Edit: Just saw it. Manufacturer rated at 250 lumens with 1000mA output (3v to 8.4v).
The R2 driven at 1000mA is brighter then the M30 driven at 1.1-1.2amp draw???????????
Is this the same R2 that DX sells for $12.90
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.14442
I have that R2 for $12.90 and it didn't seem brighter than the M60. It does have great throw and for the money it can't be beat.
Also, Where can I get a P60 drop-in R2 from DX driven at 1.4amp draw???????? If I have to purchase the whole light thats fine, as long as the LED is P60 compatible.
Disregard DX published Lumen specs, they are meaningless for the most part. Your M30/60 emits more lumens than either 11836 or 14442, although it might not be
perceived as such due to the throwey nature of each DX module. FWIW 14442 only draws .65A on high from RCR123 cells, so I don't think it really drives the emitter that hard (I could be wrong though).
DX:18843 I think uses the same DC-DC circuit as 11836, but specs a WC tint for the emitter, so you're doing less tint lotto buying 18843.
DX does not sell a 1.4A module... AFAIK. You'd have to go the DIY route with
DX:1886
DX:15943 (note its not a pale-white WC tint, and the star will not drop into the DX pill, you'll have to unmount the emitter and reflow it onto a 14-16mm slug)
DX:3257
DX:5955
DX:5937
I think the easiest thing to do is use DX:14442 and do a driver swap with 1886, its not hard to remove the DC-DC board with an ~80 watt iron, some braid and solder-vac. The 14442 I have uses a very white tint, and IMHO would be a good starting point. I am not sure what adhesive DX uses to attach the emitter heatsink to the brass, but it has a higher melting point than the solder they use, so I don't think you need to worry about damaging it from that standpoint.
PM me if you wanted to split an order of 1886. I think they are build to order, so we'd be on a waiting list till' the batch build is released.
:thumbsup:
**edit** OOps sorry OP, this is WAAAAY off topic... Let me know and I will edit out this comment.