HDS Systems EDC # 19

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bigfoot

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Thinking about the Rotary Tactical 250. Can anyone comment about how the tint is on the 250 lumen models, or better yet, show any beamshots? Per the HDS website, it looks like it's a cool white XP-G2 emitter, at 6200K and 72 CRI.

Specs on paper are one thing, but I'm wondering how it is in real life. Just curious if it has anything like a blue or purplish cast to it, or if it's somewhat neutral. Are reds and yellows totally washed out in use? How about browns and greens outdoors?

When I think of the old SureFire P60L LED drop-ins / 6PL / G2L lights, now those beams seemed very blue in use. But that was years ago and a technology has come a long ways. :)
 

jimmy1970

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I've replaced the tailcap rubbers on all my HDS Clickys (both raised and flat) due to cracking. It's seems they crack due to age, not usage (In my case anyway). It's an easy task for my lights as I'm not a Rotary light owner.

I can understand Rotary owners being upset with cracked rubbers when the switch is such a pain to dismantle.

I've noticed that the last batch of tailcap rubbers Henry sent me some time ago haven't cracked so maybe he's changed vendors!?

I can't fault these HDS lights otherwise - fantastic design and very reliable. Even my latest Clicky (my EDC) is now an oldie SN 22267 200lm model and I see no real reason to update as it still does its' job so well.

James.... :)
 
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Pöbel

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Had that problem twice, has never happend again for the last years. Henry sent me new rubber boots to replace. Dunno what caused it, but its not an issure any more.
 

adnj

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I spend a lot of time in the tropics. I have found that some elastomers used in my gear (switch boots, o-rings, elastic retainers, synthetic coatings, etc.) degrade more rapidly in the year-round air conditioned storage near the equator than in the Midwest. The same holds true for resins, glues and even the soles of shoes.

The switch boots could be degrading because of atmospheric moisture, salinity or even pollution. Conditions that make you use a certain rubber compound in one area can cause it to fail prematurely in another.
 

NutSAK

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The switch boots could be degrading because of atmospheric moisture, salinity or even pollution. Conditions that make you use a certain rubber compound in one area can cause it to fail prematurely in another.

True. Or, they could be degrading due to a myriad of other reasons. I live in a relatively sparsely populated area in the midwest. The humidity where the light is stored stays between 30-50% year-round. There are no salinity or pollution issues here, so I'd say your guess is as good as mine.

Had that problem twice, has never happend again for the last years. Henry sent me new rubber boots to replace. Dunno what caused it, but its not an issure any more.

It's not an issue on your light(s), you mean? The boot that I installed most recently has lasted longer than those that I replaced also--now for a couple of years. However, I wouldn't assume that it's no longer an issue.
 
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thermal guy

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An entire page of posts about rubber boot switches. LOL god I misses this place. 😭
 

the0dore3524

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Thinking about the Rotary Tactical 250. Can anyone comment about how the tint is on the 250 lumen models, or better yet, show any beamshots? Per the HDS website, it looks like it's a cool white XP-G2 emitter, at 6200K and 72 CRI.

Specs on paper are one thing, but I'm wondering how it is in real life. Just curious if it has anything like a blue or purplish cast to it, or if it's somewhat neutral. Are reds and yellows totally washed out in use? How about browns and greens outdoors?

When I think of the old SureFire P60L LED drop-ins / 6PL / G2L lights, now those beams seemed very blue in use. But that was years ago and a technology has come a long ways. :)

Here is what it looks like on my 250 Executive:

https://imgur.com/a/X4qCE

The camera on my phone doesn't really do the beam justice...the hotspot is actually quite a bit wider in person than the picture shows. The beam is a very pleasant white. Shining it on my wall, it's easy to tell that the wall is yellow...

Something to finally switch up the talk of boots lol
 
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Pöbel

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True. Or, they could be degrading due to a myriad of other reasons. I live in a relatively sparsely populated area in the midwest. The humidity where the light is stored stays between 30-50% year-round. There are no salinity or pollution issues here, so I'd say your guess is as good as mine.



It's not an issue on your light(s), you mean? The boot that I installed most recently has lasted longer than those that I replaced also--now for a couple of years. However, I wouldn't assume that it's no longer an issue.

Yes,
on my lights its not an issue any longer.
 

wimmer21

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Boing!!!

Custom EDC Rotary
Description: rotary, Hcri 200 lm, sapphire, sr, svr bzl, blk bdy, 123, flush btn, no clip


Is there some kind of initiation period or am I automatically in the club? ;-)
 

emarkd

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Boing!!!

Custom EDC Rotary
Description: rotary, Hcri 200 lm, sapphire, sr, svr bzl, blk bdy, 123, flush btn, no clip


Is there some kind of initiation period or am I automatically in the club? ;-)
Some of us would say that the real "trial by fire" to join this club is the agonizing wait for your HDS to arrive. Hope yours come quickly, and welcome to the club!
 

ven

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Some of us would say that the real "trial by fire" to join this club is the agonizing wait for your HDS to arrive. Hope yours come quickly, and welcome to the club!


+1

So if it arrives in a week or 2, you must put away without looking or fondling it for minimum of 6 months:poke: Then part of the club...................j/k

Congrats, i will guarantee you wont be able to put it down................i know you like a play during the adverts:naughty: this will be fondled right through!!! Can not put it down..........
200lm imo is enough and sometimes too much due to the reflector design/depth which pack's a small punch.
 

thermal guy

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+1

So if it arrives in a week or 2, you must put away without looking or fondling it for minimum of 6 months:poke: Then part of the club...................j/k

Congrats, i will guarantee you wont be able to put it down................i know you like a play during the adverts:naughty: this will be fondled right through!!! Can not put it down..........
200lm imo is enough and sometimes too much due to the reflector design/depth which pack's a small punch.

😂 Plus 100 on that.
 

the.Mtn.Man

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Oct 3, 2008
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I've replaced the tailcap rubbers on all my HDS Clickys (both raised and flat) due to cracking. It's seems they crack due to age, not usage (In my case anyway). It's an easy task for my lights as I'm not a Rotary light owner.

I can understand Rotary owners being upset with cracked rubbers when the switch is such a pain to dismantle.

I've noticed that the last batch of tailcap rubbers Henry sent me some time ago haven't cracked so maybe he's changed vendors!?

I can't fault these HDS lights otherwise - fantastic design and very reliable. Even my latest Clicky (my EDC) is now an oldie SN 22267 200lm model and I see no real reason to update as it still does its' job so well.

James.... :)
I have a couple of Rotaries, several years old, used and abused, and the rubber boots seem to be holding up fine. I prefer raised boots as opposed to the flush design, so I don't know if that makes a difference.
 

wimmer21

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Thanks emarked and Ven. Just got an email from Henry saying it should arrive within 2 weeks. So is that 6 months from arrival that I have to wait to use it, or did the clock start last night when I placed the order?
 
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