G2 drop-ins

[m13a8]

Hey everybody, I've been away from the forums for quite a long time, because I ran out of funds for this hobby. I looked and I have some extra money sitting around now. I want to spend around $50 but no more than $75.

I would definitely like a new drop-in (I'm currently using one I got for around $13 on dealextreme in late 2007), some rechargeable batteries, a charger, and maybe a clicky switch.

Am I asking too much for all of that for this price? The clicky is not necessary. Does anybody have suggestions for drop-ins and rechargeables? I was kind of looking at some stuff at lighthound.com (great site by the way, ordered from there once and I was very satisfied), but I've been away too long to remember what's good and what isn't.

Any help is appreciated .

EDIT: I just saw the banner at the top for the IBS lights. I'm thinking about just getting one of these instead!

 

[dmz]

Re: G2 modifications

p60 drop in = DX Cree R2 or Solarforce R2

clicky = Z49 or Z57

 

[DM51]

Re: G2 modifications

Drop-ins are not modifications, so this does not belong in 'Homemade & Modified'.

I'm moving it to LED.

 

[roymail]

m13a8, be sure to use quality rechargeables these sold by AW which are a popular choice around here. And, read the mdocod's thread before you use them.

You didn't say which DX drop-in you're currently using, but the #6090 (I have 2 of them) is used by many. If you go to a Q5 or R2bin, you may run into heat issues with the G2.

Your money may be better spent on quality batteries and a quality charger for now. Oh, and welcome back to CPF!

 

[Wattnot]

I've done the research and I have two DX item number 6090 and I believe they are the best bet for the G2. There have been a large number of "best drop-in for G2" threads and you will see the 6090 mentioned in all of them (and not only by me either!!).

It's very bright while not drawing too much current so it should stay cooler in the G2. However, I have not yet tried leaving it on for any length of time but nobody has reported any major heat problems with this setup.

You can use a rechargeable with it . .. .I believe the 17670 protected works but I use CR123 primaries in mine since I leave them in vehicles in summer and winter (I'm not saying you can't do that with rechargeables . . but it does shorten their life in the summer and their runtime in the winter).

Avoid the ones that draw anything close to an amp because those are the ones that will heat up.

If you don't mind spending the money, the Malkoff M60L or M60LL is said to be best for the G2. If you have the newer metal head G2 then you have more options. All of my advices is geared toward the full nitrolon material.

:wave:

 

[Bullzeyebill]

I've done the research and I have two DX item number 6090 and I believe they are the best bet for the G2. There have been a large number of "best drop-in for G2" threads and you will see the 6090 mentioned in all of them (and not only by me either!!).

It's very bright while not drawing too much current so it should stay cooler in the G2. However, I have not yet tried leaving it on for any length of time but nobody has reported any major heat problems with this setup.

You can use a rechargeable with it . .. .I believe the 17670 protected works but I use CR123 primaries in mine since I leave them in vehicles in summer and winter (I'm not saying you can't do that with rechargeables . . but it does shorten their life in the summer and their runtime in the winter).

Avoid the ones that draw anything close to an amp because those are the ones that will heat up.

If you don't mind spending the money, the Malkoff M60L or M60LL is said to be best for the G2. If you have the newer metal head G2 then you have more options. All of my advices is geared toward the full nitrolon material.

:wave:

My DX 1447 works ok in my G2Z. No real heat issues. I think amps to led is around 700, and puts out approximately 100 lumens, this compared to other Led lights I own, including KL5, checking bounce with lightmeter.

 

[kramer5150]

I dont have a G2 so take this with some caution...
I do have the 6090 and R2 DX drop ins for my 6P. The R2 does generate more heat. So if you intend to leave the light on for 10-15 minute duration with no movement and air circulation over the light the 6090 would probably be a safer choice.

You might want to invest in a solarforce aluminum bezel, or hunt down one from a parted-out 6P, just to play it safe.

For an all-nitrolon G2 I would think a multi-mode drop in would be best. That way you can keep temperatures in-check, and still retain use of the light with the lower output modes.

 

[m13a8]

Awesome guys, thanks for all the help!!

Instead of putting more money into the G2, I got a JetBeam MKII I.B.S (it just got here today!), an Ultrafire 14500 protected, and an ultrafire charger.

I am very happy with my new light!

Thanks again for all your suggestions!

 

[dmz]

Will buying a metal head and placing it on the nitrolon body solve the heat issues with a Q5 or R2 drop in?

Solarforce Flashlight Tactical Heads are available.

 

[kavvika]

That's what Surefire did with the G2L, and it'll be better than the nitrolon head, but really, the body helps most for heatsinking.

 

[Wattnot]

Awesome guys, thanks for all the help!!

Instead of putting more money into the G2, I got a JetBeam MKII I.B.S (it just got here today!), an Ultrafire 14500 protected, and an ultrafire charger.

I am very happy with my new light!

Thanks again for all your suggestions!

I've said the same thing in several threads . . . . the drop-in issues with the G2 made me regret buying them a little bit (I have two). But the 6090 has restored my liking them again! It really is powerful and bright. It's a bit of a vampire too . . . I had some batteries reading 2.5 volts each and it just kept putting out light. You could tell for sure it was low, but it just kept going.

Unless you are good about not using it for more than 5 minutes straight, especially if you set it down while ON, only use the 6090 or the M60L or LL.

The multimode suggestion is a good one too but again, you're limited on HIGH and you have to work the momentary button and twist for changing modes. There is no clicky on the G2.

 

[RWT1405]

All of my G-2's have Malkoff M60LL's in them. No problem with heat & 8 hrs. "full output" (80 +/- lumens) run-time. I highly recommend them! My .02 FWIW

 

[Centropolis]

That's what Surefire did with the G2L, and it'll be better than the nitrolon head, but really, the body helps most for heatsinking.

Okay this is a noob question.....I own a black G2 and a yellow G2L both stock. I thought the only different is the lamp/led assembly. You mean the head of the G2L is designed differently than a regular G2 to be a better heat sink?

I really thought that if I exchange the P60 and the P60L between the two it'll be the same thing? (Am I making sense?? )

 

[Centropolis]

I've done the research and I have two DX item number 6090 and I believe they are the best bet for the G2. There have been a large number of "best drop-in for G2" threads and you will see the 6090 mentioned in all of them (and not only by me either!!).

It's very bright while not drawing too much current so it should stay cooler in the G2. However, I have not yet tried leaving it on for any length of time but nobody has reported any major heat problems with this setup.

You can use a rechargeable with it . .. .I believe the 17670 protected works but I use CR123 primaries in mine since I leave them in vehicles in summer and winter (I'm not saying you can't do that with rechargeables . . but it does shorten their life in the summer and their runtime in the winter).

Avoid the ones that draw anything close to an amp because those are the ones that will heat up.

If you don't mind spending the money, the Malkoff M60L or M60LL is said to be best for the G2. If you have the newer metal head G2 then you have more options. All of my advices is geared toward the full nitrolon material.

:wave:

Just wondering if anyone compared a G2 with the DX6090 with a G2L (stock with a P60L).

Also, does anyone know if th up coming P61L from SF will be for the G2 as well or the heat is going to be a problem again?

 

[Lunal_Tic]

You might also find some info here What LED module will survive in G2?

-LT

 

[nylaw]

G2 drop-in with KR1 kit

I saw the other G2 threads but not anything about the KR1. What would be some of my options?

 

[kramer5150]

Okay this is a noob question.....I own a black G2 and a yellow G2L both stock. I thought the only different is the lamp/led assembly. You mean the head of the G2L is designed differently than a regular G2 to be a better heat sink?

I really thought that if I exchange the P60 and the P60L between the two it'll be the same thing? (Am I making sense?? )

The G2L has an aluminum bezel to help dissipate heat and keep the LED cool. The incan G2 has a nitrolon head because incans are not as sensitive to heat build up.

From what I understand the earlier G2Ls came with nitrolon heads, it was some time after product launch they made the design change. (thats my understanding)

 

[Justin Case]

Will buying a metal head and placing it on the nitrolon body solve the heat issues with a Q5 or R2 drop in?

Solarforce Flashlight Tactical Heads are available.

It is my understanding that the Solarforce head's tactical bezel ring also holds in the glass window. Without the bezel ring in place, the window will fall out. If you don't want the tactical bezel ring, you don't have much of a choice with the Solarforce.

Thus, if you want a plain 6P-compatible metal bezel, I would go with the G&P product. You can remove the tactical ring and replace it with a retaining ring to hold the window in place, effectively giving you a plain 6P bezel with a glass window.

Regarding heat dissipation, the entire 6Z got hot when I ran a 50 minute run time test on a 6Z/DX6090 combination driven by two 3.7V RCR123As. I would assume that without a metal body to help conduct heat away from the DX6090, using just a metal bezel would help but would not be as effective as a 100% metal flashlight. The hard question to answer is at what temp would the metal bezel reach.

I have a G2 with a 6P bezel and could run a test. But it will have to wait a few days.

 

[Centropolis]

The G2L has an aluminum head to help dissipate heat and keep the LED cool. The incan G2 has a nitrolon head because incans are not as sensitive to heat build up.

From what I understand the earlier G2Ls came with nitrolon heads, it was some time after product launch they made the design change. (thats my understanding)

So if I feel the bezel of my G2L and it is made of the same material as the body.....then I have the old ones right? Or when you talk about "head" is something else?

I am starting to feel sad because my two G2s can't take a higher output drop-in!

 

[Justin Case]

I ran an ad hoc test of a DX 6090 in a G2 with an old-style round 6P metal bezel. Drove the DX 6090 using two AW RCR123A cells. I had previously measured about 0.54 amps at the tailcap with this setup. With two SureFire CR123A cells, I had measured about 0.8 amps at the tailcap.

Unfortunately, I don't have my temp meter/thermocouple handy, so measures of temperature will have to be subjective. My lux meter is also not around right now, so light output will also be based on subjective observation.

After about 3 minutes of continuous operation, the bezel started to get warm, similar to keeping the light in your pocket next to your body. After about 10 minutes, the light was clearly warm, but not objectionably so. You could put the bezel against your cheek or upper lip and not feel discomfort. At 15 minutes, the bezel felt hot. Not burning hot, but clearly a level beyond what I felt at 10 minutes. I decided to suspend the test and open up the light. The DX 6090 was very hot to the touch -- uncomfortably so. I could unscrew the pill, but I did so quickly and with minimum finger contact.

There was no visual damage to the DX 6090, the LED still seemed attached securely (the white thermal adhesive didn't seem to have softened), and the LED was still putting out the same amount of light based on observation.

The polymer G2 body and AW cells also stayed cool.