How to solve problem with Surefire E2e+DX RCRs

[cykoed]

Hi,

I changed the bulb on my SF E2e to the EO-E2R from lumensfactory, and bought Ultrafire and Trustfire RCRs from DX (Dealextreme). When I first loaded the RCRs into the E2e, the E2e worked perfectly fine! Very happy...but that quickly changed..sigh!

Now, for whatever reason after taking each set out and loading them in again, my torch simply wouldn't light up with the RCRs! The bulb is fine, and on CR123s there's no problem.

Also, 1xCR123 on the bottom mixed with 1xRCR on the top (ie next to the head), and the torch works...but not the otherway around! (Don't worry, I don't mix CR123s and RCRs for use, it was just done to try to isolate the problem...)

So there's some problem with using the DX RCRs either in tandem, OR when RCRs are loaded the bottom against the spring. So there's some problem when the RCR is at the bottom position, and I simply can't figure out why!

What I need to do to make my E2e work on 2xRCRs (Trustfire or Ultrafires from DX)?

Any advice much appreciated!!

Cheers

 

[WildChild]

Two known problems with DX RCR123A:
1 - They can't handle high load and it's possible the EO-E2R try to pull too much current for them, tripping the protection.
2 - The protection circuit is WEAK... It often fails on those.

This is what you get by trying to save too much. Get a few AW RCR123A and you'll be set for a while. I have this setup in an E2D and I like it. I also use the TL-3 bulb in the E2D with a bi-pin adapter from fivemega and it pulls more current. DX batteries would never work on that setup!

 

[EV_007]

AWs will light the LF EO-2R. Even the protected ones lit mine up.

 

[mdocod]

it could be the PCBs limiting current as wildchild suggested, but I think most of those cells have reasonably high limits set (unsure about this), try with 2 RCR123 again and quickly "bump" the switch in quick succession a few times, if you are able to get it to light up, then it's the protection, but I suspect something else may be going on.

It has been reported many times that many of these cheaper RCR123s are longer than they are supposed to be. enough to cause problems in some lights. This is worth investigation.....

I'm wondering if the button top on the RCR123s is not exposed enough to make a reliable connection, investigate this as well.

Eric

 

[WildChild]

it could be the PCBs limiting current as wildchild suggested, but I think most of those cells have reasonably high limits set (unsure about this), try with 2 RCR123 again and quickly "bump" the switch in quick succession a few times, if you are able to get it to light up, then it's the protection, but I suspect something else may be going on.

It has been reported many times that many of these cheaper RCR123s are longer than they are supposed to be. enough to cause problems in some lights. This is worth investigation.....

I'm wondering if the button top on the RCR123s is not exposed enough to make a reliable connection, investigate this as well.

Eric

The button top won't be a problem. The LF lamp assembly has a solder blob and it will touch for sure the battery contact.

 

[nzgunnie]

The button top won't be a problem. The LF lamp assembly has a solder blob and it will touch for sure the battery contact.

Yes, but the problem is reported happening when the DX cell is at the bottom, so the LF lamp spring is irrelevant. However the button top is very relevant if it needs to make contact with the -ve of the battery above it. This may be a valid suggestion to the cause of the problem.

 

[FlashKat]

mdocod may be correct about the cells being too long. If the head or tailcap does not get screwed down completely the connection is not there and the light will not work. I just checked my E2E.
Are you using protected RCR123 cells? Compare the length side by side of the CR123 and RCR123 cells.

It has been reported many times that many of these cheaper RCR123s are longer than they are supposed to be. enough to cause problems in some lights. This is worth investigation.....
Eric

 

[cykoed]

yes there are protected RCRs...and on comparison to a cr123, the rcrs are a few mm longer.

what options do i have (apart from buying better rcrs the next time)?

 

[WildChild]

Yes, but the problem is reported happening when the DX cell is at the bottom, so the LF lamp spring is irrelevant. However the button top is very relevant if it needs to make contact with the -ve of the battery above it. This may be a valid suggestion to the cause of the problem.

Oh sorry! I understand now the button problem!

yes there are protected RCRs...and on comparison to a cr123, the rcrs are a few mm longer.

what options do i have (apart from buying better rcrs the next time)?

Do you have a multimeter? Try stacking them and check if you read a voltage value. If there is no, the button top of one cell isn't making contact with the negative end of the other. Try again by swapping cells order.

 

[lctorana]

I have an E1e, an E2e and a Benno, with HO and EO lamps, and in each case, I can get light from AW protected 16340, unprotected Jaycar 16340, and the "880mAh" Ultrafire. But the "1000mAh" Ultrafire will not work in any of these - singly or in combination with any other cell. The protection circuit is way too sensitive.

It's happy on LED with a 1A draw, though.

 

[WildChild]

I have an E1e, an E2e and a Benno, with HO and EO lamps, and in each case, I can get light from AW protected 16340, unprotected Jaycar 16340, and the "880mAh" Ultrafire. But the "1000mAh" Ultrafire will not work in any of these - singly or in combination with any other cell. The protection circuit is way too sensitive.

It's happy on LED with a 1A draw, though.

The EO-E2R pulls around 850 mA, but the initial draw probably trips the circuit!

 

[FlashKat]

To be safe I suggest buying AW R123A batteries, and make it a lesson learned. http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=180449
Many of us have gone through the trial and error stages, but we still have fun. I have so many different batteries that I have tried over the years, but I still end up trying more.

yes there are protected RCRs...and on comparison to a cr123, the rcrs are a few mm longer.

what options do i have (apart from buying better rcrs the next time)?

 

[Patriot]

To be safe I suggest buying AW R123A batteries, and make it a lesson learned. http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=180449
Many of us have gone through the trial and error stages, but we still have fun. I have so many different batteries that I have tried over the years, but I still end up trying more.

+1 to what FlashKat said. Many of us have experienced the headache of junk batteries.

I'm using the same lamp in a VG body with E2e head and AW's, which work perfectly. I also tried them in a Surefire body with perfect results.

 

[lctorana]

The EO-E2R pulls around 850 mA, but the initial draw probably trips the circuit!

Yes, sorry - I shouldn't have mentioned the E2e. I was actually thinking about the HO-9 in the G2 or Benno, or the E0-E1R in the E1e.

 

[cykoed]

i loaded the 2 RCRs again last night, and my e2e worked brilliantly! yay!

but i still can't figure out what i did differently to make them work! boo....