Class Project

[lil_mac]

Hello fellow dive buddies,

Can I have some help please? I have about 6 dive buddies who would like a better light. I would like to put together a small class at our local dive shop and build some. We could all learn and have a finished product to dive with.

I myself do not know too much about building dive lights. I was wondering if we could make a list of needed parts that would make a good class project.

Only guidelines:

Canister light (Delrin or HDPE)
500 minimum lumens (maybe 3 XRE's)
as cheap as possible (no profit to be made, just helping out my buddies)


My plan is to draw up a design for the canister and light head and have a local shop do the machining. It would be best if all the parts could be assembled easily. Not looking for anything fancy, just practical.

What do you think? Thoughts? Parts lists?

Thanks,
Lil_Mac

 

[lil_mac]

 

[Packhorse]

For simplicity its hard to beat using a Mag lite head. No special tools required and cheap.

 

[350xfire]

The latches in your drawing need to be turned 180 degrees so the don't interfere with the belt mounting strap. I can custom turn canisters for you guys if you want me to. I can also do light heads.

I build my entry-level P7 LED system for $465 turn key tested shipped and PayPal. This will include an anodized light head. Up until recently I was powder coating. If you are looking for parts to put together, I can save you a bit, but in my opinion not worth the risk of not testing them. The problem with the canister lights is that there is a lot of machining that has to be done and the time it takes to do that is quite a bit. A machine shop will probably charge about $75-120 per hour and doing just a few lights will probably cost you a bunch of money.

I do my stuff as a hobby out of my garage so I can do this quite a bit cheaper than a shop with overhead.

Anyway, PM me if you are interested or emaim s.hortiz@sbc global.net. Here is some of my work: http://www.cavediver.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11611

 

[350xfire]

Oh, here is a parts list:
Canister
Foot Delrin- good for lid and can
Switch
Boot
Gland
Battery
Charger
Cable
Connectors
Webbing
Clamps
Latches

Light head
Aluminum
Lens
O-rings
Light
Heat sink compound
Gland

Sounds pretty straight forward, but you can't build a custom delrin/aluminum can light for less than about $250.. That is unless you are getting the materials for really cheap or free. Delrin= abut $20 per foot and so is aluminum.

And yes, Maglite is simplest... A $15 Maglite will save you a few hours of lathe time to make a custom head. My heads go for $150+ for custom aluminum. My canisters also start at $150. If you want an ugly cheap canister, PVC pipe works great...

I know Pack and I have made our fair share of those!!! They work, but nothing fancy.

 

[Packhorse]

IMHO you are probably best to buy a pre fabricated cannister. Especially at the price 350 sells them for.
But I would recommend you try building your own light head from a Mag. After all its a project so you need to do some of the work aye.

 

[350xfire]

Oh and that would be turned 90 degrees not 180... 180 will put you where you are right now!!! lol

 

[Packhorse]

My heads go for $150+ for custom aluminum. My canisters also start at $150. If you want an ugly cheap canister, PVC pipe works great...

I would rephrase that to
If you want a cheap cannister and are not to concerned with looks then PVC pipe can work great.

I made a great cannister out of some PVC pipe and 2 end caps. Since I was using Li Ion cells and they dont off gas ( AFAIK) I made it a totally seal design. It worked great and looked pretty good too. ( well it looked OK but would have looked better painted black with PVC paint).


I also still use my original ( well MK3) PVC cannister that is just a little ugly. But its very functional and I will probably not replace it with one of my newer cans until the batteries die which may be a long time since they are well looked after quality NiCds.

I should also point out my new cans are still PVC pipe( except the POM ones) but do require the use of a lathe.

 

[lil_mac]

Thanks for the help guys! I have been reading your stuff for awhile now and really appreciate the help.

You have me thinking now. I didn't realize the cost to make your own was so high. I might take you up on the machining of cans and/or head 350xfire. My current can is PVC, but would like a solid piece. What about HDPE? Seems strong enough and cheap enough to me.

Your right Packhorse, I think there is some interest in DIY from our group. We don't need to do it all but a little is fun and educational.

 

[lil_mac]

http://www.mcmaster.com/#5243t31/=589niz for HDPE Rod

 

[350xfire]

http://www.mcmaster.com/#5243t31/=589niz for HDPE Rod

I don't think HDPE will have the strength to hold screws for latches... Delrin is REALLY tough stuff... Oh and BTW, I only pay about $5.00 per foot for Delrin.

I am working with a CNC shop to run a set of 20 cans and light heads. So, these will be a nice consistent product. Latches will be perfectly straight and all...

And Pack.... yes, your cans are beautiful!!! lol! I did not mean to hit that nerve. Let me know when you are ready for some beautiful Delrin...

 

[Packhorse]

And Pack.... yes, your cans are beautiful!!! lol! I did not mean to hit that nerve. Let me know when you are ready for some beautiful Delrin...

I already have access to delrin cans from a local CNCer. And I can get it my self for one off projects like P valves and rebreather parts.
But I pay a lot more than $5 a foot.
I think its more like $60nz for enough for a can. Which is one reason I use PVC. The other is that the PVC is available in tube and I dont/didnt have a boring bar long enough to bore out a delrin can.

What is included in your $150 cannisters? Are they complete or require latches, switches and glands etc?

 

[350xfire]

I already have access to delrin cans from a local CNCer. And I can get it my self for one off projects like P valves and rebreather parts.
But I pay a lot more than $5 a foot.
I think its more like $60nz for enough for a can. Which is one reason I use PVC. The other is that the PVC is available in tube and I dont/didnt have a boring bar long enough to bore out a delrin can.

What is included in your $150 cannisters? Are they complete or require latches, switches and glands etc?

Complete... Add batteries and light head and you are done. Webbing and clamps included as well. Of course, this will not last forever, but for now that's it. This is for 1.97" ID by 2.45" OD by 6.5" deep.
BTW, I meant Delrin is $5 more than HDPE... My price for 2.5" Delrin is about $20 USD.

 

[Packhorse]

That really is a good price. Can you do them with no switch hole and switch?
How about radial and axial O rings on the lid?

 

[350xfire]

That really is a good price. Can you do them with no switch hole and switch?
How about radial and axial O rings on the lid?

Yes, can do with no switch or hole. Save $5.
By radial/axial you mean an 0-ring inside the bore and one on the lid's recess? I have used 1 o-ring on the lid's recess and tested to 265' for 8 hours and no leaks. Any reason for the extra?

 

[Packhorse]

Redundancy. If you dont latch the lid down properly or a hair or sand gets on one Oring the other should still seal.
I have flooded one of my cannisters twice first time was due to not enough tension on the latches and it opened when I surfaced. 2nd time was because I didnt latch it down properly. I now build mine with 2 orings. If you dont like the idea of 2 O rings then you just remove one.

 

[350xfire]

Redundancy. If you dont latch the lid down properly or a hair or sand gets on one Oring the other should still seal.
I have flooded one of my cannisters twice first time was due to not enough tension on the latches and it opened when I surfaced. 2nd time was because I didnt latch it down properly. I now build mine with 2 orings. If you dont like the idea of 2 O rings then you just remove one.

I'm open to any design ideas... I also like the 2 o-ring idea. It's just not your "standard".. This would give me a marketing "edge".
Can you give me a crude drwaing or pic of how you do it?
Thanks

BTW, check out my CNC light head post...

 

[brysonjk]

I am building a dive light as well out of a Maglite D cell light. I was wondering if there was anything special about sealing the head of the light for diving. I have purchased replacement maglite glass (law enforcent type) that is about 2.3mm thick. I have cut down the light, epoxy'd it into the head, but now I am working from the other side. Please help, and tell me what to do at this point. If someone happens to have pics that would be great.

Thanks

 

[Packhorse]

Just put thicker O rings in the tail cap and infront of the lens and around the bezel and it will be fine.

You could epoxy the tail cap on too. I usual pot the whole tail cap once the gland is in but before the cable goes in.

 

[wquiles]

Just put thicker O rings in the tail cap and infront of the lens and around the bezel and it will be fine.

You could epoxy the tail cap on too. I usual pot the whole tail cap once the gland is in but before the cable goes in.

I will like to try it one of these days. What specific size do you recommend for the tailcap, around bezel, and in-front-of-lens o-rings (I assume 70 DURO right)?

Will