Modded MMM with 5 stages switch

Completed my mod last month but only have time to post it here now. I used a double pole, six throw rotary switch to built a 5 stages switch for my modded MMM. Resistor values are selected to obtain the following drive current(approximate):

1) 5mA
2) 30mA
3) 150mA
4) 450mA
5) 1100mA



The light use a TWOJ "direct driven" with an AA Li-ion battery. It is mounted on a solid aluminium heat sink that is customed machined so that it has a good fit with the flashlight body allowing heat transfer not just from the "lip" but also the side.




I tried it out during my reserve military training and note that the 5mA low mode is very nice to preserve night vision and for tactical movement. In fact, it could do better with an even lower current. The maximum current is throttled down to about 1100mA so as not to overload the AA Li-ion battery.






Below is a pic of the completed light next to MM and MMM for size comparison.



Hope you enjoyed the pics. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Cool... I feel a little behind the times for having to ask but what is the light in between the 2 Mags?

-Mike

Wow! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif Your switch is fascinating.

Very interesting and unique modifications, I'd like to hear more about it.

Britt

PS: Mike, the one in between is his light.

Yes, the light in between is the modded minimini m@g. I've built a custom head which is thinner and shorter than the original minim@g head. The whole thing is then hard anodised. It uses a cut down SO17XA reflector. I should have rebuilt and integrate the body and head into one piece to further reduce the size. Maybe I'll built a smaller one with two piece body using CR2 Li-ion cell sometimes later. Still have lots of other projects waiting to be done. Sigh.... so many ideas........so little time.

Britt : What do you want to know about?

Heh heh, if you plan to make anymore? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I think you answered it right there with the head being custom built by you and the reflector. It's good to see how you are "thinking outside of the box". Kudos!

very cool indeed.. one suggestion: better efficiency and better brightness control by putting an LDO driver in there ($3 in parts).. and using the 6-way switch to control the output vs using limiting resistors.

-awr

there is no reason someone cannot make the above switch with threads.

just think a drop-in replacement all of the LED lights that uses a kroll.

you could have 5 stages for an ARC LS or Mclux TK etc..

You mentioned reserve military training; did you get "lucky" and had to use this under the rain and/or other harsh field conditions?

WOW! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/paypal.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/paypal.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/paypal.gif

I'm serious - if you make'em they will buy, and Buy, and BUY - and so will I!!! (hey, that rhymes...)

*Very* nice /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
If this could work on primaries ... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
bernie

Reefphilic!

Oh, boy, who let the dogs out? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

A brilliant idea with great execution! If you could mass produce this switch(or at least make some for the HA3 GB buyers with matching colors /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif), this thing will move off the shelves, so fast that they are all gone before you can day 'doh!' /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

That thing is beautiful!

that's similar to what i had in mind with a potentiometer
the switch design looks very nice, and i'm sure it can even be sealed with an o-ring easily =)

BCO311 : Actually, I've thought of doing a few extras to offer it here. Knowing that the McE2S LOTC two stage switch is so nicely built and yet being offered at a very reasonable price. The rotary switch I used cost about US$20 alone. After adding the cost of machining, anodising etc... it will be expensive. I can't seen to be able to find any cheaper alternative. Others are either too big, dosen't have the right "feel", non water resistance etc...... If only I can find a smaller rotary switch, I would built a 1XAAA sized ligth. The only smaller rotary switch that I've find are all smt parts and are not suitable. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif

Andrewynn : Not being EE trained, I decided to take the easy way out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Actually, I've measured the power loss at the resistors. At high power levels, the % loss is "relatively minor". At the lowest power setting, the power loss can reach about 30%. Since the LED is driven at only approximately 0.01-0.02W. Even with the 0.003-0.006W power loss, it can still runs for days on a single charge. I will look into using LDO soon, perhap someone can help me out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

greenLED : I was lucky that it wasn't raining during the field training. The only harsh conditions that I've encountered was those mosquitoes that left me itching for the WHOLE WEEK! I've to sacrifice water resistant because I couldn't find any smaller rotary switch. The threaded part is very thin so I decided to do away with the O-ring groove even though the switch itself is water resistant. If this is a CR2 version, adding an o-ring for water-proofness will be easy. Maybe next time, I'll run it over with an armoured vehicle to test it's ruggedness!

Mr Bulk : Hahaha........if I'm to produce them, you will not have to pay a single cent to get one............just give me one of your masterpiece!

Kiessling : I've stop using primaries ever since I discover Li-ion. Well, at least for flashlight applications. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Panzerwolf : I've thought of using potentiometer instead but can't find one small enough, comes with built in on/off switch, water-resistant and with suitable resistance. If I use a smt potentiometer, I'll have to carry a screwdriver to adjust the settings! The rotary switch comes with an o-ring but the threaded part is too thin to fix an o-ring. Actually, i might be able to squeeze in a thin o-ring but I didn't. The mean purpose of this project is to try out the concept. That's why the design is very plain. I didn't even bother to design a nice slot for attaching key ring.


Thanks to everyone for the compliments and suggestions.

well, that makes sense, i also haven't found a pot that fits my needs, at the moment i'm looking into adjustable driver boards for a dimming function
the o-ring i was thinking of wouldn't have to be small, just a large one around the nut that holds the switch, it should seal the whole gap between the cap and the knob

Hi, i am very interested for the 5 stages switch, you send in italy?
Thanks.

I'm in for one switch. what's the part number and mfg of the switch?

the primary benefit of the LDO is constant output vs the 'resistored drive' solution.. however.. with 5 levels.. you can be your own LDO.. or MLDO (manual)... by just turning up the brightness as the batteries die.. the other thing is.. what about low voltage.. actually that's probably a moot point unless you are using H bin emitters... the J bin will only pull a LiON down to about 2.5V even if you leave it on for a day.

how would you build and compute the parameters for such an LDO?
how efficient are they?
could they be used in series with a stepup circuit? (since in small lights it's easier to install a multilevel-switch in the tailcap)
this sounds interesting ...

Great idea. If you are not accepting orders for these,
could you tell us the part number of the switch and its availability?