SureFire E-Series Addicts Unite!

[phxccw]

Newbie Q, but is the Executive body the same as the Surefire Scout?

 

[gswitter]

The body of the M600* Scout Lights are threaded like any other E-series light, but the Scout Light body incorporates an adapter for a weapon mount. See here vs here.

 

[phxccw]

But nearly the same weight, width and length?

The body of the M600* Scout Lights are threaded like any other E-series light, but the Scout Light body incorporates an adapter for a weapon mount. See here vs here.

 

[SolarMan]

Thanks for the thumbs up!

Speaking of which, DaFabricata deserves about 100 :thumbsup:!!!

Now, how about some low numbers?

...this is KX1 #A00019



Is she special? Hell Yes!

Not because she's #19, but because I have never owned or seen another LED light with such a gorgeous (to my eyes!) tint. Basically the only LED light I use.

 

[gswitter]

But nearly the same weight, width and length?

I've never measured them and don't own a Scout Light body, so I can only speculate...

The length should be the same. Interior diameter should be the same, within a mm or so - E-series ID's have varied over the years. The exterior diameters (excluding the adapter portion of the Scout Light body) are probably similar. I imagine the Scout Light body is a few ounces heavier.

See DaFABRICATA's picture in post #24 for a better visual comparison.

 

[mdocod]

Got my First E series today

I didn't realize until I held it how great these feel in hand. I'm running the IMR-E2

-Eric

 

[Robocop]

We really do not have very many choices when it comes to a single cell Incandescent....or at least one that performs well enough to be usefull. The little E1E in its stock form does well enough for around the house and is still my favorite E series light.

I have long been a huge fan of the E1E paired with the various Lumens Factory lamps and with the right lamp it is a very good performer on a single cell. Throw in the EO lamp and a rechargeable 123 cell and it is indeed a powerhouse of a small light.

I believe the E1E is one of those classics that will always hold some type of appeal to me regardless of what else I carry.

 

[Illum]

Got my First E series today

I didn't realize until I held it how great these feel in hand. I'm running the IMR-E2

-Eric

Congrats on your first E series!
I think you are set by now, eh? one M series, one P series, now an E...how about a C?

you tossed that M6? looks new to me

 

[mdocod]

Congrats on your first E series!
I think you are set by now, eh? one M series, one P series, now an E...how about a C?

you tossed that M6? looks new to me

Howdy

No C2 yet, some day! I hear this is another must-have (I guess they all are really) for the grip design. I'll have to decide if I keep the E2E or sell it and pick up a C2 or

Yea, that's the M6 that took a drunken 30ft vertical toss, but in the drunken testing the regular turbo-head was on it, I've been tinkering with the cucumber option lego since my Z46 came in. Looks weird like this... hehe.

-Eric

 

[bigchelis]

If I get an L1 will a 17500 cell fit?


I saw a couple of you folks say that with some boring a 17500 will fit. So, I figure lengh wise it does, but the diameter needs to be opened up a bit..

 

[gswitter]

If I get an L1 will a 17500 cell fit?


I saw a couple of you folks say that with some boring a 17500 will fit. So, I figure lengh wise it does, but the diameter needs to be opened up a bit..

Out of the box, the battery compartment isn't long enough for a 17500. The boring that folks have described is to remove the driver and bore it out to a straight tube. On the older L1 bodies you could then use two cells or a 17670. The newer bodies are shorter, and if others have done it, then I guess a 17500 would fit.

 

[Blindasabat]

Depends. I'm one them folks so here's what I know.

* The new Cree L1 body is too short even if you take out the driver. It is only about 1mm too short, so if you modify the head to lower the contact point it will fit. Another CPF member had Milky do this to his, but used a KX head to put a driver in it. You could make a body tube extension too (I have one drawn up) to go between the head & body, but you have to add a few millimeters and then put a spacer in too. (PM incoming - better get that)

* The old longer bodies will fit a 17500 if you bore it out and remove the driver. Then you need to make a spacer about 10-12mm long. The L1 body on the right in the last picture of post # 20 was modded like this by Milkyspit.

<Edit> BTW, you need to bore out the top few mm of the L1 body to be able to fit any other E-series heads on it. They do this to keep you from putting a head with its own internal driver circuit on the L1 body with a deiver in the body.

If I get an L1 will a 17500 cell fit?

I saw a couple of you folks say that with some boring a 17500 will fit. So, I figure lengh wise it does, but the diameter needs to be opened up a bit..

 

[Blindasabat]

2xCR123 or a 17670 will not fit in the old body. I tried. it is about 15mm too short. I had to put a 17500 in it.

Out of the box, the battery compartment isn't long enough for a 17500. The boring that folks have described is to remove the driver and bore it out to a straight tube. On the older L1 bodies you could then use two cells or a 17670. The newer bodies are shorter, and if others have done it, then I guess a 17500 would fit.

 

[Owen]

If I get an L1 will a 17500 cell fit?


I saw a couple of you folks say that with some boring a 17500 will fit. So, I figure lengh wise it does, but the diameter needs to be opened up a bit..

A simpler(and cheaper!) alternative would be to buy an Aleph 1x17500 body, Aleph tailcap, and a McE2S switch. You could also choose your resistor value ahead of time, and could have 1 and 2 cell bodies, too.
You'd lose the clip,. I know everyone is different, but that was one of the things that kept me from being comfortable with the L1.

 

[Monocrom]

Got my First E series today

I'm running the IMR-E2

Any issues with the forward-clickie being able to handle the high-output combo?

 

[gswitter]

2xCR123 or a 17670 will not fit in the old body. I tried. it is about 15mm too short. I had to put a 17500 in it.

Hmm...

A number of people have claimed to do it. Maybe they had to modifiy something else as well?

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

If I get an L1 will a 17500 cell fit?


I saw a couple of you folks say that with some boring a 17500 will fit. So, I figure lengh wise it does, but the diameter needs to be opened up a bit..

A 17500 is a CR123x1.5 in length.

 

[Illum]

I've been tinkering with the cucumber option lego since my Z46 came in. Looks weird like this... hehe.

-Eric

yeah, I've embraced the KL6 option on my M6 as well, now that I think about it...its not that awful once you get used to it:naughty:
FS: Surefire 6P, 9P, C2, & C3's, bored for your favorite 18mm cells

 

[Blindasabat]

I'd like to see those!

Hmm...

A number of people have claimed to do it. Maybe they had to modifiy something else as well?

Might be possible if you modify the head AND body? But I don't recall ever seeing one.

 

[mudman cj]

Well then here you go. This particular one can use a 17500. To get a 17670 in the old L1 you have to move the internals forward - not for just anybody. The only modder I have heard of that has done that is Milkyspit. I hope I am remembering that right. :thinking: