Flashlights & security officers

[jusval]

I'm just saying that you should be aware of the fact that your company and boss don't give a f**k about you.

I am 53, I know no one gives a f**k about me. I've lived long enough to learn that. I spent 26 years in manufacturing as a "boss". A different kind of boss, one who cared and one who stepped on the toes of my bosses, to make them care even if they didn't want to. Since the stroke, I don't have that kind of pull any more.

I'm digressing again.... Apologies, it's about what kind of flashlight I'm going to get....
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Soooooo..... I have been thinking Hey I've got this Maglite, or Gaglite, or Muglite as y'all call 'em. Can I do something with it to make it worthy? Not as my main light, but as the backup light. I'm Not looking for one of those reflector melting mods, just a simpler one. I was thinking of using AA batteries to make 7.2V and using a Terralux bulb. Isn't that some kind of option? I have been looking at posts till I've gone blind, but aren't there some 3x AA in a D shell things (series) to fit in a 2D Mag?? Like 2D to 6D kind of??

Just another idea and I might as well make use of the flashlight if possible....

 

[ampdude]

I use an A2 a lot of nights. I like it because it has the long running LED's for building checks and the incan for when I need more power. It's hard to beat really. I use a couple of RCR batteries. Carry primaries for backup, never need them though.

I am looking forward to running an IMR setup when my batteries get here, however the 16340's do not really have practical runtime. I'm hoping for some 17500 & 18500's soon.

 

[bones_708]

I think a better choice may be a 3d mag with a 6v battery stick like the magcharger and streamlight uses.
http://www.batteryjunction.com/empire-streamlight-charger.html
Here is a charger and you can find cheap batteries on ebay. Radio Shack has halogen 5.5v bulbs that when used in this setup are very close to as bright as a magcharger. You can start cheap and pick up parts as you go and always revert back to a regular 3d when needed. If price is a concern I would go this route first and then get a smaller belt or pocket light later.

 

[Snow]

I don't know the details of how you got the HID lights for $25 including shipping, but there are none on ebay, at least doing a search for HID or even spotlight produces no spotlights for $25.

The Vector Twin is $21 but shipping added, so it's $30 and would work fine, but if you know where there are $25 HID's I would most surely be interested.

Sam's Club has an auction website. I found them on there and won them for about $15 each or so. I just did a search and didn't see any. You can still find them on the B/S/T section from time to time. I'd sell you mine, but I actually only have one - the other I gave to my dad.

Also, check this out:
http://cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=185859

That could be your primary light.

I just purchased a Streamlight propolymer 4xAA in the marketplace. It is the light I recommended to you earlier. PM me your address and I will have it shipped straight to you.

 

[bones_708]

Here is a 6aa to 2d adapter
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_56_73&products_id=778
unless you need 7.2v I think you will send a little less and have a easier time with the 3d. Start simple and then go more complex.

 

[jusval]

Here is a 6aa to 2d adapter
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_56_73&products_id=778
unless you need 7.2v I think you will send a little less and have a easier time with the 3d. Start simple and then go more complex.

I'm one of "those guys" always wanting to build stuff, but wanting to take stuff apart even more than building it. I really want to play with the maglite, but keep the costs down. Here's what I'm thinking.....

I found the thread from mdocod about making the battery holders and I've seen the ones you link to as well. I can build one of those myself. I have enough DC knowledge to know how to do series or parallel or even series/parallel with both the voltage jump and amperage jump. I plan to make one sereis/parallel with 7.2V / 15,600mah using Tenergy AA cells. I will use a halogen or zenon bulb to start (cheap), but I will want to use a TerraLUX TLE-6EX MiniStar5 SSC P4 U bin LED or the Malkoff Drop in Module for the 6D, in the long run, later on.

Maybe I should put that in a new thread when I do the mods? Anyhow, that's something to keep me busy for the winter. (there's winter in TX?)......

I'm still going to purchase a primary use flashlight soon and then I will play with the build. I think I have all the stuff to build one out of plastic right now. I worked in plastics for 26+ years, so I feel comfortable building one out of plastic...

 

[jusval]

Somehow I posted twice with one click of the submit button. Hmmmmmmmmmm

 

[TMedina]

The problem with the Pelican 3330 LED is that it is a poorly designed light. There's no tailcap. The polymer body simple extends to where you'd normally expect to see a tailcap, and then you find the rubber boot on the end. This means that battery changes must be done by unscrewing the head. But the LED lamp has a tendency to stay attached to the end of the body. Sometimes you have to pry it out of the body of the light, so you can change the batteries. Careful not to touch the inside of the reflector.

On my 3330, the body warped just a bit. Likely due to using it in very cold weather. I have to push the cells down into the body, and shake dead cells loose. Battery changes are a bit of a headache.

I agree - it's a terrible design, but the price is reasonable and the output is respectable. For me, it falls into the "working, non-tactical" category, along with the MiniMag LED.

I'm not knocking the OP by any means, but by now you have to realize that by and large, your initial budget estimates are going to be stretched just a tad.

Have you considered writing your flashlight purchase off as a work deduction? Disclaimer: I'm not an accountant, but it's worth a thought.

-Trevor

 

[djblank87]

There are plenty Smas Club HID's on ebay that I mentioned previously, run a search for Power on Board HID

 

[M@elstrom]

Have you considered writing your flashlight purchase off as a work deduction? Disclaimer: I'm not an accountant, but it's worth a thought.

All my flashlight purchases, upgrades & batteries are claimed against my taxable income (just like all other work related expenses)... I don't see it being any different there in the US :thumbsup:


I mean it's not like you're not ACTUALLY using it in the performance of your occupation is it?

 

[Hooked on Fenix]

One way to get a small, cheap, and bright light (which I used to use) is to get a Princeton Tec 40 flashlight and replace the bulb with a 4D Maglite Xenon bulb (50% brighter than the Krypton bulb). Run it on decent NiMH batteries. Current draw is about 1 amp for four AA batteries. Good rechargeables can get you 2-2.5 hours of runtime. The beam pattern is much more useful than that of a Mag. This is a way to get a small, bright, cheap light with no modding required. The flashlight itself is under $20.

 

[jusval]

I took a few shots at the warehouse to show what I am looking for. Hopefully it will help, maybe not... The light used is my Brinkman Spotlight. The one that goes dead in 5 minutes. I have had it about 2 years and I will buy another one. Not a Brinkman, but a Vector Twin Beam spotlight. I think it works for my long range primary light. I just want to have a wider flood for closer up.


Daytime shot of a building across the street 150 yards away.

Nighttime shot of the same building. Lit up good, works for me.

Daytime shot from 100 feet away

Nighttime shot from 100 feet away. OK, but I would like more flood.

Asile in the warehouse, OK, but again I would like more flood.

Shot at about 30 feet, definitely would like more flood.

All the shots look dark, but that's just my picture taking. The Brinkman is really bright and has worked fo me, up untill the battery started getting weak and not holding a charge.

I would like to have the Maglite set up to be used for a larger flood of light, especially close up (under 50'). I have another thread for the mod of the Maglite https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/214996
and I am reading more in the forums and online, to figure out what to do. There's really almost too many options and possibilities for a new person. It's overwhelming and it's frustrating when there's 30 or 40 recommendations instead of one or two. A newbie can't make educated decisions and I'm the kind that has to be very sure before I will make the plunge....

Thanks to all of you for your patience with me....

 

[sORe-EyEz]

any chance there's a B&M store nearby with sample lights for testing? :shrug:

 

[ampdude]

I don't know those beamshots look pretty good to me!

Try an EO-9 on a couple of 18500's.

 

[Cydonia]

Those beam shots look good to me too. Having young eyes would be the best upgrade you could get - then the 2D MagLED would be just fine like it is

The Maglite options are too numerous I agree. Kinda confuses me too and I've been around here a while. Hard to say...

 

[M@elstrom]

Hmmm... I'm curious which Brinkmann model it is? how about getting a new 12v SLA for it (sounds like yours is dying)? :thinking:


is it this ugly mutha?

 

[jusval]

Hmmm... I'm curious which Brinkmann model it is? how about getting a new SLA for it? :thinking:

Don't know which model. LED/Halogen is all it says on the body. It's not a Q beam, it's a cheaper model. Lowest of the line, but it's not in production any more even though Wal-Mart still has them on the shelf.

I took it apart and tried to match up a battery for it, but it's a made for Brinkman and the size is oddball. That's normal for Brinkman I believe.

I just bought a Victor Twin Beam Sport Spot. It's got two halogens and two batteries, so I figure to use just one side till it goes bad and then use the other side. For $22 + shipping, it might just last for 2-3 years...

I'm still going to Mod the Mag 2D, but I'm torn between doing Incan or LED. There's pro's and cons to both. Still hashing it out. Incan is cheaper all the way round, but I've never had a LED and I would like to.

Since I'm making the battery pack it will be 7.2v or 9.6v, so there's lots of Incan bulbs to work with. I really have thought about a SSC P7 D-bin emitter, but I'm not sure which Buck puck I would need to use with it. Still trying to figure that one out. I want to build one flashlight myself and see what it's like.

Decisions, Decisions..........

 

[M@elstrom]

I'm still going to Mod the Mag 2D, but I'm torn between doing Incan or LED. There's pro's and cons to both. Still hashing it out. Incan is cheaper all the way round, but I've never had a LED and I would like to.

Since I'm making the battery pack it will be 7.2v or 9.6v, so there's lots of Incan bulbs to work with. I really have thought about a SSC P7 D-bin emitter, but I'm not sure which Buck puck I would need to use with it. Still trying to figure that one out. I want to build one flashlight myself and see what it's like.

Decisions, Decisions..........

Pity you don't already have a 3D Maglite host you could easily power it (directly NO driver requirted) off 3 NiMh D cells (OR Alkalines like I currently am) :thumbsup:

BTW nice choice of replacement spotty... make an excellent HID host y'know

 

[jusval]

I took a few shots at the warehouse to show what I am looking for. Hopefully it will help, maybe not... The light used is my Brinkman Spotlight. The one that goes dead in 5 minutes. I have had it about 2 years and I will buy another one. Not a Brinkman, but a Vector Twin Beam spotlight. I think it works for my long range primary light. I just want to have a wider flood for closer up.

Daytime shot of a building across the street 150 yards away.

Nighttime shot of the same building. Lit up good, works for me.

Daytime shot from 100 feet away

Nighttime shot from 100 feet away. OK, but I would like more flood.

Asile in the warehouse, OK, but again I would like more flood.

Shot at about 30 feet, definitely would like more flood.

All the shots look dark, but that's just my picture taking. The Brinkman is really bright and has worked fo me, up untill the battery started getting weak and not holding a charge.

I would like to have the Maglite set up to be used for a larger flood of light, especially close up (under 50'). I have another thread for the mod of the Maglite https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/214996
and I am reading more in the forums and online, to figure out what to do. There's really almost too many options and possibilities for a new person. It's overwhelming and it's frustrating when there's 30 or 40 recommendations instead of one or two. A newbie can't make educated decisions and I'm the kind that has to be very sure before I will make the plunge....

Thanks to all of you for your patience with me....

Ok, from the poor shots here with the distances, is it possible to "guess" about what would be comparable? As in a SSC P7 or what Incan bulb might be comparable (in lumens) in a flashlight.

See I still have a problem with the whole lumen thing because it seems with so many variables, (reflector style, lens style, coatings, etc.) that just talking lumens isn't the answer, but still so many just use lumens.

For instance, the SSC P7 D-bin rated to 900 lumens max? Well that should be bright, but is it going to give me more flood or not. I mean I loose the adjustability of the 2D as far as focus, so what do I end up with? LED emitters are directional right, so some throw and some flood? If I did use an Incan with 900 lumens, I probably wouldn't want to hold the light for long right? Due to the heat.....

So how do these spotlights (made strictly of very cheap plastic, with no heatsinks) get so DARN Bright withought melting the housing and reflector?? I just don't understand....... The more I read, the more lost I get......

 

[jusval]

Ok, here's my thought for the 2D using a SSC P7 D-bin.

I have found the emitter in many places, but I did find one place where the emitter and a heatsink are sold together from here.
http://www.britelumens.com/emitters_and_parts

It's sold together or seperate and also has the Sekonix lens/filter, which I find interesting. If any of you have used it(Sekonix), I would be interested to know how it works. I'm looking for flood more than throw....

Also there's another heatsink that is much less expensive and looks more like what I'm used to, at Cutter here.
http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut765
It should be just about a perfect diameter for the 2D.

Now, the buck-driver would come from Der Witchel.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/201981
I think it's a step above the rest and it allows for me using my 8AAA 9.6V battery pack, that I'm making.

Then, of course an aluminum reflector. Again, from many sources.
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1739

The lens from Flashlightlens.com
http://www.flashlightlens.com/
I would think the UCL lens would be right.

I think that's about it. It's more money than I had wanted, but....... It will just have to be a winter project over several months.....

Thoughts on how this will work please?

I have been searching and find some things on it, but not enough to tell me it's the right way for sure. My understanding is that the P7 is more of a flood than a thrower, so maybe I don't even need the Sekonix at all. Maybe just the reflector and lens is fine and dandy.....

I made sure the buck-converter will work for my 9.6v and the P7, so I just need to decide on the heatsink. I know the $40 one is nice, but I think that the one from Cutter (finned) should do as well. Fins work. I've used enough of them in the PC business.

So, fire away with thoughts, if you want...

I'm also going to see if I can get all this stuff from CPF members, instead of buying from overseas. I would rather keep the money here, so if you members have this stuff for sale I would want to talk to you about it. Just PM me. As I say, I can't buy it all at one time at these prices, but a little at a time works..........

Thanks.............