The Official Malkoff Junkie thread - Part 2

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Grizzman

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what does that look like? wouldn't it leave a big gap?

Malkoff%2018650%20HD%20amp%20MD_zpscuibye2p.jpg


A Prometheus clip and the black 0-ring it comes with takes care of the gap on the left. The glow in the dark 0-ring that
used to come with Prometheus clips takes care of the gap on the right.
 

badbs101

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It was a big flashlight day for me today. Malkoff M31W arrived today alongside my Hound Dog Super I mentioned earlier. I dropped it into a G3 with two AA batteries to test it out. For anyone wondering, DO NOT FEAR THE WARM TINT. It's my new favorite Malkoff drop-in and will eventually be going into a Fivemega 3P when it arrives in the mail.
 

INFRNL

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I definitely like the neutral XP-G drop-ins over the Nichias. Yes, the Nichias are beautiful but you get pretty darn close in tint between the two and the XP-G is more efficient.

I do love my M61 219 LL and LLL though. I still have yet to see the batteries drop below 4v.
Are you talking about an older xp-g or the current xp-g2. I have the current xp-g2 m61n and its on the yellow side. When i shine my m361 219b next to it the 219b shows a little rosy and makes the xp-g2 more yellow. The 219b is usually a creamy (off white maybe)color on its own. If i can get my eyes to adjust i can try to see what I think of the xp-g2 but I think I still prefer the nichia but i do like the neutral of the hound dogs, super. WCv6 is definitely on the yellow side but I still love it.

As yellow as the wcv6 is for 4000k, I'm starting to wonder what the cw wcv6 is like(would it be more on the neutral side). Maybe the optics messes with it. I asked Gene yesterday if he was going to make a neutral m61hot or m91t and he said most likely not. He has already tried and the optics make it orange, then there are different oranges in the beam, so it's not working.

Sorry, got off track

Malkoff%2018650%20HD%20amp%20MD_zpscuibye2p.jpg


A Prometheus clip and the black 0-ring it comes with takes care of the gap on the left. The glow in the dark 0-ring that
used to come with Prometheus clips takes care of the gap on the right.
Have you mentioned this to me before? You probably did and it went through one eye and out the other...hahaha

I like this and it looks like it shortens them up a touch too:thumbsup:
 

Grizzman

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No, I hadn't mentioned the Triad. It does make it approximately 4.5 mm shorter.

I resisted the Triad for several years, thinking it wouldn't be comfortable in the pocket, or would provide sub-par thumb access. Neither is the case, and I've not got more than a few of them.
 

INFRNL

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I'll have to try one out at some point.

For modernflame or anyone else.
Started my test on the m361 219b on hi in the bravo using protected ga cell.

Starting voltage depending on which one of my 3 chargers i checked with, was 4.17-4.2v

I'm currently sitting at 2.25hrs still full output or damn near(don't have a meter) but still bright as hell.

Might have to cut this one short and start over. It's 12:36 here in the Rocky Mountains


Also i wanted to welcome our friend from other placesv wimmer to our family!

What did you end up getting?


Edit: final update for the night/morning
@3 hrs putting out 80-100lm approx
3hrs 8 mins, same output but light started flickering.

Tomorrow/ today I'm going to use 2 different ga protected cells and test the m361n vs m361 216b, then i might rerun the test on m61n(want to at least see when the heat drops)
 
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Grizzman

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I'm now 5 hours into a low mode run time test with an M61N in an Elzetta Bravo fed by a protected AW 3400 mAh 18650.

The initial lmeasurement in my 1/2 bath is 1.15 lux. According to my charger, the test began with the battery at 4.19 Volts.
 
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tuelleric

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There are so many variable when comparing lights and tints. I can sometimes see how you would say they look white. The neutral cree's I have is a whole nother animal when trying to compare tints. My warmest one is probably the WCv6 Neutral 4000K hicri. it looks warmer than 4000K to me

anyway, have fun comparing; it starts driving me nuts after a while. Every light makes another light look totally different.

I know exactly what you mean. It drives me crazy when the tints vary across the same manufacturer rated color temperature.

I wonder whether Cree does not offer closely matched bins to manufacturers in small quantities. As far as I understand a 3-step bin should somehow guaranty the same tint.
 

INFRNL

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Ok, last night/this morning I ended the test @3hrs 15min's. checked the voltage and it was 2.7v. Let it rest and checked today, 3v.

I most likely won't be doing many more tests, at least not for a while(going back on the road soon) however something happened today. I have 4 chargers(3 that give me actual voltage) and they all read slightly different. I decide to break out the DMM to see which is the closest to correct. I have a skyrc 3000, opus 3400(most current version and exclusive)nightcore that came with HD 18650, and xtar vtc4.
Turns out the Skyrc is the most accurate, then Opus, then nightcore. opus is .01 off from skyrc; NC is .02 off from skyrc

Well, while going to find my DMM in the toolbox in the garage; I see the temp sensor that goes with it(how did I forget about having this) I also have one of those laser temp guns(whatever they are called) These would have been very useful during my little tests(slaps forehead)

But we are kind of in luck. I decided to do a neck/neck test between the Bravo M361 219B and MD2 M361N! Will see how well I can monitor it.
Started the test about 1hr 20mins ago. starting voltage of both protected GA cells was 4.14v(matching set) Currently still full output on both and producing a little heat.

Once the lights got up to temp, I have been trying to monitor both of them. Its not quite fair since the 2 lights are of different design ( I should have used 2 MD2's) Its close enough for this test.
The MD2 with M361N has been maintaining approx 122-123 degF
Bravo M361 219B has been maintaining around 110-112 degF

Although this is apples to oranges N is rated at 375lm and 219b is rated at 275lm. Either way I can at least monitor when the lights start cooling off, etc.
Not going to get too involved today. I mainly want max output till it starts to cool, and when the output gets too low to use or cuts off
 

redvalkyrie

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Are you talking about an older xp-g or the current xp-g2. I have the current xp-g2 m61n and its on the yellow side. When i shine my m361 219b next to it the 219b shows a little rosy and makes the xp-g2 more yellow. The 219b is usually a creamy (off white maybe)color on its own. If i can get my eyes to adjust i can try to see what I think of the xp-g2 but I think I still prefer the nichia but i do like the neutral of the hound dogs, super. WCv6 is definitely on the yellow side but I still love it.

As yellow as the wcv6 is for 4000k, I'm starting to wonder what the cw wcv6 is like(would it be more on the neutral side). Maybe the optics messes with it. I asked Gene yesterday if he was going to make a neutral m61hot or m91t and he said most likely not. He has already tried and the optics make it orange, then there are different oranges in the beam, so it's not working.

Sorry, got off track


Have you mentioned this to me before? You probably did and it went through one eye and out the other...hahaha

I like this and it looks like it shortens them up a touch too:thumbsup:

I'm speaking about the latest XP-G2 that is currently used in M61N drop-ins. If you don't compare them side by side to the latest M61 219, the XP-G2 looks pretty darn neutral to me.

I'd love to have a Triad Tailcap but one--they are really expensive. Two--they never seem to be in stock.
 
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Howecollc

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Yes. The Hound Dog needs an anti-roll head. Add that to the list of desired features.

To sum up:

1. better knurling on MD4 body
2. Anti-roll bezels
3. a bit more thread tension between head/body. Maybe.
I totally agree with item 3I bought my malkoff flashlights a short time. Until then I played with solarforce + dropins (malkoff / sportac) My initial perception with the super hound dog was that the bezel would fall on the floor at any moment.I'm getting familiar ... but I was afraid to break a flashlight as interesting as this one
I got into the habit of alway tightening the head when I shut of the light from low mode. No wobble then and I always know I would turn on in high mode.
Is the relative ease with which the Hound Dog Super's head turns from high to low (and beyond) a characteristic of the MD bodies when mated with any of the smaller MD2 and MDX heads, or is it unique to just the larger diameter Hound Dog heads? Is the wobble that tuelleric mentions present in all Malkoffs with a high/low ring, or once again is it just an issue with the larger heads of the HD and especially the HD Super? My Super I got last week is the first Malkoff light I've had (I have several drop-ins, but all mounted in Surefires). I was immediately surprised at how effortlessly the head rotated.....I find myself really torquing it down to make sure it doesn't inadvertently back off of the high setting on its own after some moderate handling. My guess is that this is occurring because of the Super's head being larger than any other heads Malkoff has made, and that the diameter is allowing it a greater torque advantage on the o-ring of the body than with the smaller heads. But as I said, I've never played with any of the other Malkoff lights, so maybe this isn't unique to just the HD Super.
 

Woods Walker

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Add another 8:25 on the M31L using alky 1xAA. I think that's a total of 18:30 so far. Turning it on again for some more time and also will try to run that M61N in MD2 test today or tomorrow. Maybe a M61LL as well as now have both heads for the MD2 so can campare 3500 mAh protected between the two. Before had the M61LL in a C2 with 16650. I think the on off thing is a good way to test the 1XAA as that's what would be done in a black out. Run during the night and off during the day. It's always brighter after a rest.

 

etc

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I want one of these M31* modules.


Back to M361N, I have been running it for the last month. mixed results. The lowest mode is a bit too low for the every day stuff. And it's a pain to constantly switch into medium. The high mode is nice but consumes more Amps than the M61. I wonder why that is.

So, it's a nice light for an emergency perhaps, or some travel, where to preserve mAh, always run it in lowest, which only consumes 50 mAh. Not the best example for EDC.

That reminds me. I should run a test between M61LL and M361N on lowest. Or M61L and M361N on medium.

I think for every day usage, or perhaps some travel, a single mode 6P with M61LL is the ideal recipe. The lumens are just right, the runtime is respectable. For me.

The last time I traveled, I used a 9P loaded with M61LLL and 3x123 so the lumens were almost at the M61LL level due to higher voltage. My logic was, if I need to use 2xAA configuration after running out of 123s, I can.
This time however, I think I prefer M61LL and a more compact 6P loaded with 2x123.

Although, a 9P loaded with M61LL is also very tempting for travel purposes while 6P rules for an EDC format. Of all the Malkoff modules, arguably M61LL is the most practical. M61 for example is nice but the runtime suffers.
 

Woods Walker

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Woody, you got 18+ hrs off a M31L on 1xAA?

Yes and it shows no signs of stopping. Will turn it back on once
home in a few hours. Mobile now. At first I was surprised but shouldn't of been. It was bright when first turned on. Forgot if I posted the photos but never was in regulation. Some strange behavior though for example once turned off sometimes it would need a minute to power up to turn it self back on. Always after a rest it comes on much brighter.

I am doing omnivore testing on it. A bit different than runtime tests. So am running it for 4-8 hours at a clip. Also have nearly depleted cr123 used up during this weekends cold snap horror show. Was in the 70s last week but the temp was 5 with a -10 wind chill so was burning through old CR123s during wood prep and cookng. Also burned my sock warming a cold foot. So now that I am back in the world will test the nearly rundowns in the m31l. Also gotta do test for 2x L91 and L92. Run the 3500 test on the m61n plus redo the 2x NiMH and do AAA X1 and 2. Also test a fresh 1400 mAh SF CR123 primary. I got the G3 setup to run everything below 3.3 Volts just gotta see how it does.

Edit. I hate posting mobile from the browser. Have the CPF application. Going to try that.

edit again.

It does power up with NiMH 1xAAA and 2XAAA just like AA (and why wouldn't it). Will do a runtime test later on AAA but resuming the AA alky test now.
 
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