Ashperic Nitecore D20

Tekno_Cowboy

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 2, 2008
Messages
1,680
Location
Minnesota
Here's the results of my latest project :devil:

Mix:
1 fried D20
1 20mm ashperic lens
1 GD750

add some heatsinking and o-rings, pot with AA, and voila!

Looks stock doesn't it :D
IMG_1004.JPG


But it's not :naughty:
IMG_1005.JPG


Here's the custom module
IMG_1007.JPG


I potted the bottom of the driver, the brass ring is pressed in, and provides a better negative connection to the driver board. No matter what i did, I couldn't get that darn positive contact centered though :(
IMG_1009.JPG


Here's what it looks like apart.
IMG_1010.JPG


Hmmm... I should really pot the led too :sssh:
IMG_1011.JPG


Here's a couple of beamshots. I couldn't figure out how to remove the halo though :thinking:
IMG_1013.JPG

IMG_1015.JPG
 
Cool Tekno

Wouldnt worry too much about the "halo", its kinda normal
for aspheric setups ;)
 
Nice Mod, could you take some comperison beamshots, for example with a stock D20?


Greetings from Germany
Fritz
 
Last edited:
The waiting. is going to kill me. :D

I'll see what i can do with regards to beamshot comparisons, but i no longer own a stock D20, only the nicely floody SSC D20 modded by Tekno_Cowboy too.
 
How would one open the D20 to get at the guts? Is it similar to a D10?

it's the same as the Ex10, just unscrew the bezel, remove glass and oring and it all just drops out. The led isnt glued in, so it's just the 2 wires to de/solder. be sure to isolate the slug from the heatsink when u install a new led. led+stars are already isolated, bare emittors are not.
 
it's the same as the Ex10, just unscrew the bezel, remove glass and oring and it all just drops out. The led isnt glued in, so it's just the 2 wires to de/solder. be sure to isolate the slug from the heatsink when u install a new led. led+stars are already isolated, bare emittors are not.

I bought a D20 from 47 NC surplus sale.

Good know. Thanks! :thumbsup:
 
I picked up the lens at thorlabs. The prices are quite a bit higher than your typical China-made stuff, but the service is top notch :thumbsup:
 
Some news???:poke:

+1 :)

Sorry about the lack of beamshots, been a tad busy, and being sick and all doesn't help.

Subjectively, it throws better than my 3AA direct driven MC-E mag, and since its regulated, will continue to throw that well while the mag tapers off within 5 seconds or so.
 
Here's the results of my latest project :devil:

Mix:
1 fried D20
1 20mm ashperic lens
1 GD750

add some heatsinking and o-rings, pot with AA, and voila!

Looks stock doesn't it :D
(snip)

But it's not :naughty:
(snip)

Here's the custom module
(snip)

I potted the bottom of the driver, the brass ring is pressed in, and provides a better negative connection to the driver board. No matter what i did, I couldn't get that darn positive contact centered though :(
(snip)

Here's what it looks like apart.
(snip)

Hmmm... I should really pot the led too :sssh:
(snip)

Here's a couple of beamshots. I couldn't figure out how to remove the halo though :thinking:
(snip)


Nice project dude, and good job with the beamshots :twothumbs
 
General Question

For a device such as this, would one generally go without a reflector, and just "sacrifice" the light that strikes the inside of the head but not the lens? Or, are the optics some sort of matched reflector/lens combo that gets most of the generated light out the front?

If the former, then I suppose it might be correct to say that a typical lenser light may have a more intense hotspot, but total lumens are less.
 
IIRC, somewhere in shipping it got messed up. It's not all that uncommon with Nitecore boards.

What I'd really like to make is something like Dereelight's "no hot spot" light. You loose output compared to some designs, but a nice bright, even light can be incredibly useful.
 
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