily known before purchase.

Did you really buy a single cell cr123 light expecting huge output AND extreme runtime... at the same time?

I really can't comment on not being able to double press to get to medium in extremely cold weather but what type of mode switching do you prefer?

I guess it would be nice to have some type of attachment for the tailcap but it's really not THAT hard to change a single cell light while holding the tailcap.

I'm not saying you must like the ZL, but I don't understand why you purchased it when all your problems with it are clearly advertised (or not ie: low voltage cutoff).
 

degarb

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The OP echo's my reservations with zebra: runtime, instant shutoff, barely enough lux to do job, price. Still, the group seems to have a religious fervor for them due to the state of art leds they include, when they only fill one niche of the headlamp spectrum.

That still doesn't kill my curiosity about some possible use of this seemingly useless for factor of the zebralight. I really would like about 250 throwy lumens on head for 8 to 10 hours without too much weight, battery changes (customer and worker concerns)....Hp11 + some 150 lumen/watt 3watt hour 1 aa or 14500.

In short, why not just get the xeno e03 instead of zebra? Just glue some velcro on it and my hp11 band, or buy the elastic velco strap (for rolled towels or head) band that is premade and available in fabric department of all Wallmart. (competitor are thrunite and fenix) I wasted hours on reviews and videos on the e03, but my gut told me it would be a waste of 40 bucks since I probably needed at least 100 lumen for 3 hours, which these inefficient drivers cannot do even with 150 lumen per watt emitters and 3.5 watt hour batteries. Finally, I found a good video review, where it showed the e03 really sucked with the xml and only 1aa. With an 14500 it at least gets 2 hours at 120 lumens. But then you need about 4 cells, plus a few extra, and two or more chargers, pushing up cost around 80.

I think if I waste my money on a tiny, inefficient, weak thrower, short runtime light, just mostly for a test and kicks, I will go with the fandyfire, at half price or less. [link removed - DM51]
 
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Zenbaas

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The OP echo's my reservations with zebra: runtime, instant shutoff, barely enough lux to do job, price. Still, the group seems to have a religious fervor for them due to the state of art leds they include, when they only fill one niche of the headlamp spectrum.

That still doesn't kill my curiosity about some possible use of this seemingly useless for factor of the zebralight. I really would like about 250 throwy lumens on head for 8 to 10 hours without too much weight, battery changes (customer and worker concerns)....Hp11 + some 150 lumen/watt 3watt hour 1 aa or 14500.

In short, why not just get the xeno e03 instead of zebra? Just glue some velcro on it and my hp11 band, or buy the elastic velco strap (for rolled towels or head) band that is premade and available in fabric department of all Wallmart. (competitor are thrunite and fenix) I wasted hours on reviews and videos on the e03, but my gut told me it would be a waste of 40 bucks since I probably needed at least 100 lumen for 3 hours, which these inefficient drivers cannot do even with 150 lumen per watt emitters and 3.5 watt hour batteries. Finally, I found a good video review, where it showed the e03 really sucked with the xml and only 1aa. With an 14500 it at least gets 2 hours at 120 lumens. But then you need about 4 cells, plus a few extra, and two or more chargers, pushing up cost around 80.

I think if I waste my money on a tiny, inefficient, weak thrower, short runtime light, just mostly for a test and kicks, I will go with the fandyfire, at half price or less. [link removed - DM51]


As other have said, getting a single CR123 light and then moaning about runtime shortfalls while still expecting good lumen output probably isn't the smartest thing to do ;) Why not then just get something like the newly released H600 (18650) which will have loads more runtime and excellent brightness as well..?

Now as for your suggestion on the E03. Runtimes are loads better on an aa battery than on a 14500. Even on the lowest output it will only last for 2 1/2 hours which looks almost exactly the same as the medium mode on an eneloop which will run for roughly 4 hours. Point is, it's a good light but doesn't perform on 14500's for anything other than the "wow" factor. Also the ZL's have great runtimes from what I've seen. You just need to make sure that the one you pick will suit the purpose and not the other way around.
 
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B0wz3r

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Carrot,

other posts have already addressed most of the things you've said. What strikes me is that you don't see an advantage to the neutral emitter outdoors. I think I know why.

Normally, a neutral tint adds to depth perception, but wearing a headlamp can cancel that out. The closer the light to your line of sight, the fewer shadows you will see, creating more tunnel vision. You get much less monocular depth information as a result. Stereoscopic depth information isn't affected as much, but it actually plays much less of a role in our depth perception that most people realize. The effect of improved depth perception is increased as you move the light farther away from your line of sight, because the increase in the tangent between your eyes and the angle of the light creates more shadow information for depth perception.
 

Illum

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well, in the field expediting hikes that could take more than one day, one can't hope that wherever he ends up in will have access to charge batteries, Li-ions are quite an investment and it is potentially damaging to leave a li-ion in depleted mode for several days before charging. They are intended to replace the daily usage of lithium primaries in regions where the grid is easily accessible, not so much for outdoor/rough use unless you are intent on carrying a portable charger [unnecessary weight].

Usually if I'll be outdoors for more than just a day event, I usually will have more than one light clipped on my belt that could be turned into a headlight. A pair of ITP H01s for example. Once you get over the unreliability issues they are actually pretty handy, as a belt light on low. Compliments nicely to my Zebra H05, also kept on low. I always assume there will be a need to replace batteries in the field. I found a large plastic bag to come in very handy, as it seems to work well when I tried to change the batteries of several lights while sitting in the shower stall with the water on.

Carrot, what about your SF Saint, you didn't bring that?
 

gcbryan

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Just giving you a hard time Carrot but I think the title of your original post should have been "I knew I wouldn't like it and I didn't" :)

I will agree that I would prefer that it fall out of regulation when there is still some battery power left but not like the Storm which falls out of regulation after the FIRST 25% is used up.

The case can be made for no regulation of course but if you are going to have it then it should be in effect until closer to the end than that (IMO).
 
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ryguy24000

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Sounds like you need a back up light or a multi battery runner or both. No offense Carrot, but This doesn't sound like a flashlight problem more like a preparation problem. I mean what did you expect from one single cell light? I understand your frustrations with your "top three" issues form a ZL, but did you do a "TRIAL RUN" first before you ventured off trail?! I mean come on! we don't need another top news story of a missing hiker lost or dead because of a simple gear issue that could have been avoided if the hiker was familiar with the gear they were using. Your purposely putting yourself in a potential bad situation and your not familiar with your gear. HUH:sssh:
I know from my back country experiences that I try and "not" rely on one piece of equipment. For example next week I'll go with My stepfather on a week long Elk hunting trip. Yeah yeah just a couple of redneck hicks right. We'll set up camp at 6000 feet here in the rugged Wenaha/Walla Walla river drainage. Believe me when hiking in this area of the country at this time of year you go prepared. I won't go without taking at least two methods of making a fire....and i know they work because I tried them already!
 

Vesper

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Some good hands-on observations and some great counter-points too.

I find I use my Zebralight exclusively around camp, and my Princeton Tec on the trails. Each absolutely have their strengths and weaknesses (like all lights).
 

robostudent5000

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Mar 15, 2011
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877
The OP echo's my reservations with zebra: runtime, instant shutoff, barely enough lux to do job, price. Still, the group seems to have a religious fervor for them due to the state of art leds they include, when they only fill one niche of the headlamp spectrum.

That still doesn't kill my curiosity about some possible use of this seemingly useless for factor of the zebralight. I really would like about 250 throwy lumens on head for 8 to 10 hours without too much weight, battery changes (customer and worker concerns)....Hp11 + some 150 lumen/watt 3watt hour 1 aa or 14500.

In short, why not just get the xeno e03 instead of zebra? Just glue some velcro on it and my hp11 band, or buy the elastic velco strap (for rolled towels or head) band that is premade and available in fabric department of all Wallmart. (competitor are thrunite and fenix) I wasted hours on reviews and videos on the e03, but my gut told me it would be a waste of 40 bucks since I probably needed at least 100 lumen for 3 hours, which these inefficient drivers cannot do even with 150 lumen per watt emitters and 3.5 watt hour batteries. Finally, I found a good video review, where it showed the e03 really sucked with the xml and only 1aa. With an 14500 it at least gets 2 hours at 120 lumens. But then you need about 4 cells, plus a few extra, and two or more chargers, pushing up cost around 80.

I think if I waste my money on a tiny, inefficient, weak thrower, short runtime light, just mostly for a test and kicks, I will go with the fandyfire, at half price or less. [link removed - DM51]

this entire post kind of threw me for a loop. i don't think anyone who knows what they're doing gets a current Zebra headlamp expecting big throw or long runtimes at high output as they just weren't made for that. if that's what you want, you're barking up the wrong tree.

in one of the Fenix HP11 threads someone kept saying that he thought the HP11 was useless because it didn't meet his needs and he couldn't imagine why anyone would get it over a Zebra. that kind of "my point of view is the only one that matters" type of thinking is crap and i called him on it, and saying that Zebras are useless because they don't meet your particular needs is equally crappy.

it's like two car guys, one with a Porsche 911 one with a Range Rover, telling each other that the other is stupid for not wanting/needing what the other guy has. how stupid is that!? the two cars were built to do two totally different things!
 
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