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Sold/Expired announcing the GOTHAM by Leef and Milky

AndyTiedye

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Lighthound seems to have the wrong pictures for the light on its site.
lefp1dcenkl.jpg


I was all set to order one, but I want one that looks like the picture YOU posted, not this!
 

cave dave

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Did I miss what the drive currents were? It would be best if all the info were in the first post.

I totally dig the new barfing pacman logo!

I also like the total honesty of the logarithmic output chart even if it down plays the performance of the light.
 

tanasit

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They fixed the picture but when I click "Add to cart", I received the error message,"Unable to add product....not enough in stock?" :confused:

Lighthound seems to have the wrong pictures for the light on its site.


I was all set to order one, but I want one that looks like the picture YOU posted, not this!
 

Mad1

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Leef said:
Regarding reflectors -- obviously, with a light of this quality, we'd use the best reflector we could get. Cost would be no impediment. But Scott tried the IMS and felt that it performed better than others, offering a better mix of spill and throw. I'm sure he'd be willing to install other reflectors (any that fit) if anyone wants them (Scott -- true?).

I've got an IMS20 in my ML-1 and it's a great reflector. I've also got a SSC P4 USWOH in it too, so basicly same reflector and emitter.

The beam is similar to my Fenix P2D just a slightly smaller hotspot.

tanasit: give it time hes probably just added it to the site.
 
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Bullzeyebill

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Your explanation is correct. Re copper vs aluminum (literally), the copper heatsink draws off the heat from the led quickly and can not dump the heat into the aluminum body fast enough, as Al does not absorb heat as fast as copper. So, two different rates of heat conductivity and the copper heatsink just sits there getting hotter and hotter. The aluminum heatsink, while not as efficient a conductor of heat than copper, allows a steady mostly uninterrupted rate of heat transfer to the aluminum body.

Bill
 

milkyspit

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Okay, I started writing this then all three kids started screaming, dinner was served in the Milky house, one kid got in trouble and sent upstairs, on and on and on... only now am I finishing up the post! My apologies if it's a little outdated.
:sigh:


They fixed the picture but when I click "Add to cart", I received the error message,"Unable to add product....not enough in stock?" :confused:

Well, technically I guess that's true, they don't have any in stock right now... but they will pretty darned soon, unless my sources are mistaken. ;)

Maybe send an email to them to let them know you'd like to preorder? I think that would hold your place in line.


Did I miss what the drive currents were? It would be best if all the info were in the first post.

I totally dig the new barfing pacman logo!

I also like the total honesty of the logarithmic output chart even if it down plays the performance of the light.


Did I miss what the drive currents were?

I'll take the blame for not posting those. The output currents on 1x18650 are...

Max (a.k.a. High): 900mA
Medium: 270mA
Low: 54mA
Ultralow: 2.3mA

There's a bit of variation from unit to unit due to component tolerances, as is the case with any flashlight... but the above should be pretty close.

It would be best if all the info were in the first post.

I think eventually most/all the info will be there... trouble is, both Leef and I have the info and since he started the thread, only he has edit privileges... but we'll work it out, it would be better.

I totally dig the new barfing pacman logo!

:eek:oo:

I also like the total honesty of the logarithmic output chart even if it down plays the performance of the light.

Well, might as well give folks a realistic picture of the light's performance, as Gotham was designed for maximal real-world usability... so if a potential owner wants to press it into everyday service, it ought to do well... at least that was the goal!

Anyway, many thanks for the kind words... I know it means a lot to Leef, and it certainly does to me. Much appreciated, everyone! :eek:
 

Leef

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Bullzeyebill, thanx for that explanation. It sounds plausible. I think you're saying that if the light body were Cu, then the Cu sink would be better?

What do you think abt. using heat conducting paste between the sink and body? The clearance is .001" to .002".

Someone asked for the drive currents. Scott posted them and I copied them ti the first post. I'll try to do this with any new info that comes to my attention.
 
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zk188

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Will you offer a low priced model in bare al and no milling.because i really want one of these lights will never be able to afford it:broke:.
 
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Long John

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What do you think abt. using heat conducting paste between the sink and body? The clearance is .001" to .002".

Sorry that I chime in but thermal paste is a must because without, it's a weakening of the thermal-path and all should be done to optimize the heat transfer.

Best regards

____
Tom
 

Leef

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Long John, do you mean something like Arctic Alumina or CW's Silver Conductive Grease?

Will thermal paste thin when it gets warm and possibly run into places it shouldn't be? I'll check the vendors' pages.
 

Leef

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Here's a review thread from one (or more) of our beta testers:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/170652

McGizmo, the man his own self, has this to say:

I find the non concentric or symetric about the major axis, mill work on the surface to be quite refreshing and interesting!! No doubt some of us may have invisioned similar deviations, in general, from the common place but thinking about it and doing it are two different things! You guys did it, and nicely! Cool! :D

What an honor. I should explain the process.

I was discussing the light with my CNC shop. Their resident artist John (this guy is building a violin at home!) made a few suggestions and sketches. I thought one sketch looked promising, but I couldn't translate a 2-D paper sketch into what a 3-D light would look like. So John spent who-knows-how many hours programming the CNC mill and made a prototype. After about 15 seconds of looking at it, I was pretty sure it was what I wanted. After another minute or so, I knew it was right.

It was.

So, most of the credit for the design isn't mine, rather it's John's.
 
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Leef

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Regarding my post #54 (thermal grease), further discussion with Scott on this topic suggests that he's come up with what looks like an even better way to transfer heat, which also has another benefit.

Now, Scott's a nice guy, but I don't want to rile him...so I ain't sayin' no more (a method so secret he'd have to kill me before telling me, and all that...). But maybe he'll tell...:crackup:

Or maybe not. That's show biz. :shrug:
 

IsaacHayes

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Yes thermal grease or epoxy between each thermal interface is required. Even if you had a super tight "vacuum" tolerances you need it to fill in the tiny pores and surface irregularity.
 

yaesumofo

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Re: announcing the GOTHAM by Leaf and Milky

Interesting design guys. Nice work. I have a pretty good idea how difficult a project of this nature is to pull off. Congratulations. I am sure the light will speak for itself once in the hands of a few end users. It is quite a departure form the "norm". I am sure your milling time must have gone up dramatically. Unfortunately, I can't decide if I like the milling or if I find it distracting.
I wonder if the unit shown is a finished product?
There are a great many machine marks on the unit shown. While I am sure that some people find them attractive....
Will these be polished out before being plated?
Why nickle instead of Hard chrome?

Just plating the unit will not remove the machine marks.
Since you have used a much harder alloy, I would guess that polishing the unit may prove somewhat more difficult, thus making it more difficult to attain a perfect finish.
IMHO a type III finish in black contrasting with bare metal will look very nice. So would a completly black Type III finish look great. If I bought one I would likely finish mine in a black high gloss type III hard anodizing.

Does the light run hot when driven at it's max? How does 7075 compare to 6061 in terms of heat conductivity?

Will the finished product maintain the ipx7 spec?


You have made a great choice in the outlet for your flashlight.
Lighthound is also my first choice for purchasing flashlight's and components.
Georges 80 is absolutely the best in the business. I have never had any problems with any of his drivers. I own several lights with Georges 80 drivers they are easy to operate and they are very reliable.

Good luck with the sale guys. I will be watching closely.

Yaesumofo
 
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