Second D25C. Still no 3.7v and turbo after 15 secs.

fredted40x · May 14, 2013

Hi.

I have just received a replacement Eagletac D25C as the original wouldn't accept 3.7v and the turbo would only last 15 seconds instead of the 200.

I now have a second different make charger and four batteries so think I can count them out.

Is there anything I can try?

Thanks

jonnyfgroove · May 14, 2013

Cheap or tired batteries would be my first guess.

fredted40x · May 14, 2013

Sorry forgot to add.

Everything is brand new.

Three different makes of batteries

kj2 · May 14, 2013

fredted40x said:
Three different makes of batteries

and which brands are those?

fredted40x · May 14, 2013

Eagletac, Tenergy. And cytac.

One of the Chargers is a nitecore, can't remember the other.

Brought the nitecore charger a few days ago encase the other charger was duff.

Edit. Just unscrewed the switch end and screwed back on ad it flickered with the 3.7v but everything else is the same

kj2 · May 14, 2013

fredted40x said:
Eagletac, Tenergy. And cytac.

One of the Chargers is a nitecore, can't remember the other.

Brought the nitecore charger a few days ago encase the other charger was duff.

Edit. Just unscrewed the switch end and screwed back on ad it flickered with the 3.7v but everything else is the same

I don't think you get two times a faulty driver, so think it's something with the connection or with the battery. Can you check the voltage of the batteries in some way?
Are the threads and connection-points clean?

fredted40x · May 14, 2013

kj2 said:
I don't think you get two times a faulty driver, so think it's something with the connection or with the battery. Can you check the voltage of the batteries in some way?
Are the threads and connection-points clean?

Yeah seems strange.

Have just cleaned the threads with cotton wall so they are shiny shiny now.

When putting the head back on with the switch on sometimes it works with the head only half a turn in and then stops working when you continue to screw.

kj2 · May 14, 2013

fredted40x said:
Yeah seems strange.

Have just cleaned the threads with cotton wall so they are shiny shiny now.

When putting the head back on with the switch on sometimes it works with the head only half a turn in and then stops working when you continue to screw.

I would recommend that you make a video about this and send it to Eagletac. (and kindly post it here also, so we all can see it and find a solution

)

fredted40x · May 14, 2013

Will try and figure out when it turns on wheb your screwing it in and do a video when I can work it out.

It doesn't flash any more with the 16340s in.

How does the switch work on these as there isn't any wires.

I have just noticed that the 16340 are a mm or two longer than the rcr123a. Just trying to work out if this makes any difference.

kj2 · May 14, 2013

fredted40x said:
How does the switch work on these as there isn't any wires.

You may want to read this

http://flashlightwiki.com/Flashlight_Basics

AquaJoe · May 14, 2013

The D25C is very picky with li-ion batteries. If the battery is too long it will only work L-M-H and not turbo. The way the turbo works is the head has to be screwed all the way down to make contact with the turbo negative terminal. If the battery is too long, it will not make contact with the turbo terminal. The only batteries I have that work are the black AW 16340.

If you look at the head of light, the negative terminal ( the copper outside circle of the PCB) is cut into sections. The 2 small sections with 4 holes in them are the turbo negative terminals. The brass threads are the L-M-H terminals.

I would suggest getting some AW batteries or batteries that are close to A123 in length.

rdrfronty · May 14, 2013

AquaJoe said:
The D25C is very picky with li-ion batteries. If the battery is too long it will only work L-M-H and not turbo. The way the turbo works is the head has to be screwed all the way down to make contact with the turbo negative terminal. If the battery is too long, it will not make contact with the turbo terminal. The only batteries I have that work are the black AW 16340.

If you look at the head of light, the negative terminal ( the copper outside circle of the PCB) is cut into sections. The 2 small sections with 4 holes in them are the turbo negative terminals. The brass threads are the L-M-H terminals.

I would suggest getting some AW batteries or batteries that are close to A123 in length.

I've had pretty much the same results too. My protected Keepppowers 16340's work very sporadically in my light. But AW IMR's work perfect. The Keeppowers are just too long.

fredted40x · May 14, 2013

Thanks for the explanation.

Looks like the original thoughts were correct. For some reason both chargers said the batteries were full, tried once in the nitecore and twice in the other charger.

Last night however I put the 16340s into the nitecore charger again and it said they were flat. Charged them up and they are now working.

Can't charge the 3v batteries up in the nitecore so will have to try again in the other charger.

Strange

Thanks though

GordoJones88 · May 15, 2013

Unscrewing the switch end is a mistake. It messes up the contact points. Although it may not be your exact problem, several users have reported their D25 light fixed by doing the following: Position the pocket clip exactly between the Eagtac logo and the D25 logo.

Second D25C. Still no 3.7v and turbo after 15 secs.

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