kaichu dento
Flashaholic
If dat2xip's driver would work and you're willing to go with AA size, then you'd be in business with a 14500...
In search of a Surefire single-AA 2-stage clicky...
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kaichu dento
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leon2245
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that body bullseye bill describes would be perfect, if it were available. better than putting some d.i.y. parts in there.
i do see that perspective sometimes. just yesterday in reaction to a new zebralight, the "noncamping, anti-emergency, cubicle crowd" should be satisfied. and to manufacturers, their argument sounds better- if you don't need blinking modes & more levels, then just ignore them, don't unlock them, or just program them out & forget about it- vs. we don't want these modes in there at all, so no one can have them. I wouldn't mind if they were really hidden, like the models you have to click 15 times really fast to unlock- you'd never accidentally do that. but merely turning off & on once too fast, surprise strobe.
i do see that perspective sometimes. just yesterday in reaction to a new zebralight, the "noncamping, anti-emergency, cubicle crowd" should be satisfied. and to manufacturers, their argument sounds better- if you don't need blinking modes & more levels, then just ignore them, don't unlock them, or just program them out & forget about it- vs. we don't want these modes in there at all, so no one can have them. I wouldn't mind if they were really hidden, like the models you have to click 15 times really fast to unlock- you'd never accidentally do that. but merely turning off & on once too fast, surprise strobe.
No none of the available options will give you the user interface that your looking for on a Surefire body. The mod that I suggested is the only one that would work for you but I still haven't had a chance to try it I was kinda hoping red02 would try it anyway because I wouldn't be using the same kinda power source or light engine as.
Check your PM box.
red02
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I tried this with a 47ohm ratshack resistor (my lowest valued resistor) with a single AA in a DBS hosting a dereelight javelin pill and got absolutely no light. After removing the resistor the light worked normally.
There is a small problem with this mod: the resistor is difficult to insert into the tailcap and its more difficult not to crush the leg that contacts the tailcap threads as it crosses where the light's body comes into contact with it.
I'll try picking up a few resistors on the weekend and will chime in with any results as soon as they become available.
There is a small problem with this mod: the resistor is difficult to insert into the tailcap and its more difficult not to crush the leg that contacts the tailcap threads as it crosses where the light's body comes into contact with it.
I'll try picking up a few resistors on the weekend and will chime in with any results as soon as they become available.
gswitter
Flashlight Enthusiast
The OP just needs a good modder. Everything he wants is doable.
The NiteCore Extreme head is E-series threaded, and has two levels via twisting the bezel. It has a number of features the OP doesn't want, and it won't run on a single alkaline or NiMH cell, but ignore that for now. The key points are A) it's E-series compatible, and B) it has multiple contact points in the head to facilitate a mode switch.
Crack and gut the head, swap in a decent boost driver, and put a resistor between the driver and one of the contacts point. A good modder could probably even swap the base of NEx head into a Surefire head and preserve the stock look. The trickiest part would probably be sourcing a driver that can run on an alkaline cell that is compatible with the resistored low. But, again, we know there are some out there. (The driver from ARC mania's original Maxlite, for one.)
The NiteCore Extreme head is E-series threaded, and has two levels via twisting the bezel. It has a number of features the OP doesn't want, and it won't run on a single alkaline or NiMH cell, but ignore that for now. The key points are A) it's E-series compatible, and B) it has multiple contact points in the head to facilitate a mode switch.
Crack and gut the head, swap in a decent boost driver, and put a resistor between the driver and one of the contacts point. A good modder could probably even swap the base of NEx head into a Surefire head and preserve the stock look. The trickiest part would probably be sourcing a driver that can run on an alkaline cell that is compatible with the resistored low. But, again, we know there are some out there. (The driver from ARC mania's original Maxlite, for one.)
red02
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Don't know if Kuku427's name has been brought up. He's been selling Liteflux parts on MP but I ran across his thread selling E-series compatible 'towers':http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=282876. Maybe he can make one of those with another driver...
mdocod
Flashaholic
ztm,
If you can piece together someone to figure out your LED head and tail-cap issue on an E2E, I can take care of the easy part in an elegant fashion. A 2xCR123>1xAA machined delrin sleeve and spacer combo adapter with brass contacts; no problem. (rather than rolled up paper and a wad of aluminum foil right?)
Eric
If you can piece together someone to figure out your LED head and tail-cap issue on an E2E, I can take care of the easy part in an elegant fashion. A 2xCR123>1xAA machined delrin sleeve and spacer combo adapter with brass contacts; no problem. (rather than rolled up paper and a wad of aluminum foil right?)
Eric
Thanks!
Sounds like it is going to be several months according to anyone who can do anything about this so I will be sure to let you know. Appreciate it.
leon2245
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red02
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For anyone thats still interested...
Just tried a 10ohm resistor with a Deree XRE 0.9-4.2v dropin in a DBS and it works. Gets about 1-3lm max, I'll have to do a runtime test later. Regarding the tailcap mod: I tried unsuccessfully to solder a 150ohm resistor to another tailcap which shall remain nameless and had absolutely no luck. I'll leave it to someone more skilled with a soldering iron.
Just tried a 10ohm resistor with a Deree XRE 0.9-4.2v dropin in a DBS and it works. Gets about 1-3lm max, I'll have to do a runtime test later. Regarding the tailcap mod: I tried unsuccessfully to solder a 150ohm resistor to another tailcap which shall remain nameless and had absolutely no luck. I'll leave it to someone more skilled with a soldering iron.
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I haven't even tried to solder it yet. I can't figure how to fit it in there... On the regular mod the resistor fits all on one side an the place that I am wanting to run the leg to isn't working for me.
red02
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Another problem is that the body tube crushes that resistor leg or the soldered contact point since the 10ohm resistor is really big. That may be just the way I tried to solder it, if only there was a way to connect it from the back. IMO a resistor ring like the MD2 ring is really ideal, but you have build a body around it...
Just wondering if there has been any progress regarding this Surefire single AA 2-stage clicky. I've been thinking about looking for something similar and ran across this thread again. If I understand the thread correctly, the switch is the real issue as there are led/drivers, heads, bodies, etc right?
Thanks,
Rich
Thanks,
Rich
TomH
Newly Enlightened
How about the Streamlight PT 1AA? I have had this light for about 3 weeks now and absolutely love it. It is only rated at 50 lumens on high mode, but to my eyes, it is a very bright 50 lumens. The 6 lumen low mode compares favorably to my Gerber Infinity Ultra, but the Streamlight has a much greater throw.
Honestly, I'm surprised these PT lights aren't more popular with the folks here on CPF.
http://www.streamlight.com/product/product.aspx?pid=199
Honestly, I'm surprised these PT lights aren't more popular with the folks here on CPF.
http://www.streamlight.com/product/product.aspx?pid=199
I ran across the Elzetta 2 level switch looking through some Malkoff threads. One of the threads is here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=288818&highlight=elzetta+switch
and the Elzetta webpage with information is: http://www.elzetta.com/zfl-m60FAQ.htm
The Elzetta page states:
...2) Clicky Tailcap - Momentary activation is achieved by pressing the pushbutton lightly. Constant On is achieved by pressing the pushbutton firmly until it 'Clicks' (pressing firmly again will Click the Light off).
3) High/Low Tailcap - Activation is achieved exactly like the Clicky Tailcap described above in either the High or Low mode. High Output (235 Lumens) occurs when the Tailcap is rotated fully Clockwise (screwed all the way on). Low Output (~15 Lumens) occurs when the Tailcap is rotated Counter-Clockwise (unscrewed) anywhere from 1/8 to 1/2 rotation from the High position.
The thread mentions that the switch is 6P compatible. I don't know if that is acceptable or how you would adapt to the e series body mentioned previously (I think I got that right). As also mentioned in the other thread, the switch can be purchased individually for $56 dollars at:
http://www.elzetta.com/webpages/zfl-m60_parts.htm
I hope this newbie found a viable combination. I for one like the idea of combining this tail switch with the 2 stage Malkoff head switch to get 3 (or 4 with the 2 middle stages likely pretty close). I like the switch in the MD2 I recently got but it would be nice to be able to switch at the tail.
Regards,
Rich
