I have to Program my Flashlight?

[NotSoBrightBob]

New to the forum but been a flashaholic for several years. I've collected my share of SF, Streamlight and Pelicans but this forum has opened up so many more opportunities for my wallet. I thank you.

One of my most recent purchases is a NovaTac 120T which has gotten some positive reviews. I love the light but what I'm having trouble with is the mode control design.

My favorite right now is my SF A2. With it's two modes I push the button in a little and I get the LED dim mode, push the button all the way in and I get bright light. Very easy.

My NovaTac is clicks and double clicks, push and hold, etc… to get to the dim light and strobe.

Granted I'm not in LE and I'm not confronted regularly where I need the strobe but if I did I'm not sure I could get the controls right in an adrenaline rushed mode.

I guess the easy answer is carry one light all the time and you memorize the controls but I like my variety.

Am I just dumb and should I go back to the 6D cell maglite or do others have similar problems?

Any tips or education would be appreciated.

Bob

 

[Illum]

a primary reason why I am repelled by the HDS/Novatac lights is the need for it to be programmed to the features I want it to have... I don't want a light to support my needs when I am used to adapting my needs to the performance of lights...

any consumer electronics [computers excluded] with "memory function" bugs me...alarm clocks included, and mine is, and still is, mechanical:nana:

 

[bluecrow76]

Hey Bob,

I just got my first Novatac 120P last week. I was a little disappointed with it at first, mainly because I was used to brighter EDC lights. A week later and I am loving. Free lumens on RCR123a batteries, I've got it setup in a way that is perfect for me and its got rediculous runtime for the next hurricane!

The 120T that you have requires no programming and in fact is not programmable. The 120T has fixed light levels of 120 lumens, 10 lumens and .3 lumens, as well as a disorienting strobe. When you first turn on its in the 120 lumen mode. Two clicks gets you to 10 lumens. Continue double clicking toggles you between 120 lumens and 10 lumens. Three clicks gets you to 0.3 lumens, which I have fallen in love with for night use around the house.

Hope that helps and I hope the light works out for you!

 

[matrixshaman]

Just use it. Use it a lot and it will become second nature in no time.
Congrats on picking one of Henry's fine designs and :welcome:

 

[gottawearshades]

I know this poor, dead horse has been beaten many a time, but the 120P really is simple to use. You can use it without programming it, and it is very easy to program.

 

[NotSoBrightBob]

Thanks everyone. "Programming" was the wrong word I used. It just seems to me the clicking to get to the low output is confusing.

What's wrong with 1 click super bright, 2 clicks bringht, 3 clicks stobe.

I am carrying it more and more so maybe I will get used to it.

Thanks again for the input everyone

Bob

 

[1dash1]

NotSoBrightBob:

The following demo might be of some assistance:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3L20wCnsU68

Note: The one executable operation that the video does not cover is the so-called "Click-Press" to turn on the constant strobe mode. It's similar to the double-click, except the second click is held down a little longer (say a half-second or so). Perhaps it would be less confusing if the instructions called it a "Click-and-then-Press".


To summarize:

• Single click _ ON / OFF
• Double click _ Switch modes between "high" (120 lumens) and "low" (10 lumens)
• Triple click _ Superlow (0.3 lumens)
• Constant press _ Momentary strobe (returns to previous mode upon release)
• Click-press _ Constant strobe

And there is no programming or memory. After turning the flashlight off, the 120T will always turn on in the high mode.


P.S. I suggest that you practice the first two commands thoroughly (so that you understand exactly what the flashlight is doing), before proceeding to the triple-click, constant press, or click-press commands.

The single click is a toggle - it will flip you back and forth between two modes: "on" and "off". The double-click is a toggle, too.

The triple-click is not a toggle, it will only take you to "superlow". The click-press is not a toggle, it will only take you to "strobe".

And the constant press command is a momentary, it will do one thing so long as you're holding the button down and stops doing that as soon as you release it.

 

[Patriot]

Just use it. Use it a lot and it will become second nature in no time.

+1 to that. The 120T is considered to be very basic and simple compared to many other designs and even the 120P. An evening of watching some TV with the light in your had is the best way to program "yourself" on how to use it. It will be an extension of your brain rather quickly.

 

[tx101]

+1 to that. The 120T is considered to be very basic and simple compared to many other designs and even the 120P. An evening of watching some TV with the light in your had is the best way to program "yourself" on how to use it. It will be an extension of your brain rather quickly.

LOL... funny you should mention that, but that is exactly what I did with my new 120P plus learning how to program it took me two days :shakehead

 

[1dash1]

NotSoBrightBob:

BTW, the settings for the 120T are set up for tactical use.
- Max output when turned on.
- A secondary setting (10 lumens) pegged at the low end of the general use output spectrum to maximize runtimes.
- A disorienting strobe, immediately available at the press of a button.
- A very low setting (0.3 lumens) for night op's or survival mode.

I'd say that most people would be better off with the 120E.
- Relatively longrunning general output setting (10 lumens) when turned on.
- A secondary mode (42 lumens) still geared toward general illumination tasks.
- Max output immediately available at the press of a button.
- Emergency strobe available as the least used mode (triple click).

IMO, Novatac did a very good job of tailoring these two versions to suit the target markets: Tactical use and Everyday use.

Personally, I preferred 10/42/120/0.3 lumens (not strobe) and a flashlight that could tailstand, so I bought the 120P. Coupled with an HDS extension tube, it's my favorite light!

 

[paxxus]

a primary reason why I am repelled by the HDS/Novatac lights is the need for it to be programmed to the features I want it to have... I don't want a light to support my needs when I am used to adapting my needs to the performance of lights...

:lolsign:

 

[bluecrow76]

+1 to 1dash1.

 

[Kiessling]

Bob ... welcome to CPF ! :wave:

And ... welcome to the club. You are not alone. There are others out there who think that a UI like the one of the Novatac is ridiculous and renders the light almost useless.

I am one of those flashaholics that want KISS ... "keep it super simple"

Like you said with your SF A2. That's the way a light should be. KISS.

Look around in these halls a bit and youo will discover some very cool lights that adhere to this principle. Live as a KISS-flashaholic can be very good. No need to burden your mind with a UI.

To all others who buy their Novatacs, HDs, Fenix and whatnot lights ... a heartfelt and loving ... :nana:

:wave:

bernie

 

[bluecrow76]

To all others who buy their Novatacs, HDs, Fenix and whatnot lights ... a heartfelt and loving ... :nana:

 

[tx101]

To all others who buy their Novatacs, HDs, Fenix and whatnot lights ... a heartfelt and loving ... :nana:

Bernie you forgot to mention the flupic UI .... :thinking::thinking::thinking:

 

[Secur1]

My most complicated light is the Fenix P2D cause i have to twist the bezel to get to the other set of modes.
And then there is my Draco with the Flupic which i have quit trying to figure out, i just use it at the default level of brightness i feel suitable and that's it.
I think that about sums it up for me

I want my lights to be simple too, can't be asked to teach myself new tricks...

Brightness options are nice but not at the cost of me having to spend more than 5min to figure out how to access them.

 

[NotSoBrightBob]

Thanks everyone for the input. Great community here as I learn that what my friends called me a nut for having a different light on me everyday compared to some of you I'm a mere dim lit baby.!

This is going to be fun. Now I gotta find that Malkoff website....ha

Bob

 

[bluecrow76]

This is going to be fun.

Oh... you have no idea... muahhhaaahaaahaaa!

 

[SnWnMe]

a primary reason why I am repelled by the HDS/Novatac lights is the need for it to be programmed to the features I want it to have...

Surely this post is in jest unless the poster seeks a clairvoyant light.

 

[SnWnMe]

One of my most recent purchases is a NovaTac 120T which has gotten some positive reviews. I love the light but what I'm having trouble with is the mode control design.

My favorite right now is my SF A2. With it's two modes I push the button in a little and I get the LED dim mode, push the button all the way in and I get bright light. Very easy.

My NovaTac is clicks and double clicks, push and hold, etc… to get to the dim light and strobe.

Try a Surefire E1L or a RA Twisty. Both lights have simple, fool proof UIs. The RA can also be programmed if you feel like it (but the well chosen default settings are GTG :thumbsup