Got My U2.....Now What ?

[wuyeah]

definately not an A2 if you are looking for a narrow beam. A2 gives much wider covering area. Less bright in the center compares to U2. I think L2 has smaller diameter light circle than A2 & U2.

That is all i can tell you, by experience of A2, L2, U2, M2, M3. never experience with other models. Other smaller pocket carry lights are not as "powerfully bright". Less lumens. usually 65 under. take a look of comparing beam shots of bottom link. I don't think they have U2 to compare with. but you can get some idea before any purchase.

As for easy pocket carry, A2 is the most ideal and powerful.

in Japanese. pic at bottom.

http://www.flashlight-fan.com/flame_page/frame_l2.htm

More lights compare in distance. Click top 3 link to view Other/LED/HID/

http://www.flashlight-fan.com/flame...test_1m3m7m.htm

 

[Hoghead]

does Surefire make a flashlight that is "less wide" among the smaller lights (Aviator, A2, L2, etc)?

The A2 is what you want. Be sure to get it with white LEDs unless you have a specific purpose for a different color of LEDs. If you need different colored LEDs you will know it.

 

[BlueLED]

Wuyeah...meet Hoghead! Hoghead...meet Wuyeah!

Guys, can you elaborate on the A2 information, since you gave 180-degree opposite opinions?

Remember: if the concavity of the lens chamber is WIDE the beam is going to be wide. The U2 lights up an area that is 20-30 feet when I shine it at the woods maybe 50-70 feet away. That's a wider area than my 1 MM candlepower light, which despite the wider diamater (by a factor of 4X), does not "angle out" or have a concave-ending chamber where the light emerges (is that clear?).

I guess what I'm saying is: is there something out there that when I shine it at my woods 50-75 feet away will be mostly concentrating on an area of 4-6'? Narrow beam, like a super-thin spotlight.

Thanks.

 

[Somy Nex]

i own the A2 but not the L2, but can give some general suggestions. Kiessling has a post some time ago where he gives some outdoor beamshots, and the A2 L2 & U2 are all in it i believe. (well at least the A2 and U2 for sure) i suggest that that post is one to look for.

the incan of the A2 is made for throw, and it is a slightly oval shape. i believe someone has noted that it is this shape exactly because it was meant for throw. if it was perfectly circular, then the optics are not right.

the L2 from what i read, is a flood light. it has quite a bit of output, but configured more in a flood than actual throw. ONe thing to consider is that if there's a lot of gunk in the air, like fog, smog, whatever, the LED tends to reflect off the gunk obscuring your vision more than an incan does.

the U2, according to quickbeam's throw numbers, throws about as far as an A2. i'd look at quickbeam's site next, as he's reviewed all these lights and his numbers are good references.

 

[Hoghead]

I don't want to get into a debate. I do own all of these lights.

It looks like you might want a Surefire Turbo-Head. I can recommend the M3T or a SRTH on a classic Surefire body like a 9P, D3, C3 etc. to get a nice tight hot spot. It will still have some spil light.

I recommend the N2 lamp assembly which is for 3x123 in a Turbo-Head. The N2 lamp assembly is not for use on a weapon light, that is it is not to be used in a light mounted on a weapon.

A light with a Turbo-Head is to large in diameter for me to EDC unless it is carried in a bag of some sort.

Here's a link to LPS Tactical, the only place you can get the SRTH.

SRTH stands for Short Rim Turbo Head
http://www.lagger-pro.com/hd3t.htm

The M4 & M6 will throw at least as far as the M3T, but they will have a larger hotspot.

 

[wasBlinded]

Wuyeah...meet Hoghead! Hoghead...meet Wuyeah!



Remember: if the concavity of the lens chamber is WIDE the beam is going to be wide. The U2 lights up an area that is 20-30 feet when I shine it at the woods maybe 50-70 feet away. That's a wider area than my 1 MM candlepower light, which despite the wider diamater (by a factor of 4X), does not "angle out" or have a concave-ending chamber where the light emerges (is that clear?).


Thanks.

Its not really that simple. With a given light emitting source, a larger reflector will be able to give a narrower beam angle, as will a deeper reflector.

If you really want a pencil beam in an LED, get a McGizmo Aleph3. A bit less bright but still narrow are the Pelican 'recoil' led lights like the 2010.

 

[deranged_coder]

The new SF KL1 heads (available by themselves to go on a SF E-series body or as part of the E1L and E2L) and the new L1 produce a fairly tight beam with minimal sidespill due to the optic.

 

[wuyeah]

Wuyeah...meet Hoghead! Hoghead...meet Wuyeah!

Guys, can you elaborate on the A2 information, since you gave 180-degree opposite opinions?

I thought Hoghead was talking more about physical diameter of the head and more of light varietion of light compares to U2.

What I was talking about is distance when you shoot your light against the Wall, the beam circle size on the wall. A2 does cover wider and can throw longer. Suits for its purpose as to Aviate.

A2 is prob the best workhorse from surefire, prob the best light judging from its throw, brightness and same time being small. U2 is the best SF LED. M6 is the best brightness as flashlight. The beast will provide daylight in darkness. M3 is the best versitle light for situation since it gets its DNA from the best. M3 has little best of everything, except its not an LED.

 

[BlueLED]

BTW, when I shine the U2 with or without the blue filter, there's a bright core of light at the center (maybe 20% of the whole light ring) and then a less-bright circle outside. I don't see any rings and both circles -- the core bright one and the outside less-bright one -- look very circular.

Is that evidence that my U2 is working fine and has no glitches? I was wondering what was a quick way to make sure a premium light was working as expected, a quick visual test. Any "should haves" or "shouldn't haves" ?