Anyone mod a Jetbeam MKII (not X) with Cree or SSC?

[LEDcandle]

Sold my Jetbeams a long time back and can't remember how the internals look like. Does the converter have the 2 holes for a needlenose plier or is it lacking those holes, like the Jetbeam CL-E?

Was there lotsa loctite/threadlocker on the head?

I don't remember reading anybody modding a Jetbeam MkI or MkII before, but I might have missed the thread. Any advice?

I want a Cree/SSC Jetbeam clickie, but don't like the complicated MKIIx interface. I don't like how it switches to Advanced when switched off from low. Was thinking of getting a MKII and swap out the LED, but wanted to know if it could be accessed fairly easily in the first place.

Thanks in advance!

 

[jsr]

I've been waiting for someone to try this mod also, but I haven't seen anyone successful yet. My MK1 head is sealed very tight. The board does have the 2 notches, but it doesn't budge. I've tried heating it a bit, but still no luck. I'm with you, I don't like the complicated UI of the MKIIx. I have a 2-stage switch on my MK1 and it's perfectly fine. If I could just swap in a SSC or something, that'd be great.

 

[LEDcandle]

I might attempt this mod after buying one of 'em 'repaired' MKIIs from Emil's site... but I'm afraid I might not be able to open it. I failed with my L1P and I failed with my CL-E as well, even with heating. I guess I need one of 'em strap wrenches or something.

I had the 2-stage MKI setup too... don't like that because roughly 50% of the time you start in the mode that you don't want. A low-high-off is better than low-off-high-off; to me at least.

If I attempt the mod, I'll post back. Meanwhile, anyone who has successfully opened an MK and has tips, pls do tell!!

 

[koala]

It can be done but read on...
There are five parts that makes up the head.

#1 HAIII bezel,
#2 lens
#3 reflector (screwed in), held by super-heat-resist-glue
#4 thin aluminium can with notches, held by super-heat-resist-glue
#5 electronics in brass can, filled with heat resist gray epoxy

From the back of the bezel, you should be able to see #4 and #5. My unit was glued dead. I used a custom made tool for the #4 unscrew but the can was too weak it collapse on itself. More twist strength means stress and pressure on the #1 bezel and it may deform, and you get an ugly #1 bezel.

When clamping the #1 bezel, clamp it a little above the glass lens, so the clamp pressure will not break the #2 glass lens. The #1 bezel is very thin any pressure will make it oval, so clamp at the position where the #3 reflector is. The reflector is solid. It's best to use those clamp with rubber grip or make some wooden grips. Beware that wooden grips can scratch the HAIII if they slip, which will happen because you will need enormous amount of twist to convince yourself that the #4 is impossible to unscrew.

So after hours of heating and swollen hands from the attempt of #4, I lost the notches because of slippage. It's a confirm that my unit is glued with some sort of superglue that resist from heating. It's such a strong glue I would love to know what it is. #5 can be pried out. It sits in the alloy can held up by the wires going to the Luxeon. Once it's out don't expect your light to work again. Because wires to the Luxeon is broken.

Now you'll see how thin the walls of #4 can. So there is only 1 way which is to dremel he #4 can. I left #3 reflector as it is because I'll need to destroy it for removal.

So for conclusion, I am left with a bezel and reflector. My #5 electronics still works but it is a loose fit and I will need something to sit the Luxeon because #4 is no more. For experience, I have mod several Fenix lights, surefire bezels, ARCs and many others I have not yet come across such a light with so much resist. If you are lucky you might own a unit with less glue.

Vince.

 

[LEDcandle]

Holy Cow, Koala.... looks like Jetbeam will defend itself to the death! Thanks for the extremely detailed writeup. It looks so hard that I may be better off getting the MKIIx and just avoid switching it off on low..... I dunno if I'm up to trying something that will prob kill me and spoil the light. :shrug:

 

[nanotech17]

that is why they have a lifetime warranty .

 

[koala]

This thread needs some pics so here we go...
The circuit is identical to this JetBeam C-LE by chimo. It's such a nicely designed light with my favourite natural HAIII. The light UI just screams to be rebuilt. It gives my thumb the cramp everytime I activate the switch. The flicker at low beam Yucks! As a software developer, I hate it so much. I am really glad to have my Atmel AVR uc ready to go.

This black goo(I refuse to call it epoxy) is so hard my drills are rounded after a while of drilling!!! It's resistance to heat!
In case you are wondering, it is still working. One day I will do some efficiency test run, but I doubt I would do that, it's known not as good as Fenix circuits. I don't know why they even bother to fill it with the black cement, it isn't even the ultimate circuit. Jetbeam damn kiasu, as if others would copy their weak circuits. Can't Jetbeam just leave it bare like the C-LE and give me a chance to reprogram that PIC chip?! It makes you very tulan and waste of time to crack it.

Yes I made two more notches so I could slide my tool in thinking I could unscrew, unfortunately no... twisting the brass can means breaking the wires to the luxeon. I manage to remove the brass can.

Missing from the picture is the thin alloy can, now has deceased and become aluminium dust... The reflector is held by similiar glue.
As you can see, I did a rough/bad job, my dremel bits were too short I took off abit of HAIII from the lips of the bezel :mecry::mecry:

So in short to summarize, this Jetbeam MKII Luxeon gets the award for CPF most kiasu light.
Even the epoxy filled ARC AAA or the CMG Infinity Ultra can't touch it. It kills ALL lights in terms of mod friendliness. s
This light is hostile in Homemade and Modified lights should be moved to Questions/Problems/Suggestions

 

[LEDcandle]

Thanks for the great pics man!!

Looks like a real toughie... that gunk better not even be the slightest bit conductive, or the circuit board is gonna fail in time. Last time I modded a chinese light and filled the whole can with a claimed 'non-conductive' thermal silicon.. but after a couple of days the light dimmed and died. I tested the LED and it still worked fine but the converter was dead.

I thought it might be a bad converter so I tried out the mod again, and did the same thing, but it also died. So I then switched to direct drive and it worked. I should have tested the gunk with my DMM first! Apparently it does have trace conductivity.

 

[koala]

So what do you do when you empty out the guts of a Jetbeam? :naughty:
Answer: Rebuild the light engine with better parts.

First of all, measure the diameter of the body that goes in to the bezel.
Just cut a strip of paper and wrap it around the threads and mark the length.

Reduce the actual diameter a bit so it fits in to the bezel.

This is my preference when it comes to lightengine rebuild.
Not too thick just right for bending, cutting and very good thermal transfer.

Also the height of the light engine must be measured by the depth of the bezel.

I use a round nose pliers. This is actually a tool for opening crimp rings. It's very good tool for making rings.

Adjust for a good fit. A tight fit is good for thermal transfer but harder to remove.

What's this?

A stock Fenix L1P circuit from previous upgrade.
It's a good and efficient circuit. Pumping 210mA to the Lux I SWOH.
I'll install a USXOH P4 next time. The rear of the circuit is soldered to the copper wall/ring.
I don't quite like the idea of modding the reflector to suit a Cree as the reflector is designed for Luxeon dome.

Completed light engine. The copper is too thick I had to use the aluminium sheet.

A bit of gap(2mm) there, installing a SSC P4 will take care of the extra height .

Stock L1P vs JetBeam(L1P circuit + SWOH)

Stock L1P vs JetBeam(L1P circuit + SWOH)

I don't like the SWOH at all, I don't like WO tint too bad it's hard to find H vf Lux. I prefer a little blue tint like the L1P. In this case, the JetBeam has a brighter spill. Can't wait to stuff a USXOH in to it. Sorry for the many pics, but I know you guys dig it :naughty:.

 

[jsr]

Hellz yah we liked it! Damn, that's some kick-arss work there koala! I thought your Jet1 head was out-of-round from you trying to remove the LE? I assume the new LE is held in by pressure from the tube to the reflector? It should scream with a SSC P4 in there! I think DX also offers a few 1AA drivers that may pump a bit more current to the LED.

 

[koala]

Yes indeed, the light engine can be poped out(tight fit) if the bezel is removed from the body tube. I am still looking for a good AA boost, the DX ones looks like Zetex300 from the pictures.

Hellz yah we liked it! Damn, that's some kick-arss work there koala! I thought your Jet1 head was out-of-round from you trying to remove the LE? I assume the new LE is held in by pressure from the tube to the reflector? It should scream with a SSC P4 in there! I think DX also offers a few 1AA drivers that may pump a bit more current to the LED.