HDS Systems EDC # 16

[CarpentryHero]

I am looking to get my first HDS and had a few concerns I wondered if ya'll could help me with to save my eyes from this monster thread in just 4-5 months. lol...

Are the flush buttons still cracking or has he addressed that?
Will they tail stand solidly?
Are the 200l rotaries known to have poorer tint or beam quality than the 200l clickies or is it a GD vs. XP-G issue?
Just how cool do the 200l models tend to run?
What are my odds of getting an off center emitter and what is involved in getting it corrected if I do?
Are there any downsides to the rotary models like lesser runtime?
If I were to order now, what would be my approximate wait and where should I order from?

Thanks!

Look for them in stock somewhere as he's filling old orders first. read the whole thread there's lots of good info

 

[Jackyl]

Thanks guys, I will tear into this one, but not about to work back through #15, etc.

 

[CarpentryHero]

Yeah, 39 pages should be lots

 

[Jackyl]

Damn, my eyes are tired...lol.

Looks like they are just starting to trickle out again...great news.

Question: I have read time and time again that the anodizing is like a DEEP grey, but to me they all appear more black. Someone posted a pic a few pages back showing old, more recent, and most recent anodizing. It looks to be like the current anodizer is trying to go black, but "falling short" and they appear more purple as so often happens with AR parts when stuff gets rushed or shortcut for whatever reason. Then again, sometimes it's just in the pic, but since they are all side-by-side it looks like they may have a purple tint to them. Does anyone know if this is the case?

I also didn't catch this one...are the flush switch boots end user replaceable?

 

[CarpentryHero]

Damn, my eyes are tired...lol.

Looks like they are just starting to trickle out again...great news.

Question: I have read time and time again that the anodizing is like a DEEP grey, but to me they all appear more black. Someone posted a pic a few pages back showing old, more recent, and most recent anodizing. It looks to be like the current anodizer is trying to go black, but "falling short" and they appear more purple as so often happens with AR parts when stuff gets rushed or shortcut for whatever reason. Then again, sometimes it's just in the pic, but since they are all side-by-side it looks like they may have a purple tint to them. Does anyone know if this is the case?

I also didn't catch this one...are the flush switch boots end user replaceable?

I think you can replace the tailcaps in all but the Rotary. All three of my hds are acme threads and they are black
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j389/carpentrygod/e9114be8.jpg

The knurling looks grey but it's black too just appears shiny and appears lighter
That's my 120e next to the 200rotary


Your image is huge replaced with a link.
See Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels. - Norm

 

[eh4]

Gawd, I hope it's not the Anodizing that's been the hold up... I could not care less so long as there is so durable finish. I know I might be in a minority.

 

[dajab77]

Lots of good questions. Never thought of them. When I got my first HDS EDC 140....I just bought it. Now I have a rotary 200 and a 170 tactical. Like them all.

 

[Jackyl]

Thanks for the replies.

Are those from the new contractor batch or earlier runs?

You can NOT replace the switch boot on the rotaries? If that is the case, AND they tend to crack after a few weeks / months depending on usage...then I might have to take a more serious look at the V10R Ti+. Maybe I read TOO many pages. :/

 

[CarpentryHero]

I've yet to hear about one cracking, I've only had HDS lights since January though.

 

[mrlysle]

My HDS lights have flush caps on them all. Including the rotary. No issues whatsoever. My 170t is about 1 1/2 years old. Not sure where you heard about the tailcap buttons cracking. You could replace a button on a clicky, but has been said, the rotary should probably go to Henry. I'm sure he would fix it, and probably at no charge to the customer.

 

[Snareman]

Thanks for the replies.

Are those from the new contractor batch or earlier runs?

You can NOT replace the switch boot on the rotaries? If that is the case, AND they tend to crack after a few weeks / months depending on usage...then I might have to take a more serious look at the V10R Ti+. Maybe I read TOO many pages. :/

Slightly OT, but to respond -- The new V11R is much better than the V10R. I should have a video review of it uploaded in a few hours. I'll start a thread for it when I do.

 

[thaugen]

I just ordered an HDS 120 Executive from Battery Station to tide me over until my HDS Rotary High CRI arrives from Henry. Good to see some HDS lights are making it into the dealers hands again.

 

[logikal16]

I just ordered an HDS 120 Executive from Battery Station to tide me over until my HDS Rotary High CRI arrives from Henry. Good to see some HDS lights are making it into the dealers hands again.

Are the 120E's actually in stock at Battery Station, or are they still on backorder?

 

[CarpentryHero]

I heard they were back in stock at BatteryStation (except hi cri)


Edit: you found the post, I'd email batteryStation before ordering

 

[John_Galt]

Well, I have an update on the status of my personal collection: it has just grown by 2 lights and three battery compartments.

As I've often posted, I purchased a Ra Clicky 140n about two years ago. It replaced an older Gen. HDS EDC 42XR [with Arc 4+ clip and SSC P4]. IT has been my steadfast companion and EDC, in activities ranging from reading books, taking out the trash, to camping, hiking, swimming... And has never had so much as a hiccup through all my abuse. I recently had Milkyspit modify it with a 5000k Cree XP-E [rather than XP-G, I like the tight beam of the Osram GD].

Via PM over int he marketplace, I arranged the purchase of two HDS heads, a 100 HCRI and a 170n, as well as a 17670, CR123 and much vaunted 2xAA battery compartments. I just recieeved these today, and, as usual, I am amazed at the fit and finish of the lights and battery tubes. Truly stand-up work, Henry.

First impressions:
100HCRI head: Beautiful beam. I can understand why these are so sought after. It may be "only" 100 lumens, but they are the nicest, deepest, clearest lumens I've had the pleasure to use. The SSC P4 has a very white hotspot, which fades softly into the spill beam with a golden, sunset colored ring of light. Absolutely beautiful. The hotspot has reasonable punch, but the spill evenly and gently illuminates everything else within reach.

170 head: Much like my 140 [with Osram GD], tight, punchy hotspot with much less intense spill. Hotspot still has a very nice transition beam [from the center of the hotspot to the spill beam]. This one appears white, a little colder than the XP-E in my 140n, without a serious yellow or green overcast, as mine had.

17670 body, 123 and 2xAA. Well made. Slight visual differences in ano and knurling (as compared to the ano and knurling on the head and battery compartment of my 140n). Slightly more, well, slippery feeling. Biggest differences otherwise? Both heads have a higher serial # than my 140 does, and each tailcap uses a different type of rubber switch cover. IIRC, it's the same type as on the older EDC series lights, and not the seemingly heavier "rubber" boot of my 140n. Each has minimal "bump." Would probably tailstand quite well in comparison to mine [I don't do that, so it's not a problem either way for me].

Also, the switch itself is the same as the switch as in my 140n's battery compartment, but each of these also has a small amount of clear epoxy/resin surrounding the switch and fastening it to the PCB it is on. That is my one apparent "flaw" of my older 140n. I was always a bit concerned about horizontal shock breaking one or more of the legs of the switch. The resin appears to resolve this problem.

The 2xAA battery compartment seems to work well. Threads match, switching works. However, with just a cursory moment of use, it appears that this is a case of the head being "so smart, it's stupid." I popped two fresh Li primaries into it, and it appears that their higher initial voltage tricks the head into thinking it is a partially discharged Li-ion battery. It starts out momentarily at maximum [if that mode is selected], then it appears that the current draw drops the voltage quickly enough that the head believes the "Li-ion" cells to be discharged, and begins blinking down through the levels of output, much as it would with a dead battery. I am going to play with it more, but I doubt that Ni-MH will cause the same problem.
Working from memory, this would not have been a problem for a EDC series or Novatac light, as the user must "tell" the light that it is loaded with a Li-ion, and must protect it. Perhaps if Henry has plans for 2xAA battery compartments in the future [fingers crossed, prayers sent] he could install another programming sub-condition into the options menu to tell the light to momentarily ignore the higher initial voltage, and thus prevent the light from being confused between a pair of Lithium primaries, and a Li-ion cell?

Otherwise, all is well. Loving the lights and hoping to be able to post some pics.

----
On another topic, ie: the cracking boot covers.

My older 140n's boot cover is made of a thicker/heavier rubber material. It has suffereda large amount of surface cracking, primarily, I believe from using my fingernail to press ont he boot cover, but these are merely surface cracks. They seem to have come to a certain point, and are continuing no further. Just to alleviate any and all concerns about potential future troubles. Also, the different/older type of polymer-like switch boot I mentioned on each of my new battery compartments: As stated, I had an older HDS EDC series EDC B42XR with the same type of switch boot. It suffered no cracks, even though I thoroughly "abused" that light in the period I owned it, and had none when I received it [at which point it had seen use for several years previous].

 

[derfyled]

The 2xAA battery compartment seems to work well. Threads match, switching works. However, with just a cursory moment of use, it appears that this is a case of the head being "so smart, it's stupid." I popped two fresh Li primaries into it, and it appears that their higher initial voltage tricks the head into thinking it is a partially discharged Li-ion battery. It starts out momentarily at maximum [if that mode is selected], then it appears that the current draw drops the voltage quickly enough that the head believes the "Li-ion" cells to be discharged, and begins blinking down through the levels of output, much as it would with a dead battery. I am going to play with it more, but I doubt that Ni-MH will cause the same problem.
Working from memory, this would not have been a problem for a EDC series or Novatac light, as the user must "tell" the light that it is loaded with a Li-ion, and must protect it. Perhaps if Henry has plans for 2xAA battery compartments in the future [fingers crossed, prayers sent] he could install another programming sub-condition into the options menu to tell the light to momentarily ignore the higher initial voltage, and thus prevent the light from being confused between a pair of Lithium primaries, and a Li-ion cell?

My 2 x AA tube does the same thing with lithium energizer. The combined voltage of 2 L91 is around 3,4v so it does trigger the overdischarge protection. That's why I only use NIMH, with their lower voltage, the light acts like if a primary lithium CR123 is used. Amazing runtime with two 2700 mAh...

Question: on my 2x AA, I can put a tactical tailcap without any problem but the flush one from that tube can't be put on a CR123 tube or a 17670 tube, it seems like the thread might be a little bit tighter than the other one. Same thing with your ?

The older EDC series was doing the same thing with 2 x L91. The Novatac acts differently since like you say, you have to ''tell'' the light what type of cell is used.

 

[CarpentryHero]

Thanks John Galt, and wow you got an awesome collection :thumbsup:

 

[Jackyl]

My HDS lights have flush caps on them all. Including the rotary. No issues whatsoever. My 170t is about 1 1/2 years old. Not sure where you heard about the tailcap buttons cracking. You could replace a button on a clicky, but has been said, the rotary should probably go to Henry. I'm sure he would fix it, and probably at no charge to the customer.

Starting here and on down. I didn't click over to the next page though.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...EDC)-Part-10&p=3505487&viewfull=1#post3505487

Seems as recently as mid 2010 it was still an issue. Maybe they are different now. I wish the flush boots were textured as the tactical boots are. The smooth ones just look cheap to me, especially when they start cracking.

 

[John_Galt]

A quick update to my earlier comments, re: the 2xAA tube with Lithium primaries. I tried this with several fresh pairs, and will keep updating after some rest periods, but after running the light on maximum for a few moments [about 5 minutes continuously], it appears the voltage of the cells has fallen below the threshold of what the driver considers a depleted Li-ion, and no longer steps down through the outputs. Gonna give each pair an hour or two rest, and try again. I assume after that period of time, that the cell voltage will have recovered sufficiently to be above Li-ion threshold, and I'll have to do the same thing again [namely run on full power to drop cell voltage].

Other impressions: we all know the heft of the lights with the 1x123 battery compartment. Witht he 2xAA compartment, it feels likeyou're holding a piece of bar stock. Very, very nice in the hands. I'd have no problems using it as a hammer now, lol.

 

[LauraQ]

Thanks to Battery Station I am now the proud owner of my first HDS flashlight, a 120E! It's beautiful. I installed the clip, but haven't decided if I like it that way or not. So, the customization begins!