Need help finding a flicker-free LED flashlight that runs on AA

Hi!

I have been using a Maglite Mini LED for a few years now, but it has crazy PWM flicker.
Not only am I sensitive to flicker and get migraines, but I also want to use my flashlight to illuminate my subjects when doing macro photography. With the Maglite Mini every single frame is a different exposure. At 11 frames per second some are way overexposed, and some are almost completely black.

I like the size and shape of the Maglite Mini. It fits perfectly in a pen holder in my backpack. I also like that it runs on two AA batteries.

Can you guys help me find a flicker free (absolutely no PWM) flashlight running on AA (preferably two of them)? Bonus points for similar size and shape as my Maglite Mini. I absolutely despise the tactical look, so extra bonus points for a civilian looking model.

You help would be much appreciated

I suggest the EagTac D25A Clicky MKII for single AA and D25A2 for two AA batteries, both have constant current regulation (non-PWM) for all output levels with a few LED choices to choose from.

yoyobrotha said:

I suggest the EagTac D25A Clicky MKII for single AA and D25A2 for two AA batteries, both have constant current regulation (non-PWM) for all output levels with a few LED choices to choose from.

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good suggestion, based on what the OP thinks he wants
fwiw, I dont find a flashlight with a typical reflector hotspot very useful for photos

Swedish_Dude said:

want to use my flashlight to illuminate my subjects when doing macro photography

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Welcome to CPF..

I cant offer a suggestion that meets all your design criteria

I prefer either a pebble TIR, example Lumintop Tool aaa, or an Aspheric lens, example Klarus Mi1C aluminium model (not the Ti, not the CU, and not the HiCRI, only the Aluminium model has the Aspheric lens)

neither of those lights is High CRI in stock form, and for my needs, High CRI is absolutely required.. so.. good luck finding a light off the shelf that suits your macro photography needs

yoyobrotha said:

I suggest the EagTac D25A Clicky MKII for single AA and D25A2 for two AA batteries, both have constant current regulation (non-PWM) for all output levels with a few LED choices to choose from.

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Thanks! I like that one. The D25A2 looks too tactical for my taste, but the D25A seems to be a great option! A bit pricey, but I guess that's the cost of good quality. I like that it's available with neutral white LED options.

jon_slider said:

good suggestion, based on what the OP thinks he wants
fwiw, I dont find a flashlight with a typical reflector hotspot very useful for photos



Welcome to CPF..

I cant offer a suggestion that meets all your design criteria

I prefer either a pebble TIR, example Lumintop Tool aaa, or an Aspheric lens, example Klarus Mi1C aluminium model (not the Ti, not the CU, and not the HiCRI, only the Aluminium model has the Aspheric lens)

neither of those lights is High CRI in stock form, and for my needs, High CRI is absolutely required.. so.. good luck finding a light off the shelf that suits your macro photography needs

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I agree that a flashlight isn't the best for photos, however, light can be diffused and bounced to give it a much nicer quality. They are also really useful for lighting shiny objects in the background to give a nice shimmer to the out of focus elements. High CRI is preferred, but for the type of impromptu macros I would use a flashlight for over a real strobe a CRI of 92 is probably good enough. My main concern is PWM free to prevent migraines.


Thanks guys!

My choice at work is not AA, it's a Utorch S1 Mini.

Very uniform flood for pictures at work with our Ricoh digital camera.

The AA that I previously used was a Coast HX5 in Flood mode.

The Jaxman M2 runs on 2xAA. It uses a good semi-protected button on the tail instead of the maglite's twisty head. It has two modes with simple operation. There is no observable flicker on either mode. Compared to my Spectrum Series warm white 2xAA mini maglite, the Jaxman's low is on par with the maglite's high and lasts longer. (I'll post lumens and run times below.) The Jaxman M2 is available in a few different emitter colors but I really like the 4300K version. It's been my go-to flashlight for night activities for over a year now.

Standing on their heads, side by side, the M2 is just a hair shorter and just a tad fatter than the minimag. The big difference is the Jaxman's larger head. This helps the Jaxman throw its beam quite well but who knows if it will fit your pen holder.

Here are the values I have gathered from various sources.

--- Maglite 2xAA Minimag Spectrum Warm White ---

High: 57 Lumens, 9 hours
Low: unknown, 33 hours

--- Jaxman M2 4300K ---

High: 400 Lumens, 90 minutes
Low: 60 Lumens, 17 hours

Lumintop Tool AA 2.0. I just gave mine the fan test, and no strobing on any of the modes. Like any reflector light, it has a hot spot, but it also comes with a slip on diffuser for a nice even flood of light. And if you want more light, it will also run on a 14440 rechargeable.

Cosmodragoon said:

The Jaxman M2 runs on 2xAA. It uses a good semi-protected button on the tail instead of the maglite's twisty head. It has two modes with simple operation. There is no observable flicker on either mode. Compared to my Spectrum Series warm white 2xAA mini maglite, the Jaxman's low is on par with the maglite's high and lasts longer. (I'll post lumens and run times below.) The Jaxman M2 is available in a few different emitter colors but I really like the 4300K version. It's been my go-to flashlight for night activities for over a year now.

Standing on their heads, side by side, the M2 is just a hair shorter and just a tad fatter than the minimag. The big difference is the Jaxman's larger head. This helps the Jaxman throw its beam quite well but who knows if it will fit your pen holder.

Here are the values I have gathered from various sources.

--- Maglite 2xAA Minimag Spectrum Warm White ---

High: 57 Lumens, 9 hours
Low: unknown, 33 hours

--- Jaxman M2 4300K ---

High: 400 Lumens, 90 minutes
Low: 60 Lumens, 17 hours

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I picked up a Jaxman M2 a little while back and find it to be an exceptional budget'ish light! I would say that while it is close in size to a 2AA Minimag it is almost much bigger (if that makes any sense). Jaxman seems to make a good product, though. The M2 is one light which is typically in my camping bag without a second thought. My only gripe (other than not being a high CRI) is that the low and high mode are fairly closely spaced. I would like to see low roughly half a bright as it is.

Buck91 said:

I picked up a Jaxman M2 a little while back and find it to be an exceptional budget'ish light! I would say that while it is close in size to a 2AA Minimag it is almost much bigger (if that makes any sense). Jaxman seems to make a good product, though. The M2 is one light which is typically in my camping bag without a second thought. My only gripe (other than not being a high CRI) is that the low and high mode are fairly closely spaced. I would like to see low roughly half a bright as it is.

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I own a couple lights from Jaxman now and I've been happy with the quality. This is the one that really stands out. The tint is decent and it might be the best 2xAA thrower on the market.

I know what you mean about the low mode. It seems more like a medium would be relative to the high. I think that's okay given the philosophy of use for the M2. For instance, it isn't an EDC light. It's something you are going to put in your backpack, camping bag, etc. or that you'll specifically grab to go out at night. (How many of us will have an EDC or key chain light with lower modes when we do?) The 60 lumen "low" is nicely usable for lots of tasks. Especially with that head, it compares favorably with some single-mode lights like my Lightstar 80. So I feel like that's a good long-lasting "normal" and I consider the 400 lumen high an as-needed turbo for looking across a field, etc.

Curiously, this brings me full circle a little. When I first started exploring modern flashlights, I didn't love cycling through modes with multiple button taps or head twists. Then I got used to it. Now, I'm back to appreciating simplicity. I stopped EDCing a light with "moonlight". I love that the M2 only has two modes and defaults to the one I use most. What I'd really like to see is a modern high-CRI flashlight with separate hardware controls for the mode selection.

Swedish_Dude said:

sensitive to flicker and get migraines

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some people are sensitive to the flicker in Constant Current also, especially when used as a sole illuminant for long periods, so maybe you wont get migraines from an Eagletac or a Zebralight

yoyobrotha said:

I suggest the EagTac D25A

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there is also a new AA Titanium model that looks nice, called the D3a

I agree they use constant current, but that does not guarantee flicker free, even though it is not techincally PWM

here is an ET D25c that is pulsing, on video... I dont know if you would see it with your naked eye, or in a still photo
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?420911-Eagletac-D25C-219B-question

here is another video of an ET, it is labeled as having PWM, because that term is used to describe flicker, even though some flicker is also caused by CC

LightObsession said:

My choice at work is not AA, it's a Utorch S1 Mini.

Very uniform flood for pictures

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I agree, I have the same light and I love the smooth, no hotspot aspheric lens beam for direct lighting at close range

Klarus makes a similar light, the Mi1c aluminium model with a similar lens,
(not the copper and Ti and High CRI versions that use reflectors)
I would recommend the Klarus over the Utorch, because the Klarus will memorize moonlight, the Utorch wont.. if that matters to the OP

Timothybil said:

Lumintop Tool AA 2.0. I just gave mine the fan test, and no strobing on any of the modes

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good info, I found a review that confirms no pwm in that version

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Left 47s Q123 3 mode twisty, right Sofirn C01 single mode twisty, both are Constant Current

bottom two images from a photo of my waving the light to test for "pwm"
the light on the left is not using PWM, but the constant current produces photographable banding in the top image, and dots when I wave it, which the camera sees as blurred together, because the circuit is not turning completely off between brightness fluctuations of the constant current.

I did not notice the flicker of the Q123 in actual use, I only became aware of it when I took the top photo, and when I waved the light. Whether or not this circuit would cause a sensitive person a migraine, or other biological effects, I do not know, but it does interfere with using it as a light source for a photo.