SureFire E-Series Addicts Unite!

[paintballdad]

HA is hard anodized olive drab and HABK is hard anodized black.

 

[RobertM]

SureFire E-Series lights are great! I've been carrying my E1e with FM's Strion kit running on 1x IMR16340 for the past little while...killer little combo!

My fiancée is a fan of SF lego lights as well and daily carries this little E-series lego with a LF HO-E1A lamp:







We also got her an E2D bezel which is currently on the light (she tends to alternate back-and-forth). She likes the angry look of her little light with the E2D bezel, LOL.

-Robert

 

[mudman cj]

phxccw - First, a heart felt welcome to CPF. :welcome:
Second, you should review the forum rules, specifically #9) Double and cross posting

 

[kelmo]

I just spent a long weekend in the woods. My E2D was the perfect camp light. Just bright enough to totally satisfy. I had a 9P w/M60W and a diffuser too. Everybody wanted to borrow my "Xenon, Warrior Princess." The Malkoff was just too bright.

 

[Monocrom]

... the L4 is perfect for doing vessel checks and other tasks due to its size.

The only thing I need to figure out is do I get a KX2C head to upgrade the old 100 lumen head or do I buy a P60 host? I can't really see buying another G2ZL when I don't carry a duty belt.

E-series = perfect.

The KX2C head is the exact opposite of the KL4 head on your L4. The KX2C is designed more for throw, rather than flood. It has very little sidespill, and gives off an intense hotspot.

Gene is coming out with an E-series replacement head that would allow his M60 drop-ins to work with an E-series body. You could get the new head, and then his M60F drop-in to put inside of it. Screw the complete head onto your L4, and you've got your upgrade.

Here's a link:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/231465

 

[Monocrom]

I'm looking at picking up a E1E Executive Elite for $55...good deal? And if so, what's the first thing I need to do to pump lumens?

You've got a handful of options. Easiest one is to get an Optics HQ / TLS Q5 LED replacement head. Huge increase in lumen output, but the carry-clip becomes useless since the TLS head is a bit longer than the standard E1E head. With the TLS head in place, the clip becomes simply an anti-roll feature. If clip carry isn't important to you, the TLS head is a great option.

If you want to keep the stock E1E head in place, you can send your light off to Scott (MilkySpit) and have him turn it into a Milky Red-Eye. One Hell of a sweet upgrade! If you'd prefer, he can alter the beam profile so that your E1E gives a ton of flood with no hotspot. (A single-cell Milky RoomSweeper).

If you'd prefer not to alter your E1E into an LED light, you can get a Lumens Factory HO-E1R 3.6 volt 50 Lumen high-output lamp. Replace the stock lamp in the E1E with this one, and be sure to use only a rechargeable CR123 cell (RCR123) with the lamp. This is the least expensive route, but also yields the smallest jump in output. Besides the lamp assembly, and one RCR123 cell, you'll need a charger for the cell. Check out Lighthound.com if you go with this option.

Check out the links below for the other two options...

TLS head. (Scroll nearly all the way down to where it says, TLS CREE Q5 LED Conversion Head for E1. Then click on the image). ~
http://www.opticshq.com/page/Optics/CTGY/Surefire-Accessories

Milky Red-Eye. ~
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/211483

Milky RoomSweeper (2-cell version). ~
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/209239

 

[Centropolis]

It is reading these threads that makes me feel so behind and inadequate. I only have an E1B, 2 E1Es and an E1L.

 

[phxccw]

Thanks bud. Is there a particular RCR123 and charger that you would recommend from lighthound?

You've got a handful of options. Easiest one is to get an Optics HQ / TLS Q5 LED replacement head. Huge increase in lumen output, but the carry-clip becomes useless since the TLS head is a bit longer than the standard E1E head. With the TLS head in place, the clip becomes simply an anti-roll feature. If clip carry isn't important to you, the TLS head is a great option.

If you want to keep the stock E1E head in place, you can send your light off to Scott (MilkySpit) and have him turn it into a Milky Red-Eye. One Hell of a sweet upgrade! If you'd prefer, he can alter the beam profile so that your E1E gives a ton of flood with no hotspot. (A single-cell Milky RoomSweeper).

If you'd prefer not to alter your E1E into an LED light, you can get a Lumens Factory HO-E1R 3.6 volt 50 Lumen high-output lamp. Replace the stock lamp in the E1E with this one, and be sure to use only a rechargeable CR123 cell (RCR123) with the lamp. This is the least expensive route, but also yields the smallest jump in output. Besides the lamp assembly, and one RCR123 cell, you'll need a charger for the cell. Check out Lighthound.com if you go with this option.

Check out the links below for the other two options...

TLS head. (Scroll nearly all the way down to where it says, TLS CREE Q5 LED Conversion Head for E1. Then click on the image). ~
http://www.opticshq.com/page/Optics/CTGY/Surefire-Accessories

Milky Red-Eye. ~
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/211483

Milky RoomSweeper (2-cell version). ~
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/209239

 

[kelmo]

It is reading these threads that makes me feel so behind and inadequate. I only have an E1B, 2 E1Es and an E1L.

What's to feel inadequate about?! Thats a mighty fine stable of Elites you got.

BTW - I just spent a week in Brampton visiting with my wife's side of the family.

 

[mdocod]

Big thanks to SolarMan!

He has contacted me and is going to send me a Z52! Very exciting!

Color match has never really bothered me much. I use flashlights in the dark usually

I was just going to ask if I could thank him publicly, cats out of the bag anyhow so ....

THANK YOU ERIC!!!

-Eric

(yea yea, we have the same name haha)

 

[Monocrom]

Thanks bud. Is there a particular RCR123 and charger that you would recommend from lighthound?

Best rechargeable cells are AW brand protected cells. With the 50 lumen LF lamp, be sure you don't accidentally get one of AW's IMR cells for it. (Red Label). His cells are clearly marked on lighthound's site.

I'm guessing you don't want to invest too much money for this rechargeable set-up. The Ultrafire WF-139 is a good, basic charger. You'll just need a 15mm Charging Spacer so the WF-139 can be used to charge the RCR123 cell you'll be using.

With the WF-139... You have to keep an eye on it. This is not the sort of charger where you can go to bed, and just leave the cells charging overnight. This charger doesn't stop charging once the cells are full. You have to watch for the light on the charger to turn green, and turn it off right then. When you do remove the cells from it, it's best to wait a few minutes before installing them into your light.

 

[BSBG]

Hmm...

A number of people have claimed to do it. Maybe they had to modifiy something else as well?

AS noted, McGizmo did some a few years ago. I just snagged one, will get some pics up soon. He removes the driver and bores the body. LE has to go a bit farther forward in the head as compared to a regular Aleph or E Series.

Here are a couple of random pics that do not reflect the current collection:

 

[Illum]

ahh leef...
Haven't seen a leef for awhile now

 

[phxccw]

Who makes that tailcap on the L1?

AS noted, McGizmo did some a few years ago. I just snagged one, will get some pics up soon. He removes the driver and bores the body. LE has to go a bit farther forward in the head as compared to a regular Aleph or E Series.

Here are a couple of random pics that do not reflect the current collection:

 

[gswitter]

Who makes that tailcap on the L1?

Surefire.

Looks like a stock tailcap with lanyard ring that Milkyspit modified and tagged.

 

[Blindasabat]

Who makes that tailcap on the L1?

Looks like Milky did the resistor mod to it to lower the low. I just did one with a 100ohm resistor and it is super low. I plan to do a 20 or 30 ohm next. I need to label it just like that one. I got clear label tape for just that reason.

The trick in taking them apart is that once you get the boot off, you need to use two small regular screwdrivers to pull off the pressed in plastic mushroom cap - carefully with one screwdriver on either side oppposite each other so you are pulling it straight up without pushing it to the side. It may still break, but then you just have to glue it back together when you re-assemble it.

 

[BSBG]

Surefire.

Looks like a stock tailcap with lanyard ring that Milkyspit modified and tagged.

Correct.

 

[mdocod]

Forgot to mention-

My new E2E-HA-CB came with a really neat black zipper up black nylon display/carry case with a nice heavy duty foam insert.. Not sure if that's standard issue for an E2E or what, but I didn't notice that was part of the deal at the time I ordered it.. I got the thing for $79 brand new from OP. I'm wondering if that's a mistake or what because they are selling the HA version with the nice case for the same price as a satin finish (non-HA?) E2E with no fancy case...

Thought yall might like to know

-Eric

 

[phxccw]

My latest E Series and Scout.

 

[CandlePowerForumsUser]

E Series junkie checking in here. E Series FT Fricken W lovecpf