85 vs. ROP Question

[Beer]

I'm thinking about building my first Mag85. I'll most likley go the traditional route first with a 3D holding 9 AA's.

My issue I have though is I have 3 ROP's, with my 4D running 6 sub C NIMH cells being my brightest.

Is it a large enough jump in brightness from my ROP to the Mag85 to build another light?

 

[mdocod]

my opinion is that the 1185, 5761, ROP, and many other similar wattage mods are all in the same "ballpark" as far as output is concerned, each has certain advantages and disadvantages and you can often see slight differences in output in use but not enough to make a real world difference that moves the light into a new category of capabilities.

It is my opinion, that if you are in the market for a "brighter" light, then you should make a substantial step, not a minor step, as small steps in brightness difference are not enough to matter.

The progression is as follows IMO:

start at the usual ~30W mod, maybe have a few around like you do because they are a nice useful utility to own, (ROP, 1185, 5761, 1111, many others, etc etc).

then build a 100W toy.

then maybe shoot for something insane, like cramming 300-1000W into a mag, (good luck).

 

[Icebreak]

To my eyes it is definitely worth the effort. I have had a similar experience to yours with ROPs. My 5C using 6 sub Cs outperforms my other ROPS. My 9 series GP 2200 4/5 sub C Mag85 outperforms my other 85s. But my 9 series CBP 1600 AA Mag85 is brighter and tighter than any of my ROPS. It's not magnitudes brighter but it is noticeably brighter than my 6 sub C ROP. Just remember that you've been spoiled by the semi-flat output and long runtime of the sub C cells. I see CBP has Sanyos now. If I were to build another 3D Mag85 I'd go with the Elite 1700 AAs from CheapBatteryPacks.

Wow. I just saw they have a new to me 5000mAh sub C.

 

[Evil Twin]

I have a 2C Li-ion ROP light and a 3C Li-ion Mag85. The difference between the two of them is not very noticeable to me, as far as brightness goes. Keep in mind that this is just what I see by looking at them, as I do not have a lux meter or anything.

The main thing you should keep in mind is that the ROP (High) bulb pulls more amperage than the 1185 bulb. This means you'll get longer runtime with the Mag85 if you are using cells that are the same capacity. I get about 40 minutes on my ROP and 55 minutes with the Mag85 (3300Mah cells).

Hope this helps. :thumbsup:

 

[missionaryman]

a good ROP and a good MAG85 are both pretty bright and about the same. If you want something a little brighter you might want to try adding a 4/5 Sub C into the tailcap of one of your 6AA ROPs and that will drive it closer to the limit.

If you want noticeable brightness increase and like the 2D/3D sub 12v formula you need to go to the 64430 - 70w when driven at around the 9.5v mark

 

[Beer]

a good ROP and a good MAG85 are both pretty bright and about the same. If you want something a little brighter you might want to try adding a 4/5 Sub C into the tailcap of one of your 6AA ROPs and that will drive it closer to the limit.

If you want noticeable brightness increase and like the 2D/3D sub 12v formula you need to go to the 64430 - 70w when driven at around the 9.5v mark

Actually I am currently using a 'shope' 8aa to 2d adapter with 7 enloops and a dummy cell in my ROP LO setup. That bulb LOVES the volatage. I was thinking about trying to run all 8 cells to a HO bulb...but after looking at Lux's destrutive bulb testing thread I'm pretty sure that would instaflash it.

As for the ROP hireacrcy in my house it goes:

ROP 4D with 6 Elite 4600mAh Sub C's
ROP 2C with 2 AW protected C LiOn's
ROP LO 2D with 7 enloops

If I'm not going to see much of a difference in output with a 85, I guess it's time to start looking at 70 - 100w builds :devil:

 

[EvilPaul2112]

I agree that my 2C ROP HOLAs are almost as bright as my 3C M@G85, but the 85 has alot more total light output. The 85 has alittle more throw, a larger hot spot, and ALOT more spill. The 85 is my favorite duty light due to its "wall of light" beam. (I also love the runtime from AW's C cells).

 

[missionaryman]

I agree that my 2C ROP HOLAs are almost as bright as my 3C M@G85, but the 85 has alot more total light output. The 85 has alittle more throw, a larger hot spot, and ALOT more spill. The 85 is my favorite duty light due to its "wall of light" beam. (I also love the runtime from AW's C cells).

the 1185 actually has a smaller filament than the ROP - H so should therefore give you a smaller tighter spot, this differences you're pointing out sound like different types of reflector finishes.

I did prefer my 85 to my ROP because you could get a whiter and slightly - ever so slightly brighter beam from the 1185

 

[sb_pete]

My 9AA-3D 1185 is noticeably brighter than both my 6AA-2D and 2x18500-2C ROP's. I think it is well worth the effort. I really love the beam of an 1185 with a FM MOP reflector.

 

[FredM]

How do you guys actually use these lights.

I left mine on for 15+ minutes and it was to hot to hold.

 

[EvilPaul2112]

How do you guys actually use these lights.

I left mine on for 15+ minutes and it was to hot to hold.

I Install Download's C Tower in all my duty lights. The heat sink soaks up and transfers heat very well, allowing me to run them for extended periods without melting internal parts. Once, while searching for a suspect I ran my 3C M@G85 for 20 minutes with no off time. The body was very warm and I had no problems holding it. The head on the other hand was very HOT.

When installing the C Tower I apply thermal grease to aid in heat management. Also, all my M@G switches have the resistance reduced by soldering a piece of doubled-up solder wick to the spring cup, through the spring and solder to the upper contact. The ground is also removed and replaced with doubled-up solder wick from the anchor set screw on the switch to the cam-action screw on the lamp tower. This system works well for me.

 

[Evil Twin]

How do you guys actually use these lights.

I left mine on for 15+ minutes and it was to hot to hold.

I hope you didn't just turn it on, let it sit there, and then try to pick it up? As long as you are holding it up by the head, your hand acts as a nice heatsink for the light.

Like EvilPaul did, I have one of the MagC Tower heatsinks in both my ROP and Mag85. I ran the Mag85 for around 20 minutes straight and the head was very hot, but I could still touch it. After that run I measured the head and body to be between 100-107 degrees F.