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yellow

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I see the pics and know: led --> no chance
thats simply too far


possibly a multiemitter / P7 / MC-E at that 100 feet distance (thats about 30 meters, right?)

+ a good, small single emitter for the short distances (because of size and runtime)




PS, this is getting a long post again ... :rolleyes:
as for the parts chosen for building You own lights: forget these.
1st of all: when starting to mod, get the P7 mounted on a Star, dont try to mount a bare led with Your first tries.
Plus: I see one single item that immediately shows me You unfortunately got an old and crappy guide (one that was crappy even when it was new): that HEATSINK
... shitty, not because it would not work - works good - but with using it, You get more additional problems than it solves
(... so much for this. Long story when You start the threads with actual problems while modding). ;)

My advise is:
get something like a cheap multiemitter light, or a cheap quad die led (P7) light, or a cheap quad die led (MC-E) light...
I would advise the multiemitter, not because it might be considerably better, but that reflector with the Quad-dies :rolleyes: I know I wont like them (too wide, not deep enough).
Any of them is best option now (for starting modding with them)
All have been chosen because of the 2 18650 batteries (when You are lucky this is correct) but You might find something better suiting to Your ideas

As soon as You dont like something on it, something fails, or You simply want to use a better driver,
You can disassemble each of these things very easily, learning how a led light should be built in general:
front glass, focusing device, led mounted on sink plate, sink plate press fitted into housing, driver, batteries.

Sure the parts are not the best, but they are quite ok, especially for the price. You can change everything with much better ones, but keep the housing and the heatsinking plate that puts the heat away from the led to the housing - which acts as heatsink
(thats why a "real" sink is useless, it is just unnecessary wheight not housed at the outside to give the heat to the air)

Whatever You do inside the light (better led, better driver, better focusing), when reassembled, nothing will look homemade
... the light from the guide that uses the sink does look homemade, correct?
(as a plus, one saves much running to get additional parts like glass, O-rings, ..., which all come in a package when purchasing a "ready made" light, which is - at the same time - cheaper and much less building effort)

PS: there is also a chance You immediately like that light and dont have to mod anything



PPS: Sorry, have not noticed one here:
Ok, here's my thought for the 2D using a SSC P7 D-bin.
another advise: there are sinks available that perfectly fit a Mag and screw into the inside threads.
Much easier than modding that sink You found.
They will be more expensive but with shipping added, it will be equal --> again much work saved and much better fit and thermal path to housing

I have not followed that driver thread (and the 1st post gives not too much info)...
... when the P7 is driven at spec (2.8 A), the draw with an 8-cell pack should be around 1 A.
Dunno if the AAAs can give that. If they can, runtime will be about 40 mins
(2 18650: 1.75 hours with same sized but lighter and better gripable light)

PS: You can try the original reflector 1st. If it melts, then get another
 
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jusval

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Dec 1, 2008
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Hmmm... I'm curious which Brinkmann model it is? how about getting a new 12v SLA for it (sounds like yours is dying)? :thinking:


is it this ugly mutha?

brinkmannledhalogensg8.jpg

That's the one and it's 6v and tiny, with no space for larger.
 

jusval

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Dec 1, 2008
Messages
253
I see the pics and know: led --> no chance
thats simply too far

Sorry for my not being clear. I have purchased a new 6v halogen spotlight. That is what I will use at work. I'm not looking for a thrower. I am just wanting to mod the 2D. Why? Because you guys have affected me... I really want to make one for myself. Not just a bulb change, not just a couple of batteries, but do a Mod that is from the shell up...

Why? To occupy my time that's all..........


PS, this is getting a long post again ... :rolleyes:
as for the parts chosen for building You own lights: forget these.
1st of all: when starting to mod, get the P7 mounted on a Star, dont try to mount a bare led with Your first tries.
(OK, I thought I might try it. I've never done LED, but I've done a lot with different components and have attached heat sinks to many things.)

Plus: I see one single item that immediately shows me You unfortunately got an old and crappy guide (one that was crappy even when it was new): that HEATSINK
... shitty, not because it would not work - works good - but with using it, You get more additional problems than it solves
(... so much for this. Long story when You start the threads with actual problems while modding). ;)
(I will look for threads with problems in them).

PPS: Sorry, have not noticed one here:another advise: there are sinks available that perfectly fit a Mag and screw into the inside threads.
Much easier than modding that sink You found.
(I haven't found any yet, but I can keep searching).

(2 18650: 1.75 hours with same sized but lighter and better gripable light)
(I really don't want to mess with Lithium. I Know everyone else loves them, but I just personally don't want to. Plus I've got about 48 AA Nimh laying around and chargers out the wazoo....)

I'm not trying to be difficult, it just comes natural to me :devil: and I really do appreciate the comments very much. I probably listen to too much and it causes me to ask too many questions.....

I don't want to say " I want a P7 Mag 2D and I want y'all to tell me what exactly I need to buy" First because I want to investigate and read, but also because I can see that I will probably get 20 different answers on how to do that P7. That does NOT mean I'm saying there's too many answers, it's just like the rest of life, everyone has a different idea, a different way and I don't know enough yet, to know which ones are the best, that's all... So I read the threads and think about the stuff that people seem to say works, like the P7 and that huge honking heatsink, which I would have never thought was any good at all. If I had to do one without any help, I would use a heat sink that went directly to/through the body of the light and would put holes thru the lbody to let cooling in. That's why I am looking at what y'all do, to find out the right way...
 

yellow

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Oct 31, 2002
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it's perfectly ok to mod the Mag ... most anyone of us started by doing so.
That light is the best base to start modding, because:
* You have it
* it looks good
* is good quality
* not expensive
* features much space inside wich eases starting
* has much aftermarket parts to choose from

also my bad that I did not get that You want to use AAs.
In that case (with a P7 driven at spec of 2.8 A) runtime will be around 2.5 hours

what the Mag-mod should look like:
front glass - focusing device - led - mounting/thermal plate (=sink) - driver - springs - batteries

still, the choices on individual led, driver, focusing device (reflector/optic) are still countless and the finished mod will be truly individual :)

some ideas of aftermarket parts, f.e. here: http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/index.php?cPath=48_56_73
the sinks featured fit very tightly - good for getting heat to the light body - but unfortunately there is no sink for a single emitter. You will need something that has no hole in the middle (there are some pics at "homemade and modded" dealing with P7, where pics of useful sinks are).
If You think You can build Your own one, no problem.

When the sink is anodized, no problem any more with shortings, then using a bare led is also ok.
Placing one mounted on a Star is just easier and better to mod in the future --> when using screws to fix it


Short lines to the heatsink I did critic: it has fins at the back side, to enlarge surface and thus ease to put the heat to the surrounding air. But inside the light, there is no flowing air, so the fins are totally useless. A thick, flat sheet of aluminium in direct contact to the body is much better. Therefore --> no such sink


PS: have You tried if a quad AA pack fits into the diameter of the Mag? Newer ones are slightly too small
 
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M@elstrom

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Sunraysia, Australia
jusval said:
For instance, the SSC P7 D-bin rated to 900 lumens max? Well that should be bright, but is it going to give me more flood or not. I mean I loose the adjustability of the 2D as far as focus, so what do I end up with? LED emitters are directional right, so some throw and some flood? If I did use an Incan with 900 lumens, I probably wouldn't want to hold the light for long right? Due to the heat.....


I gotta' be straight up with ya' mate... the D binned P7 M@g I just built seems to pretty much equal my 50w M@g hotwire in throw, spill,& overall performance just not as warm (pretty white by comparison), the quad emitter's focus isn't as 'tight' as the original Maglite's either (using the modified original reflector) but more than sufficient if you use H22A's pedestal type heatsink (or similar) :thumbsup:

Yes the heat will dissipate throughout the M@g host body but you won't be burning your hands that's for sure... I'd also recommend using a smear of thermal paste in the threads of the head-to-body section to assist the thermal flow ;)


yellow said:
You can try the original reflector 1st. If it melts, then get another
yellow said:
1st of all: when starting to mod, get the P7 mounted on a Star, dont try to mount a bare led with Your first tries.

I would've thought that using a star emitter base effects the focus ability of the cut down Maglite 's reflector doesn't it? Additionally the P7s don't create the kind of heat Hotwires do... the cutdown original reflector will be fine (at least in my experience)! ;)

FWIW You can skip the whole driver approach if you direct feed the P7 at around 3.7v (depending on the particular forward voltage specifications of the chosen emitter) much easier IMHO ;)

H22A has been selling P7 dedicated M@g sinks (both anodized & bare aluminium) in CPFs Mod & Custom B/S/T section for some time, his sales thread can be found HERE :D

There's plenty of D binned P7 (3.5~3.75v) emitters for sale in CPF's Marketplace too for around $30.00 USD (shipped within the CONUS), however the best results seem to be had with a Vf of 3.2~3.5v (I prefix), those can be sourced from Amilite.co.kr @ $35.00 USD (shipped EMS to your door) :D

yellow said:
Sorry, have not noticed one here:another advise: there are sinks available that perfectly fit a Mag and screw into the inside threads.
Much easier than modding that sink You found.

FWIW the aftermarket P7 M@g heatsinks don't 'screw in' they're an 'interference fit' :thumbsup:
 

jusval

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Dec 1, 2008
Messages
253
Speaking of Li-Ion batteries......... I'm sorry but after reading the warnings about Li-ion I would never use them for any reason.

This link to batteryspace . com is a perfect example. After really reading all the rules and guidelines, I might a well keep open containers of gasoline in my garage, next to the smoking area and close all the doors, it would be safer....

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=32

Excerpt:
Put battery in the fireproof container and charge in an isolated area, away from other flammable materials. Always have fire extinguisher for emergency use.


Sorry, but it's way too risky for me. I know it's not for most all of you and that's great, but that's why I use NiMh and if I can't get the right combo, then I won't make the Mod.....

Now back to the discussion.................. Sorry for the interruption.....
 

Jarl

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Li-ion really isn't that bad. You struggle to make a protected cell explode through normal use. I have no problem recommending protected single cell li-ion using lights to friends... multi cell is bit scarier, but the risks are still practically nil. Personally I'm a lot more worried about being struck by lightning than having a li-ion go off on me. Alternatively, you might want to look into AW's new IMR18650's. These won't explode, no matter what you do to them, and can run at a higher discharge current. The disadvantage is slightly lower capacity than convetional li-ion. Bear in mind batteryspace need to cover their backs.

As for a duty light, I was surprised at the few recommendatios thtis got. Won't have enough ooomph to light up the whole thing, but the two levels are very good, and you can easily get 150+ feet from high, and low is great for just walking round with. Quite a floody beam, too. Coupled with IMR18650's and you'll get 30 to 40 minutes runtime/cell, with no dangers of explosions.

As for modding, personally I'd go for 6 NiMH AA's powering a warm or neutral white cree MC-E running 2s2p, potentially with a resistor if the current proves a bit too high (>1.5A) with applicable heatsink and a textured reflector.
 
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jusval

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Dec 1, 2008
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I gotta' be straight up with ya' mate... the D binned P7 M@g I just built seems to pretty much equal my 50w M@g hotwire in throw, spill,& overall performance just not as warm (pretty white by comparison), the quad emitter's focus isn't as 'tight' as the original Maglite's either (using the modified original reflector) but more than sufficient if you use H22A's pedestal type heatsink (or similar) :thumbsup:

Well since I want a FLOOD, then the quad emitter would be better for what I want.

Yes the heat will dissipate throughout the M@g host body but you won't be burning your hands that's for sure... I'd also recommend using a smear of thermal paste in the threads of the head-to-body section to assist the thermal flow ;)
Yes, the more I read, the more people say that the P7 does not run excessively hot. Still ok to be handheld even after running for a while.


FWIW You can skip the whole driver approach if you direct feed the P7 at around 3.7v (depending on the particular forward voltage specifications of the chosen emitter) much easier IMHO ;)

I will be using either 7.2V or 9.6V, so I will be using Der Wicthel's Buck.
Going to make use of all those AA batteries.

H22A has been selling P7 dedicated M@g sinks (both anodized & bare aluminium) in CPFs Mod & Custom B/S/T section for some time, his sales thread can be found HERE :D

There's plenty of D binned P7 (3.5~3.75v) emitters for sale in CPF's Marketplace too for around $30.00 USD (shipped within the CONUS), however the best results seem to be had with a Vf of 3.2~3.5v (I prefix), those can be sourced from Amilite.co.kr @ $35.00 USD (shipped EMS to your door) :D
FWIW the aftermarket P7 M@g heatsinks don't 'screw in' they're an 'interference fit' :thumbsup:

Thanks for the information here....
 

M@elstrom

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I will be using either 7.2V or 9.6V, so I will be using Der Wicthel's Buck.
Going to make use of all those AA batteries.

I'd have to agree no sense in wasting AA Nimhs if you've already got them! :D

Good luck with your Mod, I look forward to hearing your results :thumbsup:
 

Cydonia

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Yes, it makes sense to utilize all those AA NiMh cells you already have. Why open up a new can of worms with Li-ion and the required new chargers?

Don't forget this Maglite heatsink: (not from the USA though..) Multi-Sink

The best 6AA to 2D adapter are the ones by fivemega.
Some people just use one of these and a 6 cell Magnum Star bulb.
Only puts out about 200 lumens - but you don't need to buy an aluminum reflector or glass lens.
 

M@elstrom

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The best 6AA to 2D adapter are the ones by fivemega.
Some people just use one of these and a 6 cell Magnum Star bulb.
Only puts out about 200 lumens - but you don't need to buy an aluminum reflector or glass lens.

Good idea Cydonia, some people also utilize Pelican's lower wattage Big D PR-bulb too in a sort of 'Meow-of-the-Pelican' (as opposed to Roar-of-the-Pelican hence the term/acronym ROP) I believe brightguy.com has a good supply of these, additionally FiveMega makes a PR-base to bi-pin adapter that would allow you to utilize a 5w~10w Halogen lamp (AFAIK 10w is the maximum the reflector/lens can handle before melting down) Kiu also makes a permanent bi-pin modification kit which is available through CPFs Custom & Mod B/S/T forum section (should you wish tyo go that route) :thumbsup:

Don't forget this Maglite heatsink: (not from the USA though..) Multi-Sink

I dunno' about using those 'download' multi application M@g-sinks for the P7... they're great for multi-emitter applications but notice where the wire feed goes? right through the centre essentially directly underneath where the rear of the emitter base would be, personally I'd rather have some 'meat' (read as significant quantity of aluminium) behind the hottest part of the emitter to assist with the thermal ducting ;)
 
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csshih

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hehe, sorta off topic, but 2 cops just showed up at my house at around 11PM, and I noticed 1 of them was carry a pretty big flashlight.. a 6D mag, it seems?
seems that someone called 911 on a cell, and the cops don't know where, just in the general area.
 

M@elstrom

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You shoulda' given the Forums a free plug... in terms of flashlight resource material! :D

A couple of local LEOs have been quite curious regarding the modded lights I've made for one of their acquaintances, namely the HID spotlight... though they may become equally interested in the P7 M@gs I've also been commissioned to construct, Mag-Chargers are their current light-of-choice :thumbsup:
 
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