Could anyone talk to me about copper as a flashlight material?

SO,
I got my maratac copper cr123 and like it a lot. It was mode skipping at first and I was having some trouble with sloppy threads, but some plumber's tape has made it great.
I also just ordered a copper Olight S1. I've been trying to research the properties of copper lights but haven't turned up much. I know copper is a soft material, so my concern is mostly around threads and lube. Do I have to worry about the threads warping, getting stuck, or a light becoming too tough to open? Would I be better served just going with the norma aluminum S1 instead?
Outside of these concerns, are there any other downsides or problems associated with copper lights that I should be aware of? The copper Olight was a pre order and I think I still have time to cancel it and just order a normal aluminum model if there is any reason to think that copper has any downsides as a flashlight material.

Any thoughts are much, much appreciated!

Personally, I love copper lights. More times than not, their threads are smoother. Copper on copper should not give you any thread issues. You may be thinking of copper pipes? Where different quality of coppers are used, and soldiered with different materials. Pls, explain your idea of "sloppy threads". You kinda scare me a little when I read plumbers tape. My Cu Maratac threads have always been perfect. You could have gotten a defective unit? I suggest cleaning them with windex, then using dielectric grease as a lube. You will likely never have a problem with threads.

The only issues, for some people, with a Cu light is patina. The Maratac is a high quality copper so it tends to patina quickly. Copper is soft if you drop it, it will dent. I call that character. Others complain about the smell it has. That is all I can think of. On a positive note, bacteria don't like copper. So they are probably safer to use in your mouth than aluminum lights. lol

Hey thanks for the post! That's definitely confidence inspiring. I read something online about "galling" and all of a sudden I started thinking "oh god, my threads are going to get all mushy and deformed and mashed together". Probably an unfounded concern, but that's me just being my neurotic self.

By by sloppy threads I just mean that, twisting the light to turn it off, it would still turn on when I applied any downward pressure to the head. In order to ensure that it couldn't be turned on by pressure I would have to unscrew it until it was basically unscrewed all the way (ie: head removed). It's been fine so far with the tape.

I'm sure that, since the S1 is a side switch light, the threading won't be an issue since I'll only be unscrewing it to switch out the battery. I'll just need to be sure im using appropriate lube.

I am a pro-copper flashaholic. I love the look and smell of copper, very earthy. I use plumbers grease on all of my lights...it is meant for moving parts, deals with water well, and is cheap

Copper is heavier than aluminum, but I like the extra weight. I see no real concerns around a copper light.

Copper being soft is prone to threads being worn down if used without lube. The other problem is that if you over tighten them you will deform the threads.

Clean/remove whatever lube you presently have on the threads and o-rings. Then re-apply a lubricant sparingly to the o-rings and lightly to the threads. Reinstall the head or tail cap with no batteries inside to get the feel for how the threads are supposed to feel. Remove the tail cap, install the batteries and slowly re-install the tail cap.

I work with a lot of high conductivity copper which is great for spot welder parts and limited production prototype items, but sucks for long term thread durability.

Clean and re-lube and you'll find things get much smoother.

OBTW, copper is supposed to be good for combating arthritis.

The only thing that bugs me about copper is it tarnishes so fast. Are these lights clear coated or anything?

Copper is effortlessly polished, but the petina is quite nice. A copper flashlight holds its value or appreciates, they're not getting any cheaper. Copper has oligodynamic properties, so no worry of it transferring microbes that cause infections. I can't believe no one yet mentioned copper has wonderous thermal properties. Maybe its twice as good as aluminum, the only material that throws heat away better than copper is diamond.

Just the perfect thread to read for someone trying to convince oneself to buy a new copper light!

Woohoo!

night.hoodie said:

I can't believe no one yet mentioned copper has wonderous thermal properties. Maybe its twice as good as aluminum,

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Not quite 2x, but close. Anyway that's only true for pure copper. For copper alloys like brass it's much less than aluminium. And bronze is far worse than that.

Afaik for most aluminium alloys it isn't too different from pure aluminium, since a lot of aluminium alloys don't have much other metals mixed in. For copper alloys like brass or bronze, those other metals are a much greater portion (and thus will have more effect on the material's properties).

the only material that throws heat away better than copper is diamond.

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You forgot (pure) silver. And these days we have graphene and carbon nanotubes, too. So we should have some graphene-enhanced flashlights any day now.
See a good list here.

In case this thread was only meant about pure copper as material, I'll shut up now...

RetroTechie said:

You forgot (pure) silver. And these days we have graphene and carbon nanotubes, too. So we should have some graphene-enhanced flashlights any day now.
See a good list here.

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No, yeah, you're right, forgot silver! Which is weird because I think about it often. It still surprises me silver is neither requested nor used by CPF member modders for heat sinking, even if does cost 20x copper. If willing to pay $80-$100 for a custom job, excluding the cost of the light itself, what's an extra $20 or $50 of silver for bonding for (arguably marginally) better heat handling? It will make the light noticibly brighter! Considering the basement bargain prices of Al and Cu, a silver pill is expensive, but should not cost more than a silver ring (as jewelry, maybe $20).

RetroTechie said:

In case this thread was only meant about pure copper as material, I'll shut up now...

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Too late! See what you did? Made me go off on a tangent. I sound like a lunatic. Well, no harm done, I guess.

Now you have me thinking...silver is around $15/oz. Why don't we see solid silver lights? Are there any issues with silver and copper touching (thinking like what happens when steel and copper touch)?

Silver flashlights have indeed been made ....

I have seen sterling flashlights on Etsy, here's a vintage Tiffany and Co.:

The modern, recently crafted ones I've seen haven't thrilled me. Also, Etsy makes no sense to me. But I think a silver host, for a small, crazy bright light, would be pretty sweet.

doesn't matter

NoNotAgain said:

On one of Vinh's modified lights, I remember him building a new heat sink out of copper and that it weighed over an ounce. Somehow I don't think most people want to add an additional $40 or so to the cost of a light for a marginal increase in thermal properties.

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Most people? I must agree with that, whole heartedly. I also know for a fact most people are not CPF members. Also, that cost from Vinh was likely not for the price of the copper in the copper sink, but for his skilled hands and time. Silver is more massive than copper, but, as noted above, $15/oz (I thought it was closer to $20/oz, but I don't watch commodities). The difference between Al and Cu is not marginal. What's marginal is the benefit of Ag over Cu. A copper bonded LED is noticibly brighter than stock Al bonding, but I'm not sure how much difference one would notice with Ag compared to Cu.

NoNotAgain said:

I have a set of Sterling .925 Mont Blanc pen and pencils. I'd imagine that the light you have pictured would be in the $2500-3000 range today if produced.

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I wouldn't doubt that, if its Tiffany&Co., and even if produced by one of our resident flashlight artisans, could be that much. But the Ag in that light is only worth whatever its worth, and its small, could be $60 or less of silver if under 3oz. The same light produced by any high volume manufacturer should not be nearly as much as that. But it is worth noting a small lump of silver is affordable, but that same small lump made into something often skyrockets, depending on aesthetics or craft or rarity of the item. I'd never pay that much, but I bet some might shell out $500-$700 on a smaller light in silver host, if intelligently and beautifully designed, even if it only contained $60-$100 worth of silver.

If you have silver pens, and know about that stuff, I'd completely defer to your experience on that... above is just the way I think and want it to be, but reality is very different. People with a lot of money make things more expensive, because sellers know they will pay, leaving poor slobs like me to whine about life not being fair.

night.hoodie said:

I have seen sterling flashlights on Etsy, here's a vintage Tiffany and Co.:

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Do you have a link for that? Just curious about it.


Edit:
Ooooo.... CPF's Photon Fanatic has a Mokume-gane flashlight!
Edit2:
I thought that was silver and copper, but its nickel silver (Cu/Zn alloy) and copper... not silver as in some traditional mokume-gane. Honestly, not sure if mokume-gane is a material, per se (like Ag/Cu or Au/Cu), or the distinctive pattern produced.

Silver by Tofty:

Tofty's 3D Printed Silver Torches (pic heavy)

@
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...Tofty-s-3D-Printed-Silver-Torches-(pic-heavy)

Thanks for sharing the link to Tofty's work. Amazing!

chillinn said:

Do you have a link for that? Just curious about it.

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etsy
eBay

Manufactured by Tiffany & co. from about 1968-1972, these mini torches were keychains or fobs and were to be considered as 'penlights' for purse or pocket - in much the same way as an army knife. Not a huge seller, therefore fewer made = fewer on the market. Takes a AAA battery and is a passive circuit (you must actively push the top button to complete the circuit and create the light).

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different silver Tiffany host

Of course they were screwbulb incan, likely superdim on AAA, but I bet with a 10440 and voltage matched bulb would be adequate (but not competitive with LED) for a modern pen light, and envy-inducing w/ 2x 10220s and a bulb that can take 9V. Not for the cave, mine or toolbox, but for the wrist or neck of your heart's desire.

campingnut said:

Now you have me thinking...silver is around $15/oz. Why don't we see solid silver lights? Are there any issues with silver and copper touching (thinking like what happens when steel and copper touch)?

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I built a Silver light for a guy about 3 years ago... it was more for show than use but pulled the heat out nicely. I was glad when that one was finished. It had over 700 holes 760 I think... drilled in it and each hole received a piece of 10K Gold wire in it. Each little piece of wire had to be peened, then shaved off flat with the surface so it was just a Gold dot.... :candle: took forever!! F O R E V E R ! Ha! TL