wvaltakis2
Enlightened
So... I could be there in about... half an hour if you guys need an extra hand.:wave:
Save you some money on processing and shipping my ti
~Chip
Save you some money on processing and shipping my ti
~Chip
GatLight V3 - Carbon Fiber / Titanium with Cree XR-E
- Thread starter mobile1
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Phredd
Enlightened
So, it could be a while before I get my Tux. If I'm not in the 50-60%, you could just send me the parts. It could be fun putting it together myself.
Shurock
Newly Enlightened
Oh, so close.
Someone, please go on a limb and tell us the best rechargeable battery type and voltage to use. I know there are many options, but I just want one definitive choice by an expert. I want to have it ready when GLV3 arrives. I am guessing others would like to know as well. Can't wait to don that tuxedo.
Thanks.
Patrick
Someone, please go on a limb and tell us the best rechargeable battery type and voltage to use. I know there are many options, but I just want one definitive choice by an expert. I want to have it ready when GLV3 arrives. I am guessing others would like to know as well. Can't wait to don that tuxedo.
Thanks.
Patrick
Phredd
Enlightened
I think it has to be 3 volts, not 3.7.
DFiorentino
Flashlight Enthusiast
http://www.gatlight.com/Specifications.htm
3.7V (4.2V) Li-ion recommended. Primary CR123A used at reduced max brightness.
-DF
Phredd
Enlightened
I thought the V3 was designed for the 123 primary instead of the 3.7v rechargeable. I just looked back and found this:
It seems there's a discrepency between this and the specs posted on their web site.
mobile1 said:
It seems there's a discrepency between this and the specs posted on their web site.
Last edited:
Amorphous
Enlightened
Did some basic search, and found the following posts that will answer the questions about circuit/driver and batteries: :naughty:
Post - #479 ( 3/2/07 )
Just to clarify the battery issue. The variable brightness works just as well on 3.0V as it does on 3.6V. The only difference is that the output current will be limited to about 500 to 600 mA with the 3.0V. If you want to maximize the output current than we suggest that you use the 3.6V because you will be able to achieve about 1100 mA. However at this high of a current you cannot leave the light on for more than a minute or two. But keep in mind that the highest level with a 3.0V is still brighter than the max output of the V2! Thanks to the new LED.
Post - #498 ( 3/5/07 )
Let me give you a detailed description of 3.6V vs 3V batteries: Generally we spec the light to be used with primary lithium cells.. that is for the general public or simply people who are not that flashlight savy as most of you guys (to you we speced it as 3.6V and 3V below is why).
If you use the light with 3V primary lithium cells the maximum output power is about 600-700mA. The reason for that is the buck/boost chip we are using has a maximum current the chip can handle. Now the lower the battery voltage, the more current the chip has to pull. So if you use a primary lithium and shoot 700mA to the LED... the battery voltage drops from 3V to about 2V... this requires higher currents. If you factor in 123 battery voltage drop under load.. and the max current of the regulation chip you get about 600-700mA to the LED with primary lithiums.
600 or 700 mA is actually an ideal setting, because its a level where you can leave the light on safely for a long period of time. I noticed that quite a few builders (of 1x123 lights) ship their lights with these drive currents. Those who use higher currents tell you to only use it for a limited amount of time (f.e. the spy). Besides running the LEd at 1000mA compared to 700mA is not that much of a difference in terms of brightness, especially if you factor in the heat buildup and impact on brightness. So 700mA makes sense and we feel that you can give the light to an everyday user and he can run the light safely as often as he wants. The nice thing is that the buck/boost chip's max. current limit creates this limit so it wasn't even something we had to implement.
However we know that you guys want as bright as possible and want to run 1000mA or more even if it's not that efficient.. In order to do that, you put a battery in that has a higher voltage (f.e. a rechargeable 3.6V lithium ion). Since the voltage is higher, you won't ever hit the maximum input current of the chip even under load, so you max out at the max. current we set, which is 1000-1100mA. (**)
** And toward the end, the max current was set to around 800mA for effieciency and thermal considerations.
Post - #479 ( 3/2/07 )
Just to clarify the battery issue. The variable brightness works just as well on 3.0V as it does on 3.6V. The only difference is that the output current will be limited to about 500 to 600 mA with the 3.0V. If you want to maximize the output current than we suggest that you use the 3.6V because you will be able to achieve about 1100 mA. However at this high of a current you cannot leave the light on for more than a minute or two. But keep in mind that the highest level with a 3.0V is still brighter than the max output of the V2! Thanks to the new LED.
Post - #498 ( 3/5/07 )
Let me give you a detailed description of 3.6V vs 3V batteries: Generally we spec the light to be used with primary lithium cells.. that is for the general public or simply people who are not that flashlight savy as most of you guys (to you we speced it as 3.6V and 3V below is why).
If you use the light with 3V primary lithium cells the maximum output power is about 600-700mA. The reason for that is the buck/boost chip we are using has a maximum current the chip can handle. Now the lower the battery voltage, the more current the chip has to pull. So if you use a primary lithium and shoot 700mA to the LED... the battery voltage drops from 3V to about 2V... this requires higher currents. If you factor in 123 battery voltage drop under load.. and the max current of the regulation chip you get about 600-700mA to the LED with primary lithiums.
600 or 700 mA is actually an ideal setting, because its a level where you can leave the light on safely for a long period of time. I noticed that quite a few builders (of 1x123 lights) ship their lights with these drive currents. Those who use higher currents tell you to only use it for a limited amount of time (f.e. the spy). Besides running the LEd at 1000mA compared to 700mA is not that much of a difference in terms of brightness, especially if you factor in the heat buildup and impact on brightness. So 700mA makes sense and we feel that you can give the light to an everyday user and he can run the light safely as often as he wants. The nice thing is that the buck/boost chip's max. current limit creates this limit so it wasn't even something we had to implement.
However we know that you guys want as bright as possible and want to run 1000mA or more even if it's not that efficient.. In order to do that, you put a battery in that has a higher voltage (f.e. a rechargeable 3.6V lithium ion). Since the voltage is higher, you won't ever hit the maximum input current of the chip even under load, so you max out at the max. current we set, which is 1000-1100mA. (**)
** And toward the end, the max current was set to around 800mA for effieciency and thermal considerations.
Last edited:
Amorphous
Enlightened
Walter / Kyle,
Awesome work !! I am so glad I've prepaid. Ha haaa.. ( Dodging from the Naysayers ):lolsign:
You see, we got to have faith, especially when you see innovations like this, I did when I first saw the first Version 1 Gatlight design back in 2005. Great job!
Love the whole entire project evolution experience you guys put together. From conception to physical realization, from start to finish, it's great to be part of this experience.
Amorphous
Awesome work !! I am so glad I've prepaid. Ha haaa.. ( Dodging from the Naysayers ):lolsign:
You see, we got to have faith, especially when you see innovations like this, I did when I first saw the first Version 1 Gatlight design back in 2005. Great job!
Love the whole entire project evolution experience you guys put together. From conception to physical realization, from start to finish, it's great to be part of this experience.
Amorphous
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Stillphoto
Flashlight Enthusiast
It's called use what you have. Use primaries, woo hoo. Use Rechargeables, woo hoo, a bit brighter and warmer. Win-win for all!
By the way, the weave on the carbon is beautiful, I like the diagonal bias that you went with instead of lining it up more square to the light. Also, the machined finish is really superb.
I can only imagine what the employees are thinking...Used to putting together insanely cool mil-spec equipment, and now flashlights. I guarantee that was not something they saw themselves doing! They probably dig it though, a change of pace.
I think everyone can handle the longer build times when you make such concise posts documenting the process. Cheers!
By the way, the weave on the carbon is beautiful, I like the diagonal bias that you went with instead of lining it up more square to the light. Also, the machined finish is really superb.
I can only imagine what the employees are thinking...Used to putting together insanely cool mil-spec equipment, and now flashlights. I guarantee that was not something they saw themselves doing! They probably dig it though, a change of pace.
I think everyone can handle the longer build times when you make such concise posts documenting the process. Cheers!
AndyTiedye
Flashlight Enthusiast
That is a stainless steel Gatlight under the TiN, and the screws are coated too.
Modamag arranged for the coating
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=163656
The coating is most commonly done on steel. Check out the drill bits in any good hardware store.
You'll find some with TiN coating (which should also give an indication of how tough it is!)
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skalomax
Flashlight Enthusiast
Ok, I want one.
Where can I get one? will these be shipped from CONUS?
thanks
Where can I get one? will these be shipped from CONUS?
thanks
Miciobigio
Enlightened
:thumbsup:
Great job !!!!
:twothumbs
Great job !!!!
:twothumbs
Phredd
Enlightened
There's a link near the top of the first post.
The Coach
Enlightened
Just when I thought I was out, they pull me back in!!! 
First McGizmo's, now GatLights, I'm going to die a poor, weak man. :sigh:
First McGizmo's, now GatLights, I'm going to die a poor, weak man. :sigh:
Derek Dean
Flashlight Enthusiast
Maybe, but between now and then you will have some awesome lights to play with!Just when I thought I was out, they pull me back in!!!
First McGizmo's, now GatLights, I'm going to die a poor, weak man. :sigh:
mobile1
Flashlight Enthusiast
Half of the Titanium units have been sent to the warehouse, most of them by express mail, meaning they should be mailed out to you guys this week. You should get a tracking number when that happens so keep your eyes open.
Anyway Kyle and I are looking forward to hearing your comments on the V3... let's see who'll get it first...
Oh and by the way start taking photos as with the last round we'll again have a photo competition - the winner will get a free light - our next upcoming light - which will be again unique (and introduce some interesting features you'll likely haven't seen before )
Here are some photos of the GatLight assembly. Of course there are a lot more steps and sub assemblies (driver, knobs etc) than what you can see here. There are over 42 steps to assemble each light - NOT counting the driver assembly which in itself is complex.
The photos show the first step, building the center tube where the Carbon Fiber is epoxied to the metal parts using a special silicone based epoxy to provide submersible water sealing. Once it is all wiped clean and cleaned with alcohol. Second picture shows the bars being inserted. Than you can see the front screws to be tightened, optics and Oring placement, the back screws that need to be tightened, driver insertion and fastening, than battery, Than we do a thorough function test of all features. The last picture shows the matching of the box with the light's serial number, before the light assembly is completed.
To answer the question regarding shipping. The lights will ship from Toledo, Ohio.
Anyway Kyle and I are looking forward to hearing your comments on the V3... let's see who'll get it first...
Oh and by the way start taking photos as with the last round we'll again have a photo competition - the winner will get a free light - our next upcoming light - which will be again unique (and introduce some interesting features you'll likely haven't seen before )
Here are some photos of the GatLight assembly. Of course there are a lot more steps and sub assemblies (driver, knobs etc) than what you can see here. There are over 42 steps to assemble each light - NOT counting the driver assembly which in itself is complex.
The photos show the first step, building the center tube where the Carbon Fiber is epoxied to the metal parts using a special silicone based epoxy to provide submersible water sealing. Once it is all wiped clean and cleaned with alcohol. Second picture shows the bars being inserted. Than you can see the front screws to be tightened, optics and Oring placement, the back screws that need to be tightened, driver insertion and fastening, than battery, Than we do a thorough function test of all features. The last picture shows the matching of the box with the light's serial number, before the light assembly is completed.
To answer the question regarding shipping. The lights will ship from Toledo, Ohio.
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hivoltage
Enlightened
TOLEDO
Thats like a 2 hour drive from me!!! The lights look awsome guys. No matter how nice they are, I am carrying mine....no Shelf Queen for my Gatlight. I already have a holster made for it.
Thats like a 2 hour drive from me!!! The lights look awsome guys. No matter how nice they are, I am carrying mine....no Shelf Queen for my Gatlight. I already have a holster made for it.
The Coach
Enlightened
Maybe, but between now and then you will have some awesome lights to play with!
That's true, and since I recently got my 25th Strider, when Death comes for me, he's going to have a fight on his hands. :naughty:
Now, back out to the mail box.
TigerhawkT3
Flashlight Enthusiast
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