I just recieved my new Fenix TK-11 in the mail the other day and am not really that happy with the quality of the light. I am not THAT into flashlights (my wife would beg to differ), but I do have a drawer full of cheapies I pick up on sale here and there. The Fenix seems good until I dropped it on the carpet in my house. The light came on and the on/off switch didn't work for 3 or 4 times. It finally started working, but if I hit the side of the flash light on my palm, the light flickers and then the on of swith doesn't work again. Also, if I push just a little bit sideways on the button it will come on. I've never had a problem like this with any of the cheap tacticals in my arsenal. Is this normal? Wouldn't be very good if you were actually in a "tactical" situation and didn't want the light on but accidentally bumped it the wrong way.
Dissapointed in Fenix TK-11
- Thread starter riverrat1
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lolzertank
Enlightened
A. You might have destroyed the switch.
B. The TK11 has a forward clicky which will light if you press the switch lightly. This allows momentary operation. Pressing it all the way makes it constant-on and unlike reverse clickies, it will not turn off unless you press it down all the way again. If all your other lights are cheapies, this is probably new to you.
B. The TK11 has a forward clicky which will light if you press the switch lightly. This allows momentary operation. Pressing it all the way makes it constant-on and unlike reverse clickies, it will not turn off unless you press it down all the way again. If all your other lights are cheapies, this is probably new to you.
The light should not be flickering, contact the people you bought it from and have it exchanged or repaired. My TK-11 has been a go to light for me since I bought it. Solid and very reliable with no flicker.
Make sure your tail cap is tight and the head is screwed down far enough to make solid contact with the battery. Make sure the head is all the way down just prior being able to twist it to go max light. If it is still flicking go with the warranty. Good luck.
Make sure your tail cap is tight and the head is screwed down far enough to make solid contact with the battery. Make sure the head is all the way down just prior being able to twist it to go max light. If it is still flicking go with the warranty. Good luck.
Henk_Lu
Flashlight Enthusiast
Definetely broken, but it schouldn't break falling on a carpet. However, the switch is the most fragile part on a light and if it lands unlucky...
You always can see with the dealer if there is some warranty on such incidents, if not, you can simply order a new switch.
I would get the switch out and have a look at it. That's normal operation, you only need either a special tool or just two pens (or something else...) to unscrew the alumninium ring around the spring in the tailcap. It is also that one that you should control if it sits tight, if it doesn't, the light may flicker, I had it with my Olight M20.
Good luck! :thumbsup:
You always can see with the dealer if there is some warranty on such incidents, if not, you can simply order a new switch.
I would get the switch out and have a look at it. That's normal operation, you only need either a special tool or just two pens (or something else...) to unscrew the alumninium ring around the spring in the tailcap. It is also that one that you should control if it sits tight, if it doesn't, the light may flicker, I had it with my Olight M20.
Good luck! :thumbsup:
If the TK11 can't withstand a 2 foot drop onto heavily padded carpet, I guess I broke it. I have a couple of forward clickies, and none of them do this. I took the switch apart and if I push the switch sideways I get continuity, which shouldn't happen. Guess I've just got a case of the ole bad luck. I would think Fenix would fix it under warranty, but I don't want to ship it back and not have my new light for a few weeks, so I guess I'll just order a new switch since they're only $5 or so. Seems like a fairly common defect of the TK line of switches. Oh well.
DimeRazorback
Flashlight Enthusiast
Might be a bad case of QC... Ive dropped mine before with no issues.
Before sending it back, try removing the head and cleaning the contact area there, then make sure it's tightened up when you put it back on. My TK10 was a bit iffy 'till I cleaned it. However, if it's the same in both high and low modes this isn't the problem. I'd also make sure the switch mechanism is tightened up inside the tailcap, it tightens via the 2 holes in the retaining ring. Also make sure the tailcap is fully tightened, as loosening it locks out the batteries, so if it's just slightly loose it may be temperamental.
alexdiver
Newly Enlightened
if you have the tactical ring make sure it is screwed in completely because sometimes it prevents you from screwing down the tailcap all the way down and cause erratic behavior
pseudoblue
Newly Enlightened
I feel your disappointment and frustration.. having to wait for weeks for a light and then this thing happened when the light were suppose to take alot of beating... :sigh:
If you have a Digital Multimeter, you can first test if the light is working without the tailcap switch. Let the light lie down slightly on some support, so you can see the beams when poking your probe pins. Switch in between general and high modes, observe if there are any flicker, or instability of the light. But do take note that your light will flicker if your probe pins are moving about and touching intermitently. Check out this website here from a CPF member that helped me on how to use a DMM to 'test' the light. http://www.lygte-info.dk/info/Measurement UK.html
In the link you can also find out how to do a continuity test on your switch by measuring its resistance. That way you can narrow down your problem even more. If there's continuity, perhaps it's not a exactly a switch problem, part of the tailcap might have bent, disorientated the ring inside which might have caused an intermittent connection, and when you push the tailcap, hence you get a continuity output. Use a tweezer or forceps to loosen the ring inside the tailcap. Loosening the ring should be somewhat smooth. Just inspect for possibilities.
Also, you might want to inspect the batteries if they are damage, check the battery voltage and try with different batteries, preferably fresh ones.
All the best and :welcome:
If you have a Digital Multimeter, you can first test if the light is working without the tailcap switch. Let the light lie down slightly on some support, so you can see the beams when poking your probe pins. Switch in between general and high modes, observe if there are any flicker, or instability of the light. But do take note that your light will flicker if your probe pins are moving about and touching intermitently. Check out this website here from a CPF member that helped me on how to use a DMM to 'test' the light. http://www.lygte-info.dk/info/Measurement UK.html
In the link you can also find out how to do a continuity test on your switch by measuring its resistance. That way you can narrow down your problem even more. If there's continuity, perhaps it's not a exactly a switch problem, part of the tailcap might have bent, disorientated the ring inside which might have caused an intermittent connection, and when you push the tailcap, hence you get a continuity output. Use a tweezer or forceps to loosen the ring inside the tailcap. Loosening the ring should be somewhat smooth. Just inspect for possibilities.
Also, you might want to inspect the batteries if they are damage, check the battery voltage and try with different batteries, preferably fresh ones.
All the best and :welcome:
kramer5150
Flashaholic
Definitely contact the AD you bought it from and ask about a warranty exchange / RMA. I have dropped all my lights on the carpet floor and they have all survived fine.
If you are certain its the switch thats the culprit Lighthound sells replacements here... This might be a better alternative if its out of warranty or you bought it used & out of warranty.
http://www.lighthound.com/Fenix-For...E20-L-P-and-TK-series-flashlights_p_2468.html
http://www.lighthound.com/Fenix-For...ights-with-black-switch-cover-kit_p_2469.html
http://www.lighthound.com/Fenix-For...ghts-with-orange-switch-cover-kit_p_2470.html
If you are certain its the switch thats the culprit Lighthound sells replacements here... This might be a better alternative if its out of warranty or you bought it used & out of warranty.
http://www.lighthound.com/Fenix-For...E20-L-P-and-TK-series-flashlights_p_2468.html
http://www.lighthound.com/Fenix-For...ights-with-black-switch-cover-kit_p_2469.html
http://www.lighthound.com/Fenix-For...ghts-with-orange-switch-cover-kit_p_2470.html
CaNo
Flashlight Enthusiast
Just out of curiosity... who did you buy your light from?
ateallthepies
Enlightened
I can't believe a torch billed as TK= tank, can break from being dropped onto carpet
I have read destruction threads here for other Fenix lights being dragged behind trucks, run over, dropped onto concrete, boiled, frozen in ice etc.. and still working
Feel bad for ya bud, but you may have gotten a Friday afternoon made torch
Send it back unless you feel confident you can fix it.
Steve.
I have read destruction threads here for other Fenix lights being dragged behind trucks, run over, dropped onto concrete, boiled, frozen in ice etc.. and still working
Feel bad for ya bud, but you may have gotten a Friday afternoon made torch
Send it back unless you feel confident you can fix it.
Steve.
It's not a Surefire.
Henk_Lu
Flashlight Enthusiast
Hm, ist that a sort of a test for all your lights? Shall I do that with mine too now? How thick has the carpet to be? :huh:
Outdoors Fanatic
Flashlight Enthusiast
DM51
Flashaholic
Members are advised/warned that if this thread develops into a Surefire vs. Fenix bashing contest, it will not survive.
Henk_Lu
Flashlight Enthusiast
Have a look at this thread :
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=239843
Where is the carpet???
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=239843
Where is the carpet???
I had a Fenix T1 switch fail due to bad luck in a very similiar way. I disassembled the switch unit and found a pin had broken off inside.
As my light was in warranty, Fenix-store were happy to send me a new switch without me even sending them the old one back. Email your seller and explain the situation - due to the low price of the switch they may not expect you to send the light back as return postage would make it unworthy vs them just sending you a new switch module.
Edit: I should also say other than that I have found the 'T'ank series lights very reliable and robust.
msloshooter
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2008
- Messages
- 46
I have a couple of questions regarding your light. Did you use CR123 batteries or an 18650 rechargable? If you used CR123s, did you use a good brand such as Duracell or Surefire? I have a TK 11 and several of my friends have them (including mounted on AR15 rifles) and they all work fine. However, some of them did not like cheaper CR123 batteries. My department only buys cheap batteries and the guys that used them had the problems. The guys that used good batteries had no problems. Everybody who was using the cheap batteries switched to Surefires and all of the problems disappeared.
By the way, the problems encountered with the cheap batteries were very similar to what you describe. I believe it is because of the extra room in the battery compartment to allow the use of 18650 cells. The cheaper batteries seem to rattle around more and can loose contact.
Just my two cents.
By the way, the problems encountered with the cheap batteries were very similar to what you describe. I believe it is because of the extra room in the battery compartment to allow the use of 18650 cells. The cheaper batteries seem to rattle around more and can loose contact.
Just my two cents.
