I see the pics and know: led --> no chance
thats simply too far
possibly a multiemitter / P7 / MC-E at that 100 feet distance (thats about 30 meters, right?)
+ a good, small single emitter for the short distances (because of size and runtime)
PS, this is getting a long post again ...
as for the parts chosen for building You own lights: forget these.
1st of all: when starting to mod, get the P7 mounted on a Star, dont try to mount a bare led with Your first tries.
Plus: I see one single item that immediately shows me You unfortunately got an old and crappy guide (one that was crappy even when it was new): that HEATSINK
... shitty, not because it would not work - works good - but with using it, You get more additional problems than it solves
(... so much for this. Long story when You start the threads with actual problems while modding).
My advise is:
get something like a cheap multiemitter light, or a cheap quad die led (P7) light, or a cheap quad die led (MC-E) light...
I would advise the multiemitter, not because it might be considerably better, but that reflector with the Quad-dies I know I wont like them (too wide, not deep enough).
Any of them is best option now (for starting modding with them)
All have been chosen because of the 2 18650 batteries (when You are lucky this is correct) but You might find something better suiting to Your ideas
As soon as You dont like something on it, something fails, or You simply want to use a better driver,
You can disassemble each of these things very easily, learning how a led light should be built in general:
front glass, focusing device, led mounted on sink plate, sink plate press fitted into housing, driver, batteries.
Sure the parts are not the best, but they are quite ok, especially for the price. You can change everything with much better ones, but keep the housing and the heatsinking plate that puts the heat away from the led to the housing - which acts as heatsink
(thats why a "real" sink is useless, it is just unnecessary wheight not housed at the outside to give the heat to the air)
Whatever You do inside the light (better led, better driver, better focusing), when reassembled, nothing will look homemade
... the light from the guide that uses the sink does look homemade, correct?
(as a plus, one saves much running to get additional parts like glass, O-rings, ..., which all come in a package when purchasing a "ready made" light, which is - at the same time - cheaper and much less building effort)
PS: there is also a chance You immediately like that light and dont have to mod anything
PPS: Sorry, have not noticed one here:
Much easier than modding that sink You found.
They will be more expensive but with shipping added, it will be equal --> again much work saved and much better fit and thermal path to housing
I have not followed that driver thread (and the 1st post gives not too much info)...
... when the P7 is driven at spec (2.8 A), the draw with an 8-cell pack should be around 1 A.
Dunno if the AAAs can give that. If they can, runtime will be about 40 mins
(2 18650: 1.75 hours with same sized but lighter and better gripable light)
PS: You can try the original reflector 1st. If it melts, then get another
thats simply too far
possibly a multiemitter / P7 / MC-E at that 100 feet distance (thats about 30 meters, right?)
+ a good, small single emitter for the short distances (because of size and runtime)
PS, this is getting a long post again ...
as for the parts chosen for building You own lights: forget these.
1st of all: when starting to mod, get the P7 mounted on a Star, dont try to mount a bare led with Your first tries.
Plus: I see one single item that immediately shows me You unfortunately got an old and crappy guide (one that was crappy even when it was new): that HEATSINK
... shitty, not because it would not work - works good - but with using it, You get more additional problems than it solves
(... so much for this. Long story when You start the threads with actual problems while modding).
My advise is:
get something like a cheap multiemitter light, or a cheap quad die led (P7) light, or a cheap quad die led (MC-E) light...
I would advise the multiemitter, not because it might be considerably better, but that reflector with the Quad-dies I know I wont like them (too wide, not deep enough).
Any of them is best option now (for starting modding with them)
All have been chosen because of the 2 18650 batteries (when You are lucky this is correct) but You might find something better suiting to Your ideas
As soon as You dont like something on it, something fails, or You simply want to use a better driver,
You can disassemble each of these things very easily, learning how a led light should be built in general:
front glass, focusing device, led mounted on sink plate, sink plate press fitted into housing, driver, batteries.
Sure the parts are not the best, but they are quite ok, especially for the price. You can change everything with much better ones, but keep the housing and the heatsinking plate that puts the heat away from the led to the housing - which acts as heatsink
(thats why a "real" sink is useless, it is just unnecessary wheight not housed at the outside to give the heat to the air)
Whatever You do inside the light (better led, better driver, better focusing), when reassembled, nothing will look homemade
... the light from the guide that uses the sink does look homemade, correct?
(as a plus, one saves much running to get additional parts like glass, O-rings, ..., which all come in a package when purchasing a "ready made" light, which is - at the same time - cheaper and much less building effort)
PS: there is also a chance You immediately like that light and dont have to mod anything
PPS: Sorry, have not noticed one here:
another advise: there are sinks available that perfectly fit a Mag and screw into the inside threads.Ok, here's my thought for the 2D using a SSC P7 D-bin.
Much easier than modding that sink You found.
They will be more expensive but with shipping added, it will be equal --> again much work saved and much better fit and thermal path to housing
I have not followed that driver thread (and the 1st post gives not too much info)...
... when the P7 is driven at spec (2.8 A), the draw with an 8-cell pack should be around 1 A.
Dunno if the AAAs can give that. If they can, runtime will be about 40 mins
(2 18650: 1.75 hours with same sized but lighter and better gripable light)
PS: You can try the original reflector 1st. If it melts, then get another
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