Fenix L1D died...replace or upgrade?

[Daravon]

I don't keep up with flashlight technology, but I've been EDC'ing a Fenix L1D for years. I bored the body out on a lathe so that it takes either a CR123 or AA battery. So on a CR123 it's as bright as a L2D, but as small as a L1D, and I can still use AA if I need to.

Well it finally quit working after I dropped it the other day. I guess I could buy another L1D, if they even make them, and put my old beat-up body on the new one and then still keep my CR123/AA modification. Do the new ones have any better LED dice?

Or, maybe there's another similar light available that I should look at and take this as an opportunity to switch lights. I can spend up to $100, and I need a light that's for sure no bigger than the L1D. I suppose either CR123 or AA is acceptable, as long as it's at least as bright as my L1D on CR123. And I don't need fancy modes other than a high high and a reasonably low 'low' mode. I mostly use it for working on stuff and as a bedside light, so 'throw' isn't terribly important.

 

[entoptics]

Check out the Fenix LD10 R4 that's recently come along. Essentially it's the "new" L1D. Uber bright, but doesn't have a low-low mode (9 lumens is the lowest, so minimag bright).

Another option for someone prone to modding like yourself might be the 4Sevens Quark series. The Quark AA appears to be smaller than the L1D or LD10, it has a VERY low low mode, and the 0.9 - 4.2 volt head can be legoed onto other Quark bodies for billions of battery options at ~$20 a pop. Even an 18650 option.

A Quark AA runs about $50 shipped if you find the right CPF discount, so for just over $100 you could have a Quark AA, AA2, and 123, or an AA, AA2, and Turbo head, or...

You get the idea.

 

[TwitchALot]

I don't keep up with flashlight technology, but I've been EDC'ing a Fenix L1D for years. I bored the body out on a lathe so that it takes either a CR123 or AA battery. So on a CR123 it's as bright as a L2D, but as small as a L1D, and I can still use AA if I need to.

Well it finally quit working after I dropped it the other day. I guess I could buy another L1D, if they even make them, and put my old beat-up body on the new one and then still keep my CR123/AA modification. Do the new ones have any better LED dice?

Or, maybe there's another similar light available that I should look at and take this as an opportunity to switch lights. I can spend up to $100, and I need a light that's for sure no bigger than the L1D. I suppose either CR123 or AA is acceptable, as long as it's at least as bright as my L1D on CR123. And I don't need fancy modes other than a high high and a reasonably low 'low' mode. I mostly use it for working on stuff and as a bedside light, so 'throw' isn't terribly important.

A drop shouldn't kill a Fenix. Check your tailcap retaining ring and ensure it's tightened, and make sure that no lube has migrated up the threads and disrupted the electrical contacts.

 

[gunga]

If it's trult dead, I need a beater body...

Or if you like I have a beater head!

I would personally get a Nitecore D10 or A Quark AA. A Quark AA would be a seamless transition from the L1D...

 

[pae77]

I recently upgraded myself from a Fenix L1D to a Zebralight SC50w for my EDC single AA light. It's one of the smallest single AA lights with a click switch, if not the smallest. I think it blows my old L1D away in every respect, (e.g., build quality, annodization, UI, brightness, beam quality, tint, efficiency, heatsinking, etc.). It's optimized for both NiMH as well as Li-Ion 14500s. The cool white version (SC50) puts out 199 lumens OTF on high (SC50w neutral white version puts out max of 169 lumens) on a 14500 cell. Plus it is a side clicky with an electronic switch which is kind of cool, imo. You might want to do a little reading about that one as well as the others that have been mentioned.

 

[MichaelW]

How did you use a cr123 where an AA used to go?
The cr123 is much shorter.

Fenix had common threads, so you can use a P2D body with L1D head.

 

[CaNo]

Time to upgrade!

Try a Quark AA. Almost same features and same battery (AA) or (14500), but just a better and cleaner beam. Also a better throw as well. If you get the R2 version from 4Sevens, I believe they will include the Prism kit as well, for free.

 

[Daravon]

The cr123 is much shorter.

I machined a short aluminum spacer.

 

[red02]

I'm pretty sure that the LD heads will fit an L1D body. I remember reading a thread about it sometime ago. As I cannot be certain, you should do a quick search to make sure.

 

[carrot]

I'm pretty sure that the LD heads will fit an L1D body. I remember reading a thread about it sometime ago. As I cannot be certain, you should do a quick search to make sure.

As I recall, somewhere along the line Fenix changed the threading for the LD series.

They also changed it from their original (with the L*P) when they made the L*D series.

 

[red02]

Can't find the thread in question atm...

here are a few that suggest that they are cross compatible, if I read them correctly (pretty late here).
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=221732
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=213965
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=2785833&postcount=4

I think its a safe bet that all those refer to the XRE versions. Either way contact your dealer and ask him to confirm.

You can also get a 2xcr123 body and use 1xAA with 15mm spacer. Provided the head is 1xcr123 or AA based.

 

[brainy1000]

A drop shouldn't kill a Fenix. Check your tailcap retaining ring and ensure it's tightened, and make sure that no lube has migrated up the threads and disrupted the electrical contacts.

I do agree. This can be a malfunction, maybe easily repaired.

 

[Illumigirl]

I say Quark or LD01. Those are both really good! And you can easily find them for no tax, no shipping- even better!