how to resolve heatsinking for the MC-E buld flashlight
- Thread starter jessy
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Marduke
Flashaholic
Easy, use a large heatsink...
There is no heatsink "problem", just requirements.
There is no heatsink "problem", just requirements.
Illum
Flashaholic
oo:Heatsink originally allows automated cooling using passive convection...hence the fins on aluminum extrusions, but being inside a flashlight it acts as a storage tank for heat...so the size of the "storage tank" must be taken into consideration and balanced with the time your going to run your light for to keep the LED temperature at a specified value
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You cannot at this time make that argument. He has given us absolutely nothing upon which to build a recommendation. Most likely the complete opposite is true if he is upgrading from an XR-E or the like. At the same current the MC-E would run much cooler and need less heatsink. But then again we don't know if he is even doing that.increase heatsink volume or decrease your driving current...those are the only opinions unless you plan on using the MCE in a driving light
kramer5150
Flashaholic
Very general - vague question so I am going to give you general / vague answers.
Bigger thicker heavier host
Lower drive current
Maximize material thermal conduction path from LED to host body.
Choose thermally conductive and emissive material for host. Stainless steel, Titanium and brass are some of the worst thermal conductive/emissive materials to use. Copper, Gold and aluminum are 3 of the best.
**edit**
Wait a minute... whats the context of your question? Are you talking about a thermal problem with a specific light? or just MC-E heat conduction problems in general?
Bigger thicker heavier host
Lower drive current
Maximize material thermal conduction path from LED to host body.
Choose thermally conductive and emissive material for host. Stainless steel, Titanium and brass are some of the worst thermal conductive/emissive materials to use. Copper, Gold and aluminum are 3 of the best.
**edit**
Wait a minute... whats the context of your question? Are you talking about a thermal problem with a specific light? or just MC-E heat conduction problems in general?
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ANY led:
good placing on mounting plate,
mounting plate as thick as possible (tradeoff: weight, size in light)
mounting plate fit into housing with as much force and surface possible (press-in, threads, ...)
housing from metal to work as a "heatsink" giving the heat away to surrounding air and/or hand gripping the light.
... the more heat produced by the led, the thicker the mounting plate + the bigger the light
(example: a 1*CR123 light with single emitter led, powered at max current to led, gets too hot to handle in short time. The same sized light, but with a quad-led will get burning hot within minutes
when the quad could be powered with full current)
good placing on mounting plate,
mounting plate as thick as possible (tradeoff: weight, size in light)
mounting plate fit into housing with as much force and surface possible (press-in, threads, ...)
housing from metal to work as a "heatsink" giving the heat away to surrounding air and/or hand gripping the light.
... the more heat produced by the led, the thicker the mounting plate + the bigger the light
(example: a 1*CR123 light with single emitter led, powered at max current to led, gets too hot to handle in short time. The same sized light, but with a quad-led will get burning hot within minutes
when the quad could be powered with full current)
