Bullzeyebill
Flashaholic
I am stretching the point re calling this a mod, but it is a mod to a standard Surefire product, the KL4, commonly used as a complete light called the L4.
I have always sort of disliked the fact that the KL4 really heats up fast to the point where touching the head is very uncomfortable after a run of 10 minutes straight. Looking at this problem, I realized that I have historically melded the KL4 head with a Surefire E series body, the L4 body or an E1E or E2E body. The other day I noticed something that did not register significantly with me, there is a fairly large gap between the body and the KL4 head. The threads and O ring tighten up the head body, but there is still that obvious gap, and this gap does not allow the heat from the head to migrate well to the body. True, the heat can travel up the threads to the body, but that is not a solid connection of head and body.
This evening I pulled out one of my McGizmo Aleph bodies, a 2XCR123 body and affixed the KL4 to it. The body of the Aleph made direct metal to metal contact with the KL4!!!! I switched the light on and started counting the minutes, letting it tail stand. (E2E Defender tailcap). After letting it stand for 20 minutes I picked it up. It was not uncomfortable to hold by the head. AWESOME. Now I realize, this is subjective, and I can not find my temp probe, but believe me, I know the difference. To assure that the batteries were not not rundown, I took the KL4/Aleph, still running to my secret IS bathroom and checked the output with my lightmeter, bounce off ceiling, and output was right up there compared to my KL5 (everything is compared to my KL5).
To put it mildly, I am more than pleased (YES). I will now keep my KL4 attached to my McGizmo Aleph 2XCR123 body.
Bill
I have always sort of disliked the fact that the KL4 really heats up fast to the point where touching the head is very uncomfortable after a run of 10 minutes straight. Looking at this problem, I realized that I have historically melded the KL4 head with a Surefire E series body, the L4 body or an E1E or E2E body. The other day I noticed something that did not register significantly with me, there is a fairly large gap between the body and the KL4 head. The threads and O ring tighten up the head body, but there is still that obvious gap, and this gap does not allow the heat from the head to migrate well to the body. True, the heat can travel up the threads to the body, but that is not a solid connection of head and body.
This evening I pulled out one of my McGizmo Aleph bodies, a 2XCR123 body and affixed the KL4 to it. The body of the Aleph made direct metal to metal contact with the KL4!!!! I switched the light on and started counting the minutes, letting it tail stand. (E2E Defender tailcap). After letting it stand for 20 minutes I picked it up. It was not uncomfortable to hold by the head. AWESOME. Now I realize, this is subjective, and I can not find my temp probe, but believe me, I know the difference. To assure that the batteries were not not rundown, I took the KL4/Aleph, still running to my secret IS bathroom and checked the output with my lightmeter, bounce off ceiling, and output was right up there compared to my KL5 (everything is compared to my KL5).
To put it mildly, I am more than pleased (YES). I will now keep my KL4 attached to my McGizmo Aleph 2XCR123 body.
Bill
