Esthan's Fenix T1 Abuse - with Pics.

[Esthan]

Thanks to David Chow form Fenix-Store.com I'm having the pleasure of showing You
the results of my abuse of a long avaited Fenix: the T1.

Before started to have fun with T1, it looked as follows:

Day 1: Waterproofness test.
Since I lack the time to play around with flashlights during the week, I've
decided to alter my former methods and I've put the T1 in a bottle filled
with water, on the same day it came to me. It stayed there for 24h and
after the test T1 was dry inside with no signs of any moist. As expected
after seeing the o-rings, it performed flawlessly.

Day 2 to 5: Cold resistance test
Compared to P3D abuse, T1 went to the freezer without batteries (LED
creates heat that prevents T1 from freezing completly). T1 got frozen in
a cut down PET plastic bottle (only thing that could fit in my freezer)

Today in the morning, I've taken the T1 from the freezer and it looked
like that:

To show You, that T1 has been imprisoned in ice, and that it worked well
just after the prison break, I've allowed myself to make a short movie that
can be seen here: http://youtube.com/watch?v=jNyXf4154yM

Day 5: Durability test

Please allow me to quote T1's ad: Solid as TANK. If they say so, we need to
prove it. I've started quite simple:

20 drops on concrete floor - from 1m height on the head.
T1 just after the test:

As You see on the pic, SS bezel shows some wear. Before anyone asks about
the wear on the body - T1 bounced on the head and landed as it wanted on
the floor. Anyway, T1 still works flawlessly. Next step was:

20 drops on concrete floor - from 1 m height on the switch.
Unfortunately, after the sixth fall the switch said good bye and went crazy.
What do I mean by crazy: it either clicked or not, it either reacted to clicking
or not, it either reacted to pushing or not. I've filmed it, and You can see the
switch behave chaotically here: http://youtube.com/watch?v=aoIUskuZtwg.

Formally, I should have finished the testing at that moment, for T1 stopped
being useful not only as a Tactical but also as a Practical product. But since
I moved my 3 letter to the airport, I decided to continue the testing. So I went
on through 14 drops from ca 1,2m height. After the test it looked like that:

20, IMO standard drops were sufficient not only to shorten the teeth on the
switch and eliminate the switches protection but also to generate a finger
unfriendly surface (able to cut skin). I do not know if those teeth are too
thin to T1's mass or the aluminum alloy is to soft - but IMO this is not a
good design and it needs improvement.

Next thing was the body test, that is:

20 drops on concrete floor - from 1m height on the body.
Nothing unusual happened here, and after the test T1 looked like that:

Since I did not expect any problems from above mentioned drops I also planned
to repeat the tests from 2m height (as in my post here.)

20 drops on concrete floor - from 2m height on the head.
Result has shocked me:

I do not know exactly when did it happen, but it happened, pic says all...

20 drops on concrete floor - from 2m height on the switch.
I did that one out of curiosity, just to check how will it dull the teeth and see
if anything unusual happens - for the switch was no more protected from the
impact by the teeth. Well, teeth got shorter and switch did not repair itself.
Below is the pic taken just after the test:

20 drops on concrete floor - from 2m height on the body.
Aside of the fact that all of the glass remains were shaken away from the
head nothing worth mentioning happened. Below is a pic of the T1 just
after the drops:

Conclusions:
- First of all, I've decided to skip the drag test, it wouldnt bring much since T1 was already unoperable.
- I do not know whether it happened before the glass break or after it, but low mode went
and remained inaccesible. (It shows itself for a split of a second and T1 goes off.) -
/Edit: It seems to be accessible now.
- T1 is not solid as tank! It is not even as solid as it's sister the P3D
Proof for that is here.

 

[jsr]

Great info Esthan. While I'm one (of the few) who do not think the T1 is really any more durable than similar lights with less weight (weight and bulk don't necessarily protect the insides), I'm not sure it's fair to compare the T1's abuse to the P3D's abuse. It doesn't look like the P3D was put thru the drop tests that the T1 was. While the P3D was dragged thru various roads, water, dirt, and mud, it wasn't dropped which incurs a much higher degree of stress and shock to the body and internals. I would be interested to see how the P3D holds up to identical testing conditions as the T1. In fact, I'd be interested to see any other light performed with identical tests to the T1. The lighter weight of the other lights may improve results, but w/o comparative testing, we only know what the T1 can handle and not how tough it is relative to other lights.
Thanks for the great testing info and I hope you continue to provide us with such great info on other lights.

 

[Mercaptan]

How can you truly compare the two when you dragged one through the mud and dropped another from 2 meters? Dragging a light won't likely break anything, but dropping on another hand... different scenario.

 

[Esthan]

How can you truly compare the two when you dragged one through the mud and dropped another from 2 meters? Dragging a light won't likely break anything, but dropping on another hand... different scenario.

A quote from my P3D Abuse:
"In this test, P3D has taken at least 10 landings on concrete alike ground from 2 to 3m height - and it continued to work."

It also took some flights on stony and muddy ground.

Since P3D is not advertised as solid as tank, and it survived a fair share of beating (drops). I personally think
it more tough than T1 - for T1 should be able to take a lot of punishment - but after a 6'th !! drop it went
inoperable.

I still have the P3D at home, so I'm going to give it 20 drops on the head and switch later form 1 and 2m height.

 

[PhantomPhoton]

Interesting report. I was surprised to see the window break so soon. Not surprised that the switch is the weakest link. Those little pointy teeth on the tailcap definitely need to be tougher. Perhaps Fenix should make the tailcap out of steel and not make it so pointy.
So a question I have is, even though the switch is completely useless on the T1, if you short the negative end of the battery to the body of the light, will the T1 still light up by bypassing the switch?

 

[jur]

I too was disappointed by the complete lack of consistency between tests of different models. As an electronic engineer who has to subject designs to a whole battery of tests, I know that it is really impossible to make something completely foolproof/breakproof. Any device given enough punishment will break - it's actually the most fundamental law of nature. So all you have really succeeded in doing is confirming that law.

I expect Fenix subjected their light to the standard industry tests to confirm its toughness.

I also wonder about your drop tests. While industry standard drop tests are done, these are typically performed from 1.2m height to simulate a person dropping the device. Tests are limited to IIRC 5 drops in each orientation. That's what's reasonably expected in a device's lifetime (unless you are a complete klutz who drops his device every time it's used).

Then your freezing test - what on earth is it for? The instance when a device gets frozen solid in a block of ice must be rare indeed. Far better to simply stick it in a freezer, record the temperature and test full functionality under low temp. Then stick it in an oven at say 60degC, do same. Subject it to thermal stress by putting in oven straight from freezer repeatedly and test full functionality each time. Don't include the battery in those tests since you are not testing that.

 

[Esthan]

Jur,
If You are so good and have as much knowledge as You claim, start doing
such abuse test. I'll be more than glad to read few of those. All You see
here are results! Those are easy do discuss but not as easy to foresee or
plan.

As for complete lack of consistency between the test - read the post nr. 9
Besides, you do not pay for those test, in fact no one does (aside of the
Dealers who are kind enough to lend me one of their puppies)- it's done
from my free time - and I do not have much of it. So be more careful what
You say.

As for freeze test, I never said that has any big purpose.

PhantomPhoton:
Shorting the negative batt terminal to the body works. T1 gets switched on.
Teeth are a way to weak - a protection, such as the one in P3D would be a
much better solution. Glass "touches" * the SS bezel - a shock absorber like an
o-ring could offer some protection for the glass - but that is just a theory.

Since many here and on the Polish forum were disappointed about the "lack"
of consistency, I woke up early and repeated the test with P3D. Results:
- 20 drops from 1m on the switch - no effect
- 20 drops from 1m on the head - no effect
- 20 drops from 1m on the body - no effect

further tests:
- 20 drops from 2m on the switch - no effect
- 20 drops from 2m on the head combined with 10 drops from 2m on the body:
P3D stopped working.

Glass is OK, switch works fine (checked with my multimeter), Rebel LED is ok -
Autopsy - something must have gone wrong in the electronics.. Not sure, I
have no access to it (do not know how to disassemble the the head further
after removing the part with the reflector).

P3D is by far more durable than T1.

P3D after drop testing (same as T1):

Damage comparison between T1&P3D (head and switch)

*Upon disassembling the SS bezel I've found a small plastic ring that with very
high probability has been placed between the glass and SS bezel. Thats a good
idea :]

 

[Mash]

Thanks for the tests and the writeups! You are the one out there putting your time to do it, so credit where its due.
Perhaps other CPFers can suggest other tests, and we can come up with a standard test methodology for the future; this I think is more useful than discussions after the tests are done.

 

[Esthan]

Since drag test, in it's current form is weather dependent, I needed to change
the route. That is why I went to the Airport - for it offers nearly the same
conditions and less people are using it by that time. (Other route needs ca.
an hour to get there - the hour I have not had yesterday).

As for drop test, the results have surprised me, for honestly said I've not
expected it to do as much damage as it did - I thought it to be a warm up
before dragging T1 on the ground. Since I've been doing the drop tests "in
the meantime" while dragging a torch on the ground, I have not counted the
drops as exact as I should. So this was supposed to be a new repeatable
and weather independent test - You can see the results yourself.

T1 is marketed as solid as tank, so one expects it to perform better than
other flashlights - that is why I got really disappointed when the switch
said goodbye after a 6'th drop from the pocket height*, for it's not a
tank alike performance. T1 got IMO useless at that point and there was
no need to drag it on the ground - it would not prove anything. Hence
the opportunistic decision to gain as much data from the drop test as
possible aka 60 drops from 2m height - and the data got gathered.

One thing remains certain, with each test I'm gaining more knowledge that
can be used to improve the next test, but I do get caught up by sruprise,
so please show some understanding.

* be warned - I've checked it first after the 6'th drop! for T1 started turning
itself on in the moment of contact with the ground - clear sign that the teeth
didn't protect it anymore.


IMPORTANT NOTE TO ANYONE WHO PLANS TO DROP T1 OR OTHER TORCHES
FROM VARIOUS HEIGHTS:
BATTS GET DAMAGED THIS CAN BE DANGEROUS TO THE TESTER.

SF123 on the left has taken part in this drop test:

 

[wild68fury]

Great testing. I became a flashaholic when I read that an Inova flashlight survived fall down an elevator shaft 40 stories. I am not sure if the story is true or not, but I bought one and it is still working. I bought a Fenix P3D RB100 and while it is not as durable, it outshines and runs longer than my Inova. Keep up the great volunteer work. If you do not have any plans for the T1, send me a PM (I think David wants them back). I would like to try to get it working again.

 

[4sevens]

Great testing. I became a flashaholic when I read that an Inova flashlight survived fall down an elevator shaft 40 stories. I am not sure if the story is true or not, but I bought one and it is still working. I bought a Fenix P3D RB100 and while it is not as durable, it outshines and runs longer than my Inova. Keep up the great volunteer work. If you do not have any plans for the T1, send me a PM (I think David wants them back). I would like to try to get it working again.

I've never heard about the 40 story drop, but
more than two years ago, the Fenix L1P (first model made) was accidentally
dropped 17 stories and still worked
(http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96573&highlight=elevator)

Esthan, thanks for all your testing. If you ever open up the T1, you'll see the lens
is pretty well protected in the stainless bezel and is slightly isolated from the aluminum
body. Aluminum is actually quite soft compared to the stainless steel. There are
two scenarios I can think of that will break the lens.
1) If the light lands just right such that an object such as a rock hits the lens beyond
the depth of the ss bezel. The bezel is quite deep and will guard against flat surfaces
but if something angular reaches beyond the bezel and into the lens, then it could break
the lens.
2) When the stainless bezel begins to deform or when the impact is great enough to
flex the stainless bezel, the lens will be suseptable to damage.

Other things to consider... Stainless is very very hard. And the characteristics of
the impact surface will greatly determine the shock that goes through the light.
The harder the surface the greater the deceleration that takes place.
Thats just some thoughts from me

Of course all this abuse data will go towards the design of the next version of the T1
as well as other lights in the T series. Don't ask when what where because I don't have any info

 

[Esthan]

I can PM few improvement ideas :]
One thing that I noticed after removing the bezel is a small
plastic ring that is probably inserted between the bezel and
glass.

Nevertheless, Thank You for the Light 4Sevens

 

[dinocol]

Esthan, maybe you could also add ur new drop test result of the P3D to your P3D Abuse Thread..

as for the T1, I think it should have a some sort of replaceable rubber bezel / shock absorbers on the head, body and tailcap to absorb the drops since its way too heavy...

 

[woodrow]

Esthan,
Thanks for your hard work and doing the test. I have the T1, and think it is a very tough light. I noticed that yours did not take nearly as much abuse as the other testers. I think it brings up a good point and kind of glad it happened that way.

The point is, even tough things can fail from minor abuse...if everything goes wrong...hits a certian way etc. Perhaps if your light landed 1 degree differently, it would still be working, but it the perfect way for a failure to occour, and it did. A good reason to carry a backup, no matter what light you carry.

Thanks again for your review.

 

[WadeF]

It seems the forward clicky switches are more prone to damage, as we've seen SF owners mention their SF clickies break from a SINGLE fall where the light falls on the tail switch. I'm not surprised the T1's switch also failed from being dropped on it, especially as much as the T1 weighs. A heavier light will generate more force when it hits the ground. That's why the P3D does so well in the drop tests, it's very light. If you think the P3D being dropped from 2 meters puts the same force on it's switch, or parts, as the T1 does when being dropped from the same height, you better think again. That T1 is going to hit like a brick and any parts that absorb a majority of that impact are going to take a real beating.

Fenix should look into ways to improve the impact resistence of the switch, and maybe the glass. Thicker glass with maybe double o-rings, like Esthan suggested, might help.

Does the T1 naturally want to fall on it's tail switch, or does it naturally try to fall on the bezel?

 

[greenLED]

Does the T1 naturally want to fall on it's tail switch, or does it naturally try to fall on the bezel?

During part of my testing, I noticed it fell on the bezel most often. I was pushing the light (which was bezel down on a shelf) onto a concrete floor from waist-height.

 

[jzmtl]

T1's aluminum is a bit on the soft side from my experience. I dropped it onto tile from maybe 3 feet, while inside the holster. One of the tail teeth landed first, even with holster cusioning it still dented and anodizing is falling off.

I think they use 6061 which isn't hard to begin with.

 

[Bonky]

I must admit I'm amazed that the 'tail teeth' get pounded down to nothing after a couple dozen drops.

 

[Esthan]

I'm not surprised the T1's switch also failed from being dropped on it, especially as much as the T1 weighs. A heavier light will generate more force when it hits the ground. That's why the P3D does so well in the drop tests, it's very light. If you think the P3D being dropped from 2 meters puts the same force on it's switch, or parts, as the T1 does when being dropped from the same height, you better think again. That T1 is going to hit like a brick and any parts that absorb a majority of that impact are going to take a real beating.

Fenix should look into ways to improve the impact resistence of the switch, and maybe the glass. Thicker glass with maybe double o-rings, like Esthan suggested, might help.

Does the T1 naturally want to fall on it's tail switch, or does it naturally try to fall on the bezel?

WadeF:
You are seeing the whole situation wrong. If You remove the switch
protection from both lights - first or second drop on the switch will "kill"
it instantly because both torches are heavy enough to do that.

So it's all about the switch protection - P3D switch is protected by a round
tube and T1 switch is protected by teeth. Both switches protrude a bit from
the protection - but this should be no problem - in P3D upon drop, the switch
is pressed a bit (spring takes all of the shock) and than the tube protection
kicks in - taking the whole force to itself.
In an undamaged T1 - switch is also protected - but as soon as the teeth
get shorter, upon landing internal parts of the switch take more shock than
those are designed to take (spring is pressed to a maximal point and shock
goes to plastic internal parts - hence it's malfunction). Comparison Pic here:

As You see from the tests P3D switch protection is better - and that is the
point - for a tube is much more resistant than pointy teeth. If T1 switch
had the same protection (for example like the switch in WolfEyes Raider) it
would not get damaged as quickly as it did. Ok, it will not be as looking as
"cool" but IMO it's not what it's about in a Torch. I've once punched my
leg with Raider - and It hurt like hell - no teeth are needed to create pain :]


As for the glass - it's quite big and IMO good protected - those drops from
2m on concrete, although they seem harmless, generate a lot of shock.
Maybe a better glass (annealed - if that is the proper term in English) or
plastic lens could do better.

How will T1 land ? It depends on the starting position.

 

[BGater]

Im looking at the damaged battery from the T1 and wondering if that was part of the reason it failed to light up on the 6th drop. Did you try a fresh battery at that point ?

This is a heck of a test for a light, if one passes all this its prooved it metal for sure ! Nice work. Im supprised the P3D took as much as it did, I love my L1/L2D's......but they feel a bit fragile. I have dropped my L1D down 13 concrete stairs going to my basement by accident. I was using the light on low when I dropped it and it was still on low working fine when it stopped at the bottom.