more_vampires
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2014
- Messages
- 3,475
Hi everyone.
Bit stumped.
Light is AAAx1 Nighthawk Bantam twisty 2-mode. Last night, I pulled it out and it was dead. Put a different battery in there, still dead. Put the battery in another light, it worked.
Cleaned the contacts, the threads. Rubbed the battery positive connection on the driver. Still dead. Put a pencil eraser down the body and twisted it against the triple tail contacts. Still dead.
Bypassing the body, holding the battery to the driver and making contact from neg to the head threads, it lit. Okay, "twisty switch bypass" works. It comes on low, so worst case I hack it to a D battery and call it a day.
Here's where it gets weird. With the battery in the body, placing multimeter across positive and the threads reads continuity and voltage! HUH?
Am I losing it? Do I need to hand in my flashaholic card?
As a last resort, I was considering adding solder to the positive contact pad on the driver. Don't want to fry it. It actually works when you bypass the twisty/the body. Using longer length battery really jams it up against those contacts, much harder than an Eneloop. It's GOT to be making contact.
Any ideas? Driver is QTC (I think, head tight and head not-so-tight are the modes) and adding the solder will probably mess that up if my thinking is correct.
Nighthawk had a 10 year warranty, but they are out of business. (I just found out this morning.)
I was thinking jump soldering the outer contact ring of the driver with the pill, maybe there's increased resistance and I don't think the driver is soldered to the pill. Just a press fit (that doesn't look that tight.)
Bit stumped.
Light is AAAx1 Nighthawk Bantam twisty 2-mode. Last night, I pulled it out and it was dead. Put a different battery in there, still dead. Put the battery in another light, it worked.
Cleaned the contacts, the threads. Rubbed the battery positive connection on the driver. Still dead. Put a pencil eraser down the body and twisted it against the triple tail contacts. Still dead.
Bypassing the body, holding the battery to the driver and making contact from neg to the head threads, it lit. Okay, "twisty switch bypass" works. It comes on low, so worst case I hack it to a D battery and call it a day.
Here's where it gets weird. With the battery in the body, placing multimeter across positive and the threads reads continuity and voltage! HUH?
Am I losing it? Do I need to hand in my flashaholic card?
As a last resort, I was considering adding solder to the positive contact pad on the driver. Don't want to fry it. It actually works when you bypass the twisty/the body. Using longer length battery really jams it up against those contacts, much harder than an Eneloop. It's GOT to be making contact.
Any ideas? Driver is QTC (I think, head tight and head not-so-tight are the modes) and adding the solder will probably mess that up if my thinking is correct.
Nighthawk had a 10 year warranty, but they are out of business. (I just found out this morning.)
I was thinking jump soldering the outer contact ring of the driver with the pill, maybe there's increased resistance and I don't think the driver is soldered to the pill. Just a press fit (that doesn't look that tight.)
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