ahorton
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2008
- Messages
- 715
I've spent a lot of time turning cheap Chinese flashlights into aspheric throwers, so I decided to build the light I really wanted from the ground up.
I call it the Handspike
I start with a little slug of copper with a raised section exactly the size of a Cree XP thermal pad.
Add a little solder, an XP-C Q4 and heat on the stove until it reflows.
Turn it upside down and solder some leads onto the exposed XP-C pads. Then feed the leads through holes in a copper pill.
Add a little thermal paste and screw it in from the back with M2 screws.
Add a 17mm driver (4x7135 in this case) and screw the assembly into an annodised 7075 aluminium body.
Pick a colour (Red, Blue, Black) and an aspheric head size (27mm or 66mm).
And that's how I make a Handspike.
Some extra details:
McClicky in the tail.
18650 in the tube.
2.6 mm orings throughout (2 for head, 2 for tail, 1 for lens).
Triple thread on head and tube for fast flood - spot adjustment.
Room in the pill for epoxy and glow powder.
Holes in tail for a cord or lanyard.
Tailstands
I can also make extra pills with Cree XM and XR packages.
With 3 LED options, 2 lens sizes and 3 colours, I can play dress-ups all night!
It's a pretty simple body. No branding, just a nice aggressive knurl on the head, body and tail
So far I've just assembled one pill with the XP-C at 1.4A and I'm pretty happy with it. I'm getting almost double the intensity I used to get out of an XR-E at 1.05A on an MCPCB (both using the same 27mm lens).
It all went together quicker than modifying a Chinese torch and the end result is much better anyway. The main advantages are the forward clicky, great thermal path, big orings and a flood-to-spot in half a turn of the head.
I can also use the copper slugs in a P60 pill to improve the thermal path. The direct solder to copper is essential with the XP-C.
No beamshots. You all know what an XR-E aspheric beam looks like and Saabluster has shown off the XP-C.
I call it the Handspike
I start with a little slug of copper with a raised section exactly the size of a Cree XP thermal pad.
Add a little solder, an XP-C Q4 and heat on the stove until it reflows.
Turn it upside down and solder some leads onto the exposed XP-C pads. Then feed the leads through holes in a copper pill.
Add a little thermal paste and screw it in from the back with M2 screws.
Add a 17mm driver (4x7135 in this case) and screw the assembly into an annodised 7075 aluminium body.
Pick a colour (Red, Blue, Black) and an aspheric head size (27mm or 66mm).
And that's how I make a Handspike.
Some extra details:
McClicky in the tail.
18650 in the tube.
2.6 mm orings throughout (2 for head, 2 for tail, 1 for lens).
Triple thread on head and tube for fast flood - spot adjustment.
Room in the pill for epoxy and glow powder.
Holes in tail for a cord or lanyard.
Tailstands
I can also make extra pills with Cree XM and XR packages.
With 3 LED options, 2 lens sizes and 3 colours, I can play dress-ups all night!
It's a pretty simple body. No branding, just a nice aggressive knurl on the head, body and tail
So far I've just assembled one pill with the XP-C at 1.4A and I'm pretty happy with it. I'm getting almost double the intensity I used to get out of an XR-E at 1.05A on an MCPCB (both using the same 27mm lens).
It all went together quicker than modifying a Chinese torch and the end result is much better anyway. The main advantages are the forward clicky, great thermal path, big orings and a flood-to-spot in half a turn of the head.
I can also use the copper slugs in a P60 pill to improve the thermal path. The direct solder to copper is essential with the XP-C.
No beamshots. You all know what an XR-E aspheric beam looks like and Saabluster has shown off the XP-C.
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