6P + DX6090 early impressions

[kramer5150]

It took about 2 weeks for each item to arrive, light, drop in, cells and charger. I found the whole DX ordering experience pleasant and trouble free.

White-wall reveals a nice tight central hot spot with a little ringy-halo-ness as the spot transitions to flood. Overall its slightly more floody than my Cree Task Force, and doing a ceiling bounce test yielded just a little more Lumens out of the 6090. I would say maybe ~15% more light out of the 6090, very slight to say the least, but a difference just barely worth noting. The tint of the 6090 is a little more yellow and warmer than the task force... thats a good thing in my book.

I just got my DX Lithium 3.7V charger so tonight I spent some time with my new 6P and DX SXU:6090 setup. Went out for a 30 minute walk with the kids on their bikes. They're still learning so I need to make sure to light the path well ahead of them as they go.

I could illuminate the sidewalk thoroughly for about 35 yards (est.), and could easily pick out details in trees and branches across the streets. Color rendition also seemed better too compared to the Task Force, although I think I need to spend some more time to comment any further on that. The slight white wall ringy-ness completely disappeared out and about in the real world and the central hot spot flexed its muscle, easily lighting our path for dozens of yards ahead.

We came back for a nice hot bath, and just for the heck of it we dimmed the lights in the bathroom and I gave each kid a Nuwai light and I left the 6P turned on for the duration of the ~25 minutes. My kids are little flashaholics and like to use waterproof flashlights in the water like bath-toys. I left the 6P on the counter and to my surprise... it was very warm after ~25 minutes. Like a warm cup of soup. I expected the head to be warm, but the shocker was that the entire light... body to tailcap was equally warm as the head!! Initial thought was OH Noes!! something is cooking. I immediately turned it off and took the cells out, fearing a nuclear holocaust. To my surprise, the cells were considerably cooler than the body/head of the light. So... the aluminum body was definitely doing its job conducting heat away from the pill and cells. Thumbs up to surefire for really doing their homework and executing such a robust thermal design.

After almost an hour of total run time, I noticed the hot spot started to dim and turn more gray/yellow tint. The cells were starting to dump, so I yanked them and immediately loaded my second pair.

So... thats where I am at the moment. I sit here typing away at my desk with a pair of depleted cells and a freshly reloaded 6P ready to go.

thanks for taking the time... I'm gonna step out for the night and compare beams with my task force.

Heres a video review...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOjxkvYFhmU

Hasta!!
:wave::wave::wave:

 

[katsyonak]

Thanks for the interesting review.
I have one of those and I'm happy with it. That's a good deal for this price IMO.

 

[generic808]

Oh yeah, the 6090 is a classic "cheap" drop-in in my book. I definitely think it's one of the best bang-for-the-buck P60's out there. I have 3 of them and they still get some good use regularly. If you think the 6090 has a warm tint, you should try a Q5 for an even warmer tint, which is very good in my book.

 

[kramer5150]

Oh yeah, the 6090 is a classic "cheap" drop-in in my book. I definitely think it's one of the best bang-for-the-buck P60's out there. I have 3 of them and they still get some good use regularly. If you think the 6090 has a warm tint, you should try a Q5 for an even warmer tint, which is very good in my book.

Yeah a Q5 emitter is a mod I want to do with both the 6090 and my task force.

 

[KDOG3]

I'd love to know the current draw of the 6090. I have one on the way and want to know if it would run in a G2

 

[Wattnot]

I'd love to know the current draw of the 6090. I have one on the way and want to know if it would run in a G2

I asked that same question in a different thread (has G2 and drop-in in the title, I believe) for the very same reason and someone said about 550ma.

 

[Justin Case]

I also recently purchased a Deal Extreme 6090 drop-in (actually four lamps). The DX6090 is claimed to handle 3V-18V. I was particularly interested in the 3V claim, hoping I could upgrade my weak 3P (it did, but I had to use 3.7V rechargeable batteries, as discussed later). I didn't test the DX6090 at 9V or 12V, although I could since I have a SureFire 12ZM.

I tested the DX6090 in a SureFire 6P (old style), G2 (with an old 6P metal bezel), 6R (a NiCd-powered version of the 6P), old 6Z, a modified L60 weaponlight module that I converted to a handheld light, and a 3P. I compared the beam performance to a standard 3P and 6P, SureFire 8NX (110 lumen X80 lamp), SureFire L4 (old 65 lumen version, new L4s are advertised as 100 lumens), and Night-Ops Gladius (original 80 lumen version).

The 6090 construction is good. It comes with a removable outer spring, which I had to take off for the various flashlight bezels to screw down completely. If I left the outer spring on, then there would be a gap (~2 mm) between the body and the bezel. the o-ring still is engaged, but the gap is cosmetically ugly and can collect a lot of junk. The LED looks centered in the reflector upon visual exam. 3 of the 4 lamps looked identical. The 4th was a little longer in overall length. The reason was that the brass part (heat sink) that contains the circuit board and LED emitter board would not screw down as far as for the other lamps. I think it's because the heat sink of the offending lamp has some slightly messed up lead-in threads and they bind after about a turn or so. I covered the brass "pill" with some protective paper, gripped it in some pliers, and managed to turn the pill past the resistance. Now it turns easily by hand and the overall length is fine.

Fit is good, although the 6R and G2 required a bit of twiddling of the 6090 for good function. I had to unscrew the heat sink about a turn to make good electrical contact between the brass heat sink and the SureFire flashlight body. If you look inside of the tube from the bezel end, you will see a machined "shoulder" where the outer spring for a standard P60 lamp makes electrical contact. Since I removed the 6090's outer spring, I had to depend on direct contact of the brass heat sink with the machined
"shoulder".

I estimate that the reflector diameter edge-to-edge is 26.5 mm. The overall height from top of reflector to tip of the center spring is approximately 39 mm (with the brass heat sink screwed in all the way). Max height is about 41 mm if I unscrew the heat sink almost all the way, so there is some degree of height adjustment possible. The various SureFire P60-based flashlights seem to have slight variations in internal dimensions, so having some ability to adjust the lamp fit is useful.

DX6090 distance between the top edge of the reflector and the`bottom edge of the brass heat sink is about 28 mm.

A P60 lamp is also 26.5 mm diameter. It is about 36 mm long. Distance from the top edge of the reflector to the far end of the outer spring is about 31-32 mm (compare this to thedreflector to heat sink distance of 28 mm for the DX6090).

Thus, I don't think that any electrical contact issue involves the center spring contact. The DX6090 is plenty long overall. I think that the electrical contact issue only involves contact between the flashlight's body tube with the DX6090's brass heat sink.

The 28 mm dimension for the DX6090 is sometimes just a little short. For example, backing out the heat sink so that the distance from the top of the reflector to the bottom of the heat sink is 29 mm seems to give reliable
function in my 6R.

I suppose that instead of removing the 6090's outer spring, you could clip off a turn or so of the outer spring to shorten it. I did not explore this avenue.

Beam quality is acceptable. As I alluded to above, the lamp can unscrew into two pieces -- the aluminum reflector and the brass heat sink (which also contains the regulator circuit board and the LED emitter). When the heat sink is fully screwed into the reflector, the beam has some dark rings that are visible in a white wall test (not overly noticeable when illuminating common room clutter). However, you can adjust the beam smoothness somewhat by unscrewing the heat sink a turn or two. That makes any dark rings much less visible in a white wall test.

All 4 lamps are very bright. Brighter hot spot and side spill than the P60-based SureFires, Gladius, 8NX, and L4.

Regardless of being driven by two 123A lithiums or one NiCd pack, the DX6090 lamp showed the same brightness.

I didn't measure current draw (all I have is an old Simpson meter anyway).

I need to test outdoors for "throw". But indoor use looks fine. Initial beam examinations were done in my office, about 7 feet from the wall. Excellent hot spot and good side spill -- probably about an 8 foot overall'beam diameter at about 7 feet for the 6090/G2, 6R, 6P, 6Z, and 3P. About 6.5 feet diameter for the 6090/L60.

The stock 6P and 8NX overall beam diameters are larger -- both are about 12 ft diam at 7 feet. The Gladius's beam diameter is just slightly wider than the DX6090's. The SureFire L4 side spill diameter is about 12 ft. The central hot spot isn't very bright, and has a slight donut hole in the center. The L4 beam is well-known to be more of a flood than a spot or even a mixed spot/flood.

The 6090/L60 beam diameter is less than the 090/G2/6R/6P/6Z/3P beam diameter probably because the DX6090 lamp is recessed farther from the lens in the L60 than in the G2/6x/3P. The greater recess distance
arises from the rubber shock absorption system in the L60 head. In fact, if I put the P60 lamp back in the L60, the side spill diameter is 8 feet at 7 feet, which is less than the beam diameter for a P60 in a 6P.

I also tested the lights down a 16 ft long hallway in my basement and the 6090 lamps have a very bright hot spot with useful side spill.

Beam color is good. Whiter than the Gladius, which looks blue in comparison. Whiter than my original L4. Incandescent beams (P30, P60, and X80 lamps) look yellowish (no surprise there).

Note, to get high brightness in the 3P, I used an AW 3.7V protected RCR123A cell, not a standard 3V 123A primary cell. If I used a stock SureFire 123A cell, then the DX6090 output was comparable to the stock P30 lamp's output (whiter light, but visually about the same overall brightness). Run time with the RCR123A cell is fine -- I measured about 50 minutes before the beam brightness started to decrease. Even at 60 minutes, the beam was bright (I'd say comparable to a P60-driven 6P), just not as bright as with a fresh cell.

I've basically upgraded several of my old P60-based SureFires and given new life to my 3P with these DX6090 drop-ins.

IMO, the price-performance is excellent.

 

[roymail]

I believe JayT has measure the #6090's current draw at 600mA (approx). Expect about 90 minutes on 6V... more or less. :duh2:

 

[Justin Case]

Interestingly, when I tested extended runtime in the 3P using one AW cell, the flashlight never got warmer than what the unit might feel like after removing from a trouser pocket (basically, warmed only from body heat). When I ran a 6Z/DX6090 combo driven by two AW cells, the light got noticeably warm, though not burning hot or uncomfortable to the touch. I quit after 15 minutes since I didn't want to risk damaging anything. I did immediately disassemble the DX6090 pill from the reflector. The white goo that appears to hold the LED base to the heat sink looked fine. I didn't notice any softening, loosening, or other problems.

The hot spot is an acceptable size for my interests (self-defense). At about 7-8 feet, the hot spot is just about the width of a human torso (as tested on my Spar Pro striking dummy). I like a hot spot that can cover the torso so that I can see what might be held by the potential "weapon platform", but not so large in diameter that the intensity is sacrificed. Perhaps the hot spot could be just slightly larger, but it is acceptable.

 

[katsyonak]

I just tested the #6090's current draw and here's what I got with my DMM:

On 2 x AW RCR123 the current draw is: 580mA
On 1 x AW 17670 the current draw is: 500mA

 

[MstrHnky]

nice video review. thanks for taking the time to show us that!

 

[Spypro]

I would like to know how the regulation looks like with RCR123.

 

[kramer5150]

I would like to know how the regulation looks like with RCR123.

FWIW... I ran the 6090 with a pair of completely dead SF OEM primaries and it behaved as though it were unregulated. Lamp output diminished gradually with cell-depletion. It also turned a pukey-green/yellow tint. These primary cells were in the recycle dumpster, too depleted to even light the incan P60. To my surprise, I got a few days of sporatic use out of them as the cells completely dumped.

I imagine behavior of the 6090 with RCR123s would depend heavily on the characteristics of the protection circuit in the cells. If protection cuts off abruptly at 2.75, the 6090 would do likewise.

 

[kramer5150]

I just tested the #6090's current draw and here's what I got with my DMM:

On 2 x AW RCR123 the current draw is: 580mA
On 1 x AW 17670 the current draw is: 500mA

DX REALLY needs to make a Q5 module that spits out a legit 1A with 9V input stability for use with 3.7V RCRs. Or at least make the driver... people can solder up the rest. Multi mode would be sweet, 300mA / 600mA / 1200mA. Heck throw in a low-low mode too for max run time.

I think (speculating) module manufacturers are worried about heat dissipation in the G2 and perhaps other lights.

 

[roymail]

I just tested the #6090's current draw and here's what I got with my DMM:

On 2 x AW RCR123 the current draw is: 580mA
On 1 x AW 17670 the current draw is: 500mA

I wonder how much runtime could be expected with 1 x 17670? Any idea?

 

[Spypro]

FWIW... I ran the 6090 with a pair of completely dead SF OEM primaries and it behaved as though it were unregulated. Lamp output diminished gradually with cell-depletion. It also turned a pukey-green/yellow tint. These primary cells were in the recycle dumpster, too depleted to even light the incan P60. To my surprise, I got a few days of sporatic use out of them as the cells completely dumped.

I imagine behavior of the 6090 with RCR123s would depend heavily on the characteristics of the protection circuit in the cells. If protection cuts off abruptly at 2.75, the 6090 would do likewise.

Thank you for your answer. I will use AW's RCR123 with the drop-in. I hope there will be at least 1 hour of regulation.

 

[KDOG3]

I just tested the #6090's current draw and here's what I got with my DMM:

On 2 x AW RCR123 the current draw is: 580mA
On 1 x AW 17670 the current draw is: 500mA

THats good to know. Any chance of measure it on 2 cr123s? 500-ishmah sounds like it would survive pretty well in a G2...

 

[KDOG3]

But only 90 mins runtime on 2 CR123s? That sounds kinda low for 550mah. Shouldn't it be like 2.5hrs?

 

[roymail]

But only 90 mins runtime on 2 CR123s? That sounds kinda low for 550mah. Shouldn't it be like 2.5hrs?

KDOG3, I hope you're right. Maybe JayT or someone who know lots more than me can jump in and answer that. :thinking:

 

[katsyonak]

THats good to know. Any chance of measure it on 2 cr123s? 500-ishmah sounds like it would survive pretty well in a G2...

I'll test it when I'm back home on Sunday.