HDS Systems #23

I thought I read that HDS reflows their emitters. Maybe not.
Nichia requires a sizable order qty to order direct, but there's reputable USA based resellers that other custom makers buy from.
For the standard configuration i.e. the 250 we get a ton... the others are ordered in small quantities. When we have them mounted, there is a lot charge besides being quite a bit more per piece as the number being mounted is relatively small. We have a pick-n-place company in Tucson do this for us. They also put together our electronics. They specialize in military contract electronics. The cost of having one panel (54) mounted is substantially higher per piece than having 20 panels (1080) mounted.
 
I have a clicky that I use pretty much daily. It is my only HDS I use RCR123 in. I have noticed that it will turn on when it is just sitting by itself. I thought maybe the battery was low and that was a warning, but it was reading 4v. A few weeks ago I did change the setting to be able to do momentary on for first click and hold. I have the lumens probably about two thirds to high. Maybe it is a faulty battery. I was thinking about just going back to CR123, unless someone knows what is happening. Thanks.
 
Is anyone ordering from that one site with cutlery etc. that sells HDS in Europe? If so, have you been getting your Rotary SDR50 lights, or is it just a shift from Hogo to Henry weeks on the delivery of them?
 
Is anyone ordering from that one site with cutlery etc. that sells HDS in Europe? If so, have you been getting your Rotary SDR50 lights, or is it just a shift from Hogo to Henry weeks on the delivery of them?
I ordered a few times at kives and Tools. If the item you want is Green than it is shipped very fast. If it is in backorder than you need to wait until they have stock. For a HDS I really would wait till it is available, since they also needs to wait until they received their HDS order.
 
I was mostly curious since it seemed like out of the lights that were previously en route some of them showed up as being available and some had a few weeks added to their travel time, if they'd managed to run out of those lights in that order completely and had them planned for the next instead. It's at least nice knowing we aren't looking at months worth of waiting time anymore.
 
Hogo, i've been reading through a lot of the stuff regarding clips etc. on rotaries and their placement with the conclusion that you'd sooner get an honest politician than get the clip holes back on the main body. Henry seems to likewise be equally unhappy with people putting it under/over the reflector since that compromises the beam/water ingress security. All that being said, what would Henry's take be on making cutouts in the part of the reflector that sticks out between the reflector and head in such a way that a clip could be indexed/keyed into them and just be limited by the thickness of said part? Being at work and doing something that leaves you occupied but not busy isn't helpful, i'll submit a rough sketch as soon as i'm able to.
 
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You'll have to excuse the extremely crude sketch and the exaggerated dimensions on parts, but having experience with machining and prototyping i hope you'll see where i'm coming from, at least until i get hold of solidworks. Any kind of system to just use as a key or index for holding a clip in place would work, it wouldn't need to be more intrusive than a few notches or even some flat surfaces. Since people are already revving up their dremels it wouldn't be too hard for them to modify clips to fit that, alternatively that people just do this to their own reflectors if they aren't comfortable with the over/under reflector solution.
 
Dicaeopolis said:
I have noticed that it will turn on when it is just sitting by itself. ... I was thinking about just going back to CR123, unless someone knows what is happening.

A light that turns on by itself sounds like a switch issue, not a battery issue... I would replace the switch, not the battery.

Suggest you contact HDS for service.
 
Hogo, i've been reading through a lot of the stuff regarding clips etc. on rotaries and their placement with the conclusion that you'd sooner get an honest politician than get the clip holes back on the main body. Henry seems to likewise be equally unhappy with people putting it under/over the reflector since that compromises the beam/water ingress security. All that being said, what would Henry's take be on making cutouts in the part of the reflector that sticks out between the reflector and head in such a way that a clip could be indexed/keyed into them and just be limited by the thickness of said part? Being at work and doing something that leaves you occupied but not busy isn't helpful, i'll submit a rough sketch as soon as i'm able to.
Last time I checked, the material is still there for the holes to be drilled into. Shelf exists .41" back from edge of tube with plenty of meat to drill/tap 4-40 screw threads into. I've done this on several lights.
 
We won't be doing anything new clip wise with the current light. We are still in discussions on the best course of action with the next one (don't hold your breath waiting for it).
If someone wants to come up with something and it meets or exceeds HDS standards (like the HDSRB project Simon did, or the bezels made by My Little CNC Shop), we will wholeheartedly support it and help in whatever way we can... it is a business opportunity for someone.
 
The best solution for the rotary is no clip. I'm a huge clip guy and even with a clip the rotary is just easier to use with no clip. I have zero issues pocket carrying a rotary even with the 18650 body. Try it for a few days it's not bad.
 
I run clips on my rotaries under the bezel. I tested one by dropping into the deep end of the pool for 30min. No issues and that was good enough for me. Way better than without clip IMO.
 
A clip keeps it from rolling on a flat surface. But I like it clipless for holding and pocketing. Maybe the new design will have something else for roll prevention.
 
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